- MEMBER MAP
- REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - ADVERTISE - CONTACT US -
Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
|Diesel Polls Cummins Forum Official Polls|
|Topic Review (Newest First)|
|11-08-2012 10:35 AM|
|dodgeram18||Right on, thanks for the info. I have mostly only read people are going with studs rather than just re-torquing bolts and now I know why. I will definitely have to invest in a set of studs.|
|11-07-2012 08:53 PM|
|BC-12Valve||6.7s have higher cylinder pressures than 5.9s due to the bigger bore and longer stroke; and this can blow a HG. I would go with some ARP 425s. A lot of guys go with ARP 625s too.|
|11-07-2012 01:04 PM|
4th gen Re-torque head bolts vs. Arp 425. poll and opinions.
Im new to the 6.7 but with my old 5.9 lots of members have been able to get away with just re-torquing stock head bolts to keep their head clamped in place and save premature HG failure. Is this still a common debate on the new 6.7? Am I able to re-torque stock head bolts to a tighter torque and hold my head? Truck mods are H&S mm, Dpf delete, and intake. I do NOT plan on upgrading turbo or injectors prob just intake horn and full egr delete later on. will stock bolts hold, and what torque should I use on them?