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Old 10-05-2008, 04:39 PM   #25 (permalink)
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As far as installing the injector, it is really no big deal.
1) Remove valve cover and CCV filter and hoses.
2) Remove just the exhaust rocker arm (the longer of the two) when removing be careful of the valve bridge and the push rod. The oil likes to keep the components attached to themselves. The push rod sometimes will come out of the lifter pocket and can slide by the cam, but if you just hold it in place while removing the rocker arm it will be fine.
3) Remove the high pressure fuel line for #1 cylinder and remove the retaining nut for the fuel line to injector adapter.
4) Remove the adapter from the head, notice that it is orientated with an orientation ball to the top of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop the adapter or mar up the end. This is a mechanical seal only and if there are nicks or damage the connector can cause an internal fuel system leak which will cause other fuel system problems and fault codes.
5) Remove the 8mm bolts holding the injector and remove the injector solenoid harness connections. These are not polarity sensitive.
6) Use a lady slipper pry bar to pop the injector out of the hole.
7) Take a clean rag and some PB-blaster or equivilent and clean the seat for the sealing washer in the cylinder head.
8) Make sure the sealing washer is removed from the head if it did not come with the injector while being removed.
9) Install new injector, making sure to orientate it correctly so that the connector will mate with the body of the injector. Use clean engine oil on the o-rings just before installing the injector. If you wait too long the oil can cause the o-ring to swell and there is risk of cutting the o-ring on installation.
10) When installing the injector, you can press on the solenoid body to get the injector to pop past the o-ring and it will kind of snap into place. Install the 8mm bolts and pre torque them to 40 in/lb.
11) Install the new adapter that should come with the injector. These are supposed to be replaced as matched sets. Because of the machined mechanical seal at the conical face. If you did not get one, I have reused them in the field in a bind without issue and this is why I said earlier to be careful with the one you removed with the old injector.
12) Pre torque the connector to 20 nm.
13) Final torque of the injector is 89 in/lb
14) Final torque of the adapter is 55 nm
15) Install high pressure line and torque to 40 nm
16) Install the rocker arm and make sure the valve bridge is orientated with the dot on the exhaust side of the cylinder head with both valve stems in the valve bridge pockets.
Torque the rocker arm to 35- 40 nm
17) If you choose to check the adjustment of this rocker arm it can be done by rolling the flywheel through the inspection hole and a bar at the 6:00 oclock position. Engine rotation is CCW from the rear. Once the valves are overlapping on cylinder 6, meaning exhaust valve coming up and intake valve going down, you can adjust or check the valve clearance on both valve on #1 cylinder. Intake is .010 and exhaust is .020.
18) Install your harness connections back on your solenoid.
19) Install your valve cover and hose connections.

Start it and after a minute or so all of the fuel system should be purged of air and your on your way man! This may sound like it is too much but if you have any mechanical apptitude at all you can do it on your own, especially being #1 cylinder!!!! Feel free to ask any questions. I train technicians for my company on this engine and I also perform failure analysis and technical support for this engine.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:02 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Wow, what a read. I have been watching these types of forums closely for situations just like this one. Thanks for the info, especially you dodge techs!

Now, how are the aftermarket strength compared to the factory ones? With the tuners alot of us run now, is it a good idea for someone like me to go with a near stock aftermarket injector? Something like a 25 hp or 50 hp setup? I run an edge juice/attitude/ez stack. Nothing turned up high just for safety reasons. Can you run aftermarket tips on a set of good condition stock injectors and be reliable? Thanks for the help.
Joe E.

and good luck to ya formerhr.
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:09 PM   #27 (permalink)
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What happend to my directions?
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:27 PM   #28 (permalink)
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they are not that big of a deal to put in you can do it for your self man take an after noon at the house and put some bigger stixs in there and be done with this problem. That is one bad A$$ tech to be able to see inside the end of that tip through those tiny holes and see its clogged and even if he did a cut out test that aint going to tell him but what injector isnt firing he would have to do a duration test and that still isnt that acurate enough to say it is clogged you probly just had a loose connection is it running any better now
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Old 10-05-2008, 05:35 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Yeah, the guy is just guessing. You should see the tooling that Bosch has for testing these injectors. The machines are around a million dollars a piece and they have had to purchase different machines for CRIN 1 to CRIN 3 injectors. It is possible that the injector tip is carboned up because of excess soot if running a lot of idle time or if a lot of inner city driving. More than likely it is a mechanical failure of the lower needle valve assembly area or the upper armeture area.
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Old 04-01-2011, 12:22 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Any update? Did Dodge or Cummins cover this repair?
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Old 04-01-2011, 08:43 PM   #31 (permalink)
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The original poster on this 2.5 year old thread hasn't logged on to this website in over a year.
Sort of doubt he's going to give you an answer.
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