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So my girlfriend is in the market to buy a 2nd gen manual cummins. Most of the ones we are finding are 24v's. Me being a 12v guy, im not very familiar with the 24v. Im just lookin for some input as to what I should be lookin for that could make or brake the purchase of one. Today I looked at/ test drove a 98.5 24v 5spd, pretty clean truck felt like it drove solid and steered pretty good, kinda wandered down the freeway, but a steering brace would take care of that. Ive also heard about a "53" block, not sure what thats all about but im gunna go search it. O and the truck is BONE stock, which is how it will stay if she buys it, she just needs somethin that can haul one or 2 horses, and her 85 toyota 4cyl just wont cut it lol. but anyway, any input on 24v's would be appreciated, thanks guys-Dom
Weak point would be the VP44 and the lift pump they can get overworked easily when you start moddin, My dad went through 2 VP'S and 4 lift pumps. Finally he listened and got a FASS and has been trouble free for a long time. His is an 02 with 265k on the ticker and going strong. He has alot of mods though. Other than that man its a CUMMINS.
I guess dodge has crappy lift pumps that werent installed in the tank and they go out easily, If you plan to keep it stock I would say just put a good lift pump on it and call it good. But an Edge EZ intake and exhaust would compliment her very well
__________________ 2007 3500 LARAMIE MEGA CAB. 5.9 L W/G56 | MPI Twins | 90's | ARPs |EFI Live | Wilson Thrasher | 5 inch TBE | AD II 165 | AM Factory match gauges| Valair DD | 626hp/1294tq 12/7/11 @ Source Auto with a single 62 and Smarty TNT-R.
CONVENIENT THING ABOUT A CUMMINS TOWING CAPABILITY IS THAT IT CAN PULL ONE HECK OF A BANDWAGON. SO ALL YOU FORD AND CHEVY GUYS FEEL FREE TO JUMP ON.
Ya i agree!!!!! Fass is the first thing to do!!!!!! with about 1500-1600 worth of work she can have a nice running with a little power nothing crazy but you can tell!!!! Fass, exhuast, and mild chip, maybe less if you find the stuff used??? As for the 53 block I think you would be ok you can look for it if you are concerned about it, it will be stamped on the drvers side toward the front of the block you will have to clean it so you can read it. I like my 24v alot I know we need to do more to gain more power but if she is not to crazy about that and can wait and do stuff as she or you guys go GET ONE!!!!!!!
Oh ya almost forgot!!!!! GAUGES GAUGES GAUGES!!!!!!!!! Watch the fuel pressure!!!!
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01 Ram, Built BD trans w/revmax stage 4 converter, 4.5" lift 35's on 20's hx35 swap, afe torque tube, fass150/95, QUADZILLA W/ADR and V2, 60hp nozzles, ARP 425 studs. BIG thanks SYSKIYOU DIESEL PERFORMANCE! Dyno'd 404hp & 900ft lbs
Last edited by S.O.L.I.D crew; 02-22-2010 at 08:45 PM.
Ya, this truck will literally never have any mods(Im not sure what that means either guys!!), her old man might be helpin er out so I cant see it ever having any mods....til I get my hands on it, but for the most part it'l just be one of those bone stock old guy trucks. I would however plan on doin gauges for sure, thats just a must have in a diesel pickup.
98 and 99 came with a better steering configuration, instead of the inverted y crap. Lift pump and fuel pressure gauge are number one on the list! After that, just drive it forever if your not going to mod it. 98.5-2000.5 supposedly came with a smaller input shaft on the 6 speeds. However, I read somewhere when I was doing my swap, that any NV5600 made after August of 1999 had the larger 1 3/8" shaft. The donor truck I got my 6 speed from was built in August of 2000, but was titled a 2001 truck. Go figure. I also think 2000.5 and up they have disc brakes in the rear instead of drums. Wish mine had discs. Sport models have dual bulbs in each headlight. Other than that... I'll have to think more. Lol.
__________________ Chris A. SOLD: 1999 RAM 2500 6sp 4x4, 508hp/958tq, small scale budget SOLD: 2005 Ram 2500 QC LB Auto 4x4.
THE S.O.L.I.D CREW WWW.OREGONCOALROLLERS.COM
Searching for a first gen now.
01.5 is when they started putting disc brakes in the rear
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2000 2500, Twins S300/S480 Mach 6+ .084 tubes Drag Comp,O-ringed and studs Helix 2 cam F1 Springs Fluidamper 5 inch exhaust,Built Trans Fass,and a bunch more go fast parts. 641hp 1463 Tq 12.05 1/4 mile
First thing is first check for 53 block. Check for shaft play on the turbo if an 00-02 check for codes by doing the key trick. Check for excessive blow by, fuel knocks....etc.
If you buy one then you can get a new after market lift pump.
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-Jerrod-
2002 3/4 ton X-cab Short Box 4x4 5 speed, Volant CAI, Blue Chip VP44, Edge J/A*HOT*, PDR HX40, AD 100, CFM+, BD short shift, Noise Makers, Flo-Pro SS Duals... http://www.hotroddieselclub.com its the myspace for diesels!
pretty much what has been said, check the codes, specifically look for the vp44 death code, check for the 53 block and whatever you do once you get it put a raptor/air dog or a fass on it asap with a fuel pressure guage.
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Jordan, 2001 6spd ho, 4.5 lift, 37"toyo mt's on 18x10 RBP 91R's, AFE Intake, 5in MBRP turbo back, edge comp, Industrian Injection vp44, Dipricol boost, egt and fuel pressure gauges, airdog 150, Vulcan draw straw V and big line kit
85 was the best year toyota, last year of the solid axle and first for the fuel injection. Surely if you get gauges you can slip a smarty or something by the old man.
85 was the best year toyota, last year of the solid axle and first for the fuel injection. Surely if you get gauges you can slip a smarty or something by the old man.
its an 85 bit still carb'd, i knda wan buy it for my wheeler, but i want a house more.
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