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Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet. You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today! If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us |
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| General Tech Articles Common Technical articles/writeups pretaining to all vintages of our beloved Dodge/Cummins trucks...NO ADVERTISING |
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#25 (permalink) |
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Diesel Freak
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How do you test the silicone levels? And can you rip off the tube and everything from the front of the turbo and just put a cone filter right on the turbo?
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1990 F250 7.3 IDI NA auto 4x4 250k 1997 2500 12V Cummins 5spd 2wd 295k miles #100 plate, SB Con O 26mpg O/D 1850RPM Cruise C.. |
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#27 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
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There is no reason other than fitting it that you couldn't put a filter on the turbo.
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'05 2500 4X4 610 6Spd Big Horn. Bully Dog Downloader, Silencer Ring MIA, Intake Tube Silencer MIA, BHAF, 6" Tuff Country, straight thru exhaust (Kept kitty), 37' Pro Comps, Nerf Bars, Custom front 3 place light bar, Pop-Up Goose Neck Hitch,
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#32 (permalink) |
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Posts: n/a
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Do we really KNOW how much that really affects a diesel engine? We can see it on a dyno, but do we really see it seat of pants? I'm pulling hot air in from the engine compartment (swiss-cheesed airbox) and still pull almost 23mpg with 4.10 rears...so to me, it doesn't make a difference... Additionally, I will add that most "offroad" equipment have different configurations of the exhaust manifold...most have the turbo mounted up high (like even with the top of the valave cover or higher), not tucked down to the side like the ones in our trucks (maybe similar to the 1st gen's CTD...been too long since I looked at one). So there is room to mount a filter on them...I was thinking that it might be a little tight mounting a BHAF in the compartment of our trucks... steved |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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Facts are facts....cooler air=more dense=more oxygen=more power. That's why you have a "density altitude" at airports....depends on barometric pressure and temperature. Here's my dorky link http://wahiduddin.net/calc/density_altitude.htm http://wahiduddin.net/calc/cf.htm Therefore, I want to suck in colder air from outside of the engine compartment. Ram-Air (no pun intended) would be even nicer, as it would make the intake air charge (pre-turbo, at least) even more dense. Now, I have a question. I'm installing a DiabloSport Poer Puck and Predator on my 04.5 Monday. Getting an aftermarket, flow-through muffler installed Tuesday, but....I'm going to leave the stock airbox and filter in place and see how it goes. If I need more induction air, the filter indicator should tell me, right? I'm thinking that the stock filter should flow more than adequately. Anyone modded their rides, but left the stock intake? |
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#35 (permalink) |
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Tech Specialist
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I personally ran a test with my BHAF, using a temp sensor mounted right to the BHAF to test the long-held notion as to "vastly high underhood temperatures" when the vehicle is in motion - result? An average *5 degrees* above outside ambient while the truck was moving at any decent speed! The high underhood temperature claim is a MYTH unless the vehicle is standing still, or after the engine is shut down and heat soak takes effect - but that is HARDLY the case while traveling down the road! Here's a pic of my remote temp sensor that allowed constant underhood temp monitoring as I drove under widely varying conditions - including RV towing and use of the Air Conditioner in heavy grades: ![]() And as asked further above, exactly HOW MUCH power improvement will be provided if intake air temp is reduced by 5, 10, or even 20 degrees - ever see any documented tests? Two revered and long held myths were (to MY satisfaction!) broken by this and an accompanying test - underhood heat rise above ambient is MINIMAL when the vehicle is in motion. Added to that, was the similar notion that "forcing" outside air into the engine intake by various aftermarket gadgets will provide a significant degree of "forced air supercharging" that will also increase power... Fact is, the amount of "forced air" these system are actually capable of is so minimal as to be laughable - and to ACTUALLY provide any such forced air would require vehicle speeds and an intake so large and obnoxious that FEW of us would even seriously consider it! Not that either of the above efforts are harmful, just sorta worthless above what can be gained simply by installation of a better and less restrictive air filter such as the BFAF. And if any want to challenge my above claims, go ahead and educate me with whatever reliable test documentation you can dig up - I come here to learn, just like many others... ![]()
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White '02 Quad cab, NV5600, GAUGES! Comp, Walbro, DTT SS intake, Rip's 4 in. exhaust, Don M's 1.6's, DSS, Frantz oil bypass & fuel filters, Amsoil air filter, MOBILE Ham Radio-IC-706, 600 watt amp, '88 Kit 24 ft. 5er, 418 HP/978 Tq., 24 ft KIT 5er. |
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Posts: n/a
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Quote:
Good luck, I could pull the filterminder into the red with my COMPLETE STOCK truck with less than 2k miles on it with a single WOT run (empty)...the 2004.5 filterhousing is very restrictive, but I guess you'll find that out... The filterminder on my truck has long since quite working, like they have on all my trucks... steved |
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