Best method for correcting front driveshaft

Mocho · 10-29-2009, 02:48 AM

I am about go upgrade to a 8" lift, and am trying to find out the best way to correct front driveshaft, it is fine with my current 6" but know it won't be with 8".

It seems like almost everyone is clocking their transfer case, and many needing to drop the crossmember.

I am wondering why almost no one is getting custom front driveshaft? Am I thinking something wrong wouldn't you just need to get high angle u-joints, and lengthen it a bit? I can't see it being more then like $600 from a shop, and then i'd have all new driveshaft, instead of spending like $400-500 the other way.

Thoughs?

__________________
2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods

ram tuff96 · 10-29-2009, 03:24 AM

ummm... smart thinkin dude i wonder ???

__________________
96 12v, Driftwood, all orginal47re (even the fluid and filter), 188k, 4x4, 3.54's limited slip, 285/75/16 nitto terra graplers on poished alumin 16's, starwheel tunning, k&n, stright piped out b4 rear tire!

Mega Blue · 10-31-2009, 09:33 PM

It's just a very high angle even for a set of HA joints

__________________

6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

mudslinger · 11-01-2009, 07:03 AM

The problem is that those high angle jobs aren't meant to be run on the freeway everyday. I was told that I would burn up a high angle by the shaft shop because of the full time hubs keeping the front spinning 100% of the time. They would be fine with a dynatrac kit though.

__________________
'03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

Mega Blue · 11-01-2009, 10:08 AM

Probally true.

I just thought of the high angle shaft as lift a band aid

__________________

6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

ram tuff96 · 11-01-2009, 02:01 PM

I Don"t Know About Your Guys New Trucks But The Front Drive Line Is Never Spinning Unless You In 4-wheel Drive

__________________
96 12v, Driftwood, all orginal47re (even the fluid and filter), 188k, 4x4, 3.54's limited slip, 285/75/16 nitto terra graplers on poished alumin 16's, starwheel tunning, k&n, stright piped out b4 rear tire!

Mega Blue · 11-01-2009, 04:53 PM

It spins all the time due to the non disengaging hubs

__________________

6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

Mocho · 11-01-2009, 04:56 PM

That sucks, I know I really don't want to drop my crossmember. I am willing to clock the transfer case if there isn't another option, but I think dropping the crossmember will leave me with nothing but problems.

I just liked the idea of not touching the factory geometry anymore then I have to. But I will need 4WD on the highway a lot at high speeds so I cannot have a driveshaft with any issues.

__________________
2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods

Last edited by Mocho : 11-01-2009 at 04:59 PM.

mudslinger · 11-01-2009, 05:06 PM

Take the direction that you feel comfortable with, but the cross member drop is pretty straight forward, and there isn't much to get wrong. You can index 10* without it, which should be good for 8", but if you plan to go bigger in the future, I would get the drop done with the 20* ring and never worry about it again. There is a good writeup in this forum on the ring and drop install.

__________________
'03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

mudslinger · 11-01-2009, 05:09 PM

As far as the factory geometry, that is what this is doing. The lift takes your driveline away from the factory geometry with the angle changes, the porpose of indexing is trying to put the angles back to where they were before the lift.

__________________
'03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

Mocho · 11-01-2009, 05:18 PM

I know how to drop the crossmember but I really don't want to move it from the factory location. I can't say for sure but I think doing it could land me with issues later. I have absolutely no plan of ever going more then 8" as I need my truck to tow haul etc and even 8" is getting pretty high for it. Yea I think I will just go with the 10 degree one.

__________________
2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods

***bthanks*** · 11-01-2009, 06:29 PM

How would dropping your cross member leave you with issues later? All its doing is lowerng the main support, then it just has higher blocks that the tranny bolts 2.... I dont understand why your worried about that but you want to use high angle joints? The only reason for dropping the tranny crossmember so you can clock the tcase 20* instead of 10*

__________________
2008 qcsb, southbend DD,airdog II,smarty,arson jr,afe mega cannon, SB66, boost tube, 5" tbe, BDS longarm 6" lift, helo maxx 8's w/35X13.50's
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAkfRYekA-0- 6.7 Smoke switch
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-6pZYH9pGY- Burn out!!!
www.rollinsmokediesel.com <--- Look For Black Ops Diesel!!

10-29-2009, 02:48 AM	#1 (permalink)
Mocho Cummins Nut Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 422 Thanks: 7 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts Mocho's Truck Pics	Best method for correcting front driveshaft I am about go upgrade to a 8" lift, and am trying to find out the best way to correct front driveshaft, it is fine with my current 6" but know it won't be with 8". It seems like almost everyone is clocking their transfer case, and many needing to drop the crossmember. I am wondering why almost no one is getting custom front driveshaft? Am I thinking something wrong wouldn't you just need to get high angle u-joints, and lengthen it a bit? I can't see it being more then like $600 from a shop, and then i'd have all new driveshaft, instead of spending like $400-500 the other way. Thoughs? __________________ 2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods

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10-29-2009, 03:24 AM	#2 (permalink)
ram tuff96 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: highland, ca Posts: 227 Thanks: 5 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts ram tuff96's Truck Pics	ummm... smart thinkin dude i wonder ??? __________________ 96 12v, Driftwood, all orginal47re (even the fluid and filter), 188k, 4x4, 3.54's limited slip, 285/75/16 nitto terra graplers on poished alumin 16's, starwheel tunning, k&n, stright piped out b4 rear tire!

10-31-2009, 09:33 PM	#3 (permalink)
Mega Blue Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 722 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts Mega Blue's Truck Pics	It's just a very high angle even for a set of HA joints __________________ 6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

11-01-2009, 07:03 AM	#4 (permalink)
mudslinger Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 189 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mudslinger's Truck Pics	The problem is that those high angle jobs aren't meant to be run on the freeway everyday. I was told that I would burn up a high angle by the shaft shop because of the full time hubs keeping the front spinning 100% of the time. They would be fine with a dynatrac kit though. __________________ '03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

11-01-2009, 10:08 AM	#5 (permalink)
Mega Blue Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 722 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts Mega Blue's Truck Pics	Probally true. I just thought of the high angle shaft as lift a band aid __________________ 6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

11-01-2009, 02:01 PM	#6 (permalink)
ram tuff96 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: highland, ca Posts: 227 Thanks: 5 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts ram tuff96's Truck Pics	I Don"t Know About Your Guys New Trucks But The Front Drive Line Is Never Spinning Unless You In 4-wheel Drive __________________ 96 12v, Driftwood, all orginal47re (even the fluid and filter), 188k, 4x4, 3.54's limited slip, 285/75/16 nitto terra graplers on poished alumin 16's, starwheel tunning, k&n, stright piped out b4 rear tire!

11-01-2009, 04:53 PM	#7 (permalink)
Mega Blue Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 722 Thanks: 9 Thanked 32 Times in 30 Posts Mega Blue's Truck Pics	It spins all the time due to the non disengaging hubs __________________ 6.7 Megacab, XRT175/Edge Juice W/Att, Banks CAI, 5" TBE, EGR/cooler MIA, 8" lift OUO, BDS, Rize mutt, Thuren Steering and track bar, Indexed TXVR case, 20" BMF's 37" Toyo's, 2.5 Kings to come!

11-01-2009, 04:56 PM	#8 (permalink)
Mocho Cummins Nut Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 422 Thanks: 7 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts Mocho's Truck Pics	That sucks, I know I really don't want to drop my crossmember. I am willing to clock the transfer case if there isn't another option, but I think dropping the crossmember will leave me with nothing but problems. I just liked the idea of not touching the factory geometry anymore then I have to. But I will need 4WD on the highway a lot at high speeds so I cannot have a driveshaft with any issues. __________________ 2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods Last edited by Mocho : 11-01-2009 at 04:59 PM.

11-01-2009, 05:06 PM	#9 (permalink)
mudslinger Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 189 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mudslinger's Truck Pics	Take the direction that you feel comfortable with, but the cross member drop is pretty straight forward, and there isn't much to get wrong. You can index 10* without it, which should be good for 8", but if you plan to go bigger in the future, I would get the drop done with the 20* ring and never worry about it again. There is a good writeup in this forum on the ring and drop install. __________________ '03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

11-01-2009, 05:09 PM	#10 (permalink)
mudslinger Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Vancouver, Canada Posts: 189 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts mudslinger's Truck Pics	As far as the factory geometry, that is what this is doing. The lift takes your driveline away from the factory geometry with the angle changes, the porpose of indexing is trying to put the angles back to where they were before the lift. __________________ '03, 3500, 4x4, built auto, PDR Twins, Cool duals, TST,EZ, Smarty, FASS150,DDP 90's, Arson3, HID, 12" Rock Krawler Desert Race lift, 20* indexing ring, OUO drop kit, DSS, 14.5r Michelin XL's on 20" Black Widows, Thuren HD steering kit, Fox steering stabilizer

11-01-2009, 05:18 PM	#11 (permalink)
Mocho Cummins Nut Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Edmonton, AB Posts: 422 Thanks: 7 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts Mocho's Truck Pics	I know how to drop the crossmember but I really don't want to move it from the factory location. I can't say for sure but I think doing it could land me with issues later. I have absolutely no plan of ever going more then 8" as I need my truck to tow haul etc and even 8" is getting pretty high for it. Yea I think I will just go with the 10 degree one. __________________ 2004.5 3500 Quad Cab 4x4 CTD Laramie 6 spd std A few mods

11-01-2009, 06:29 PM	#12 (permalink)
*bthanks* Diesel Head Join Date: Apr 2007 Location: Rolla, Missouri Posts: 1,338 Thanks: 55 Thanked 43 Times in 39 Posts bthanks's Truck Pics	How would dropping your cross member leave you with issues later? All its doing is lowerng the main support, then it just has higher blocks that the tranny bolts 2.... I dont understand why your worried about that but you want to use high angle joints? The only reason for dropping the tranny crossmember so you can clock the tcase 20* instead of 10* __________________ 2008 qcsb, southbend DD,airdog II,smarty,arson jr,afe mega cannon, SB66, boost tube, 5" tbe, BDS longarm 6" lift, helo maxx 8's w/35X13.50's http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tAkfRYekA-0- 6.7 Smoke switch http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a-6pZYH9pGY- Burn out!!! www.rollinsmokediesel.com <--- Look For Black Ops Diesel!!