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I am planning to get a 3/4 ton pickup for pulling a goose neck stock trailer. This time I would like to get a diesel. From what I have seen, it looks like a dodge would be best. However, I have been told it is best to stay away from the 24 valve engines because they have more problems and are less reliable. What is the consensus here? I found a decent deal on a 2001 Ram 3500 but that would be a 24 valve engine. Should I steer clear and look for an older model...pre 1998? Thanks.
Not sure about the 01s... someone else would have to chime in. But the 98 with the 12 valve was one of the best years for sure. A 24 valve would be much easier to add more power for towing. Air intake, exhaust, and a chip/programmer... of course gauges as well.
'98 2500, C/C, S/B, 12v, 5spd, 4x4, CAI, TST #12/BoostElbow, 4kGSK, +40hp Injectors, Turbo Diesel HP Intake Horn, BD Exhaust Manifold, AutoMeter Gauges, Bullydog 4" TB Straight Pipe, AR Outlaw IIs with Nitto Terra Grapplers, BD 3rd Gen Track Bar, BD Steering Box Stabilizer, and V-LEDs lights.
'79 Chevy C10 R/C, L/B, 350-4bbl, 3spd auto
'13 Dodge Dart SXT, 1.4L Turbo, 6spd www.stupidproductions.ca
well the thing with the 24v is that if your lift pump craps the bed your injection pump goes with it cause it is lubricated by fuel unlike the 12v with a P-Pump if you lose the lift pump the truck just wont start. A good thing about 12v is they are cheap to make power but that power is always there. If you get a 24v you can have 700hp for having fun but turn it down to 300 for mpg. So its really up to you what to get cause either way you are getting a cummins and thats all that matters.
There's a guy floating around here with 780k on his unrebuilt cummins. Now, according to duramax and ford guys, his truck should have fallen completely apart around the engine 7.8 times, since they all know that dodge trucks are junk and only last 100k before they spontaneously disassemble themselves while going down the road. That has happened to me 2.76 times, and both times I was only wearing boxers while driving so it was really embarrassing.
go with the 12 valve... they last forever, not saying that the 24 ers don't, but the 12's r cheaper and easier to work on. on the 24 valves u gotta look ou t for the bad blocks.. i beleive their like "51" or something.. someone else will chime in if you want more info on em
__________________ Derek Woods
BLACK '04.5 ram 2500, QCLB, 4x4, NV5600, SLT, airlift, black Pricol boost/Egt, frontier GG, b&w, aux tank, 4" str8 - 6" tip. 3500 MILES ON NEW MOTOR!!!
12 valves are really dependable as long as you get the dowel pin takin care of.... and you have to lug aroung a tool box 24/7 to either add power or to de-tune your 12 valve if ya get one..... 24 vlaves the bad thing is the weak lift pump which in any cause if your goin to mod your the lift pump will be the first upgrade you should make anyways and you can add or de-tune a 24 valve with a push of a button
2001 HIGH OUTPUT, LEVELED, FASS 95, AFE INTAKE, BOOST ELBOW, EDGE JUICE WITH ATTITUDE, SMARTY, DDP'S 110'S, SOUTHBEND DUAL DISC, ALL THANKS TO FABIAN AND THE CREW AT TOXIC DIESEL
I have a 98 24 valve and love it. it all depends on how much money your willing to sink into your rig. if your towing alot, i honestly would go with a 24 valve but the 12 valves do have a lot less electronic crap to go bad. also consider the era of either truck. if your buying a 24 valve your getting a slightly newer truck. and good luck finding a 12 valve with the body not rusted somethin fierce(at a good price). Dont get a first Gen (89-93) i know 3 guys personally that have them (a 93 and two 91's) they are problems gallore.
All trucks have adjustability on the fly. It's called your right foot.
The 12 Valve engine is hands down more reliable than the 24 Valve. Even guys who have spent the money to get an aftermarket lift pump (a must with a 24 Valve, along with a fuel pressure gauge) have gone through multiple pumps.
Ask a 24 Valve guy how many VP's he has gone through, then ask a 12 Valve guy how many P-Pump's (or VE's for that matter) he has gone through.
You have to worry about the KDP on the 24 Valves as well, no only 12 Valves. The later 12 Valves and I guess early 24 Valves had the "53" block, which was more prone to cracking than others. It won't necessarily crack, we've had two 12 Valves with the "53" block and neither one cracked.
Why are 1st gens problems galore. My dad has 2 (a 91.5 and 93) and both have over 650,000 miles and they still run fine. I got a 91.5 and its got over 300,000 just getting broken in. Not one of them has one spot of rust. Just like any other vehicle...its all in how you maintain your stuff. I still get 21.4 mpg (hand calculated). Dont mean to get defensive but gotta defend the 1st gens.
'91.5 w250 white, 5 speed RCLB. lifted. Steadily progressing up the horsepower and torque food chain.
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I dont see a real problem with the VP's if cared for. I only replaced the original one on mine since the LP failed and didnt want to wait and see how far behind the VP would be. It had 112k on it when i bought it and i replaced the LP and VP the week i bought the truck since i was about to hit the road for a 2500 mile pull and didnt want to risk it. I now have 145k on the truck and dont even think about the VP, proper fuel pressure and some 2-stroke to lube it, works fine.
Still will never match the P-pump in long term reliability, but its still nothing that concerns me with my truck.
Just buy the newest truck you can afford. The 2nd gens seem a lot *tougher* than the 3rd gens. All the 3rd gens that are actually used as trucks look like they are falling apart.
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