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So my 4x4 light hasn't worked for a while and it's getting pretty annoying. The 4x4 still works fine the light just doesn't come on. Though it will flicker while I'm driving on a bumpy road whether its in 4x4 or not. Anyone ever had this happen to them?
It could be the CAD actuator not engaging the coupler all the way. Mine is all beat to hell (smashed it on a rock) and it bent the vac canister which caused it to only partially engage. The light wouldnt come on unless i pulled the unit off and beat the fork over the other 1/4" that it has to go. the switch is pretty sensitive, the fork has to be over 99% to turn on the light!
Or maybe its just the wires going to the switch on the CAD unit, it wouldnt be very hard to rip them off with a twig...
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2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
I've looked under there and all the wires and vac lines look good so I guess it's the cad how much are they from the stealership?
I plan to go with the posi-lock and make it manual and get rid of the vacuum set up
ED
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1998 CTD 24v,DTT trans billet in and out,Edge EZ, exhaust brake, 4" turbo back exhaust, 275 injectors, Mag-tech trans and diff pan/cover, piller gages, digital fuel psi, 4door, shortbed, larger turbo.Air Dog fuel pump/filter/air water separator
I priced one out from the dealer up here and it was $600 + some change... I only did that for kicks anyways, i already wanted to switch to the posi-lok manual setup and being 1/4 the price it was a no brainer!
But, before you get carried away buying new parts for nothing. Pull the CAD off, its only 4 bolts, fire up the truck and put the t-case in 4wd. Inspect the fork to see if its moving over all the way (towards the drivers side). If it is, you have an issue in the swich, wiring, or the bulb itself.
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2007 Laramie 3500, 4.5" RevTek, 35x12.5 ProComp MTRs, buckstop front+rear, bullydog TD, BD RFI intake, Lightforce 140s in the bumper, 240HIDs up top
1997 SLT 2500, 5.5" fabtech, 36x13.5 IROKs, 5x12s, s300, 4kgsk, inj pump FUBAR
+1 Electrical is ALWAYS the weakest link. The thing is controlled by vacuum, and unless damaged, should easily shift in. Probably a loose connection or something. Maybe even a bulb in the cluster half burnt.
The switch on the CAD turns on and sends the signal to the dash. The CAD wouldn't be slipping in and out. Even if it didn't engage all the way, it still would be pulling to one side from the vacuum, and shouldn't be able to bounce around. The switch might if it were barely touching, though.
That must be irritating!
PS If your CAD unit is OK, you can use the BD 2low kit to operate like the posi lock if you plumb it to bypass the transfer case shifter. Then your dash light indicates if the Cad is engaged. When it's locked in, I can shift in and out of 4wd at 60mph faster and easier than changing gears. Plus I can leave it unlocked for 2wd low range. I put a rocker switch on the shifter housing between the shifters.
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01 100hp tips EZ/elbow 4"ss BDbrake &steering brace PSCpump 1.5"dom steering tapped &rammed manual CAD 3.55's LSD, big shaft nv5600/241HD Valair single pc rear ds 265x70r19.5 big rigs 3rd gen brakes Ugly black and thrashed!
Last edited by totalloser; 11-24-2008 at 01:28 AM.
On my last truck (98 model) the light worked sometimes and didn't work sometimes for the last 5 years I owned it. Most of the time it didn't work. I also used 4X4 3-4 times per week. It never bothered me since the 4X4 worked so I didn't fix it but I never had it flicker on while in 2 wheel drive.
Yeah the fact that the 4x4 still works fine is the only reason why I haven't fixed it earlier. Ill look into the bulb in the dash though and look for any looks connections.
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