Leaking rear seals

[MEGA-MAN]

Hey folks - will get straight to the point. 116K miles and both sides rear seals leaking, drivers side has gotten into the E-Brake and passenger side is just starting to leak. Had a new rear end put in at 40K miles by DC due to a seized axle to one of the inner seals(long story for another day). I had the diff serviced at 75K anyway and have had no issues since. This recent issue was found during my annual state inspection. My question is two fold, first how hard is it to replace these myself and second is their an after market option to improve the life of the rear seals - 70K mile change outs is going to get real old. This seams to be one of a few weaknesses with the CTD and just looking for input - Thanks and any suggestions are greatly appreciated.

[totalloser]

Wow, that's a spectacularly short life for a seal. I would expect more unless they are getting really hot. I would take a look at the breather tube. Maybe the axle breather is plugged up, and as the rear end warms up it pressurizes and pukes out the seals.

[MEGA-MAN]

That's I thought - truck gets a lot of HWY unloaded miles and has not worked hard at all. I just inspected the vent tube when putting on my new Bilsteins last week end and looked OK - how to be sure? has what looks to be a funky cap to prevent stuff from getting in but lets air out I guess. Do you think I bigger Diff cover (higher capacity) and or different Diff fluid would help as far as if it is a heat related issue?

[1JP]

My truck has only 53,000 on it and I have had a bad seal for a little bit now. They say you have to go in through the diff. So, it's like the Jeep, pull the shafts and the R&P to replace the seal. Sucks.

[BILLS06]

Replaced both of mine a couple months ago, piece of cake. Need 3.75 qts. of 75-90 or 75-140 depending on service duty, lots of brake parts cleaner, inner seals, diff gasket, and two gaskets for the axles. Air tools and a seal puller/installer will make it go faster. Loosen the cover and drain the fluid, when empty remove cover to clean it and inspect the gear set. Jack up either side that you want to do first. Remove the wheel, brake caliper, caliper slide/bracket, and the 6 bolts holding the axle in place. Slide the axle out and inspect. Next, remove the cotter pin, retaining nut-pay attention on tightness, and washer. You can remove the hub w/ or w/o the rotor, but be careful, the outer bearing will pop out, so have some cardboard handy. Be sure to inspect the bearing and race for scaring/pitting. Inspect the spindle for a groove where the seal rides. As soon as you pull the seal, remove the inner bearing and inspect it and to clean the hub. Soak the inner and outer bearings in oil while you clean the hub, e-brake assembly, and spindle. Be sure that you seat the inner bearing before you install the seal. Wipe some oil on the spindle to aid in installation. When it's fully seated, poke the outer bearing in place followed by the washer, nut-tighten/loosen/tighten/loosen to make sure everything is seated good, then just finger tighten plus an 1/8" and pin. Stick a new gasket on the axle if damaged and slide into place. Install caliper rail, caliper, and wheel. Don't have the torque specs on hand. Then do the same thing on the other side.

[1JP]

Great post Bill, Thanks!!!!! :thumbsup
That is a breath of fresh air from what I was told. That is cake :thumbsup