Homemade Exhaust Brake - Page 2

illflem · 01-07-2009, 09:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by strobel97

illflem.. Your right.. Im thinking of an engine brake.

If it's an engine brake you're after you'd better be a master engineer and machinist.
An engine brake on a 5.9 would take reengineering the engine.
That why they use exhaust brakes.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Not stock

BigT18 · 01-07-2009, 10:02 PM

I wish i could make a engine retarder.

__________________
1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

***Nick B*** · 01-07-2009, 10:48 PM

has anyone ever put a jake brake on these motors i think i recall reading about someone doing this along time ago

__________________
99 dodge 3/4 ton,4x4,edge juice w attitude, hot unlock, coaltrain 150s,garrett stage 3 63.5/72.5/15 ,some tranny work

, afe stage 2, amsoil bypass, mbrp 4 in exhaust, DiPricol egt boost and tranny gauges

farmboy1989 · 01-08-2009, 12:21 PM

I am also very interested in this subject. If anyone has any more information or sources for parts please post them.

__________________
1997 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton ext. cab 4x4 5sp., Dana 80 rear, 3:55 gears, Dual 5 inch stacks, 116,000 miles

BigT18 · 01-08-2009, 12:49 PM

I got all of my parts together and am starting making it. Here's all of my parts:

Scrap 3" stainless pipe
Scrap 1/8" stainless sheet metal
Door Lock Solenoid from a Chevy Silverado
Old Flathead screwdriver
Misc. Springs
Misc. Bolts
Push button switch from Autozone

Basically what i'm gonna do is use the old screwdriver as the butterfly shaft. So i put a 90* bend in the top and made a half circle out of the shaft. Then i drilled two holes in the shaft to mount the butterfly to and a couple of holes in the flat head part to mount to the door lock solenoid. The butterfly i'm making out of 1/8" stainless with a 3/8" hole in the butterfly to relieve pressure. Then the springs mount to the solenoid arm to bring it back to open when the power is off. I'm going to make a small switch mount for my shifter.

My only concern is that the lock solenoid will not last very long because when its in the closed position, its getting a constant power suplly to keep it closed, so that might burn it up.

__________________
1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

Last edited by BigT18 : 01-08-2009 at 12:52 PM.

illflem · 01-08-2009, 01:59 PM

Quote:

My only concern is that the lock solenoid will not last very long because when its in the closed position, its getting a constant power suplly to keep it closed, so that might burn it up

That's why it's better to use a vacuum switch and cylinder.
With vacuum it doesn't matter if the "power" is on all the time.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Not stock

ChopperDan · 01-08-2009, 03:18 PM

The actuator is just a solenoid. Feeding constant power to it shouldn’t be a problem. Depending on the size springs and location, that could be another story. The heat could change the temper of the springs.

__________________

2001 CTD, 4x4, Quad Cab, Drw, Fass, Edge Juice/ Attitude, Smarty, Afe stage 2 dry filter, Alpine dvd/cd/gps/back up monitor, Goerend heavy duty rebuild/billet input, Goerend Triple Disc Torque Converter Super B Single, Snow Stage II, 03 Carli track bar.

illflem · 01-08-2009, 04:32 PM

Save yourself a lot of work and experimenting.
Here's the place I was thinking of http://www.badlanzhpe.com/page6.html

It's been a few years but he told me he would set me up with a 4" valve, two weld on flanges w/ gaskets for it, all the wire including a nice looking shifter mounted switch for around $175. He would provide clamp on flanges for the same price.The set up without the flanges is still $150 so I guess the price hasn't changed much. Very nice looking products.
The gasser racer guys use these valves to bypass the muffler with a Y in the pipe.

Please remember if you have the butterfly closed anything over an idle will cause engine damage even with a hole drilled in the butterfly.
That's the reason all the e-brake manufacturers have a switch on the throttle linkage.
Sort of the same reasoning why you use your right foot for the throttle and brake, so you don't do both at the same time.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Not stock

Last edited by illflem : 01-08-2009 at 04:45 PM.

BigT18 · 01-08-2009, 05:23 PM

Well the door solenoid didnt work, it pushes it out, but cant hold it open. After about 10 seconds, it slowly starts opening, I think i'm just gonna scrap this idea. It seems like everything i said in my last post doesnt work. I had to use a hack saw to cut down the middle of a small bolt to fit the flapper in, which came out nice. Door lock doesnt work and it seems like theres an awfully big risk if i dont get it right.

Illflem: Now with the cutouts, i would need to drill a hole in the flapper then be done with it right. On the same note, as long as i dont give the truck fuel while the brake is on (closed) then everything will be alright. So you cant just leave the brake on and drive around. So your not saying that the only time the brake could be used is when the truck is idling, 700 rpms. I would be able to be driving 50 mph in 5th and drop down to 4th with no fuel and put the exhaust brake on right? Just tryin to clarify.

__________________
1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

farmboy1989 · 01-08-2009, 06:34 PM

Yes I am also wondering if you can apply it say at 2000 rpm, with no throttle. Also if you put it further down the exhaust than right after the turbo, wouldnt it be less likely to damage something?

__________________
1997 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton ext. cab 4x4 5sp., Dana 80 rear, 3:55 gears, Dual 5 inch stacks, 116,000 miles

renopker · 01-08-2009, 07:53 PM

It don't matter were you put it but the farther from the turbo the longer it takes to build pressure.Go on ebay buy a single acting air cylinder spring return and use vacuum to apply it ,should be at least 2 1/2 bore and 2 1/2 stroke take the vacuum from the vacuum pump thru a solenoid.

__________________
98 12v,2wd twins,3:55,g56 6speed,elec fan clutch,100 hp sticks, 10 plate FF aFC fB,3gsk Valair ats,fluid damper,60#springs,o6 exhaust brake,High Idle,prime loc, 4"exh,piller mount

BigT18 · 01-08-2009, 08:35 PM

I think thats what i'm gonna do. But illflem got me a little worried that i wouldnt be able to use it on any rpm other that idle. If he just means no throttle then im game. It wouldnt be very hard to wire in a throttle switch.

__________________
1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

Last edited by BigT18 : 01-08-2009 at 08:37 PM.

01-07-2009, 10:48 PM	#15 (permalink)
*Nick B* Diesel Freak Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: sand springs ok Posts: 868 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post Nick B's Truck Pics	has anyone ever put a jake brake on these motors i think i recall reading about someone doing this along time ago __________________ 99 dodge 3/4 ton,4x4,edge juice w attitude, hot unlock, coaltrain 150s,garrett stage 3 63.5/72.5/15 ,some tranny work, afe stage 2, amsoil bypass, mbrp 4 in exhaust, DiPricol egt boost and tranny gauges

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01-07-2009, 10:02 PM	#14 (permalink)
BigT18 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: May 2008 Location: CNY Posts: 243 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post BigT18's Truck Pics	I wish i could make a engine retarder. __________________ 1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

01-08-2009, 12:21 PM	#16 (permalink)
farmboy1989 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: South Central Illinois Posts: 224 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts farmboy1989's Truck Pics	I am also very interested in this subject. If anyone has any more information or sources for parts please post them. __________________ 1997 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton ext. cab 4x4 5sp., Dana 80 rear, 3:55 gears, Dual 5 inch stacks, 116,000 miles

01-08-2009, 12:49 PM	#17 (permalink)
BigT18 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: May 2008 Location: CNY Posts: 243 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post BigT18's Truck Pics	I got all of my parts together and am starting making it. Here's all of my parts: Scrap 3" stainless pipe Scrap 1/8" stainless sheet metal Door Lock Solenoid from a Chevy Silverado Old Flathead screwdriver Misc. Springs Misc. Bolts Push button switch from Autozone Basically what i'm gonna do is use the old screwdriver as the butterfly shaft. So i put a 90* bend in the top and made a half circle out of the shaft. Then i drilled two holes in the shaft to mount the butterfly to and a couple of holes in the flat head part to mount to the door lock solenoid. The butterfly i'm making out of 1/8" stainless with a 3/8" hole in the butterfly to relieve pressure. Then the springs mount to the solenoid arm to bring it back to open when the power is off. I'm going to make a small switch mount for my shifter. My only concern is that the lock solenoid will not last very long because when its in the closed position, its getting a constant power suplly to keep it closed, so that might burn it up. __________________ 1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin. Last edited by BigT18 : 01-08-2009 at 12:52 PM.

01-08-2009, 03:18 PM	#19 (permalink)
ChopperDan Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Ma Posts: 43 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post ChopperDan's Truck Pics	The actuator is just a solenoid. Feeding constant power to it shouldn’t be a problem. Depending on the size springs and location, that could be another story. The heat could change the temper of the springs. __________________ 2001 CTD, 4x4, Quad Cab, Drw, Fass, Edge Juice/ Attitude, Smarty, Afe stage 2 dry filter, Alpine dvd/cd/gps/back up monitor, Goerend heavy duty rebuild/billet input, Goerend Triple Disc Torque Converter Super B Single, Snow Stage II, 03 Carli track bar.

01-08-2009, 04:32 PM	#20 (permalink)
illflem Moderator Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: Montana Posts: 4,857 Thanks: 4 Thanked 130 Times in 119 Posts illflem's Truck Pics	Save yourself a lot of work and experimenting. Here's the place I was thinking of http://www.badlanzhpe.com/page6.html It's been a few years but he told me he would set me up with a 4" valve, two weld on flanges w/ gaskets for it, all the wire including a nice looking shifter mounted switch for around $175. He would provide clamp on flanges for the same price.The set up without the flanges is still $150 so I guess the price hasn't changed much. Very nice looking products. The gasser racer guys use these valves to bypass the muffler with a Y in the pipe. Please remember if you have the butterfly closed anything over an idle will cause engine damage even with a hole drilled in the butterfly. That's the reason all the e-brake manufacturers have a switch on the throttle linkage. Sort of the same reasoning why you use your right foot for the throttle and brake, so you don't do both at the same time. __________________ Bill '95 2500 4wd auto '95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler Not stock Last edited by illflem : 01-08-2009 at 04:45 PM.

01-08-2009, 05:23 PM	#21 (permalink)
BigT18 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: May 2008 Location: CNY Posts: 243 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post BigT18's Truck Pics	Well the door solenoid didnt work, it pushes it out, but cant hold it open. After about 10 seconds, it slowly starts opening, I think i'm just gonna scrap this idea. It seems like everything i said in my last post doesnt work. I had to use a hack saw to cut down the middle of a small bolt to fit the flapper in, which came out nice. Door lock doesnt work and it seems like theres an awfully big risk if i dont get it right. Illflem: Now with the cutouts, i would need to drill a hole in the flapper then be done with it right. On the same note, as long as i dont give the truck fuel while the brake is on (closed) then everything will be alright. So you cant just leave the brake on and drive around. So your not saying that the only time the brake could be used is when the truck is idling, 700 rpms. I would be able to be driving 50 mph in 5th and drop down to 4th with no fuel and put the exhaust brake on right? Just tryin to clarify. __________________ 1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin.

01-08-2009, 06:34 PM	#22 (permalink)
farmboy1989 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: South Central Illinois Posts: 224 Thanks: 6 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts farmboy1989's Truck Pics	Yes I am also wondering if you can apply it say at 2000 rpm, with no throttle. Also if you put it further down the exhaust than right after the turbo, wouldnt it be less likely to damage something? __________________ 1997 Dodge 2500 3/4 ton ext. cab 4x4 5sp., Dana 80 rear, 3:55 gears, Dual 5 inch stacks, 116,000 miles

01-08-2009, 07:53 PM	#23 (permalink)
renopker Cummins Nut Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 350 Thanks: 0 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts renopker's Truck Pics	It don't matter were you put it but the farther from the turbo the longer it takes to build pressure.Go on ebay buy a single acting air cylinder spring return and use vacuum to apply it ,should be at least 2 1/2 bore and 2 1/2 stroke take the vacuum from the vacuum pump thru a solenoid. __________________ 98 12v,2wd twins,3:55,g56 6speed,elec fan clutch,100 hp sticks, 10 plate FF aFC fB,3gsk Valair ats,fluid damper,60#springs,o6 exhaust brake,High Idle,prime loc, 4"exh,piller mount

01-08-2009, 08:35 PM	#24 (permalink)
BigT18 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: May 2008 Location: CNY Posts: 243 Thanks: 0 Thanked 5 Times in 1 Post BigT18's Truck Pics	I think thats what i'm gonna do. But illflem got me a little worried that i wouldnt be able to use it on any rpm other that idle. If he just means no throttle then im game. It wouldnt be very hard to wire in a throttle switch. __________________ 1995 Cummins 12v Reg. Cab 4x4 5 speed, 250,000 miles, boost/pyro, straight piped 5" stack, #10 plate, pump cranked, coal rollin. Last edited by BigT18 : 01-08-2009 at 08:37 PM.