As far as installing the injector, it is really no big deal.
1) Remove valve cover and CCV filter and hoses.
2) Remove just the exhaust rocker arm (the longer of the two) when removing be careful of the valve bridge and the push rod. The oil likes to keep the components attached to themselves. The push rod sometimes will come out of the lifter pocket and can slide by the cam, but if you just hold it in place while removing the rocker arm it will be fine.
3) Remove the high pressure fuel line for #1 cylinder and remove the retaining nut for the fuel line to injector adapter.
4) Remove the adapter from the head, notice that it is orientated with an orientation ball to the top of the cylinder head. Be careful not to drop the adapter or mar up the end. This is a mechanical seal only and if there are nicks or damage the connector can cause an internal fuel system leak which will cause other fuel system problems and fault codes.
5) Remove the 8mm bolts holding the injector and remove the injector solenoid harness connections. These are not polarity sensitive.
6) Use a lady slipper pry bar to pop the injector out of the hole.
7) Take a clean rag and some PB-blaster or equivilent and clean the seat for the sealing washer in the cylinder head.
8) Make sure the sealing washer is removed from the head if it did not come with the injector while being removed.
9) Install new injector, making sure to orientate it correctly so that the connector will mate with the body of the injector. Use clean engine oil on the o-rings just before installing the injector. If you wait too long the oil can cause the o-ring to swell and there is risk of cutting the o-ring on installation.
10) When installing the injector, you can press on the solenoid body to get the injector to pop past the o-ring and it will kind of snap into place. Install the 8mm bolts and pre torque them to 40 in/lb.
11) Install the new adapter that should come with the injector. These are supposed to be replaced as matched sets. Because of the machined mechanical seal at the conical face. If you did not get one, I have reused them in the field in a bind without issue and this is why I said earlier to be careful with the one you removed with the old injector.
12) Pre torque the connector to 20 nm.
13) Final torque of the injector is 89 in/lb
14) Final torque of the adapter is 55 nm
15) Install high pressure line and torque to 40 nm
16) Install the rocker arm and make sure the valve bridge is orientated with the dot on the exhaust side of the cylinder head with both valve stems in the valve bridge pockets.
Torque the rocker arm to 35- 40 nm
17) If you choose to check the adjustment of this rocker arm it can be done by rolling the flywheel through the inspection hole and a bar at the 6:00 oclock position. Engine rotation is CCW from the rear. Once the valves are overlapping on cylinder 6, meaning exhaust valve coming up and intake valve going down, you can adjust or check the valve clearance on both valve on #1 cylinder. Intake is .010 and exhaust is .020.
18) Install your harness connections back on your solenoid.
19) Install your valve cover and hose connections.
Start it and after a minute or so all of the fuel system should be purged of air and your on your way man! This may sound like it is too much but if you have any mechanical apptitude at all you can do it on your own, especially being #1 cylinder!!!! Feel free to ask any questions. I train technicians for my company on this engine and I also perform failure analysis and technical support for this engine.
07.5 2500 with 6.7 Liter Cummins, EGR + EGR cooler delete. H&S performance mods. S&B CAI. Couple of other specialty mods!!!!!!