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i did it ALL except buying a noise filter from an aftermarket source
Remove engine harness and install braided noise sheilding on TPS wires from TPS to PCM and on Trans control wires from Trans to PCM. (this precludes the need for a noise filter since the braided sheilding prevents the noise from entering the wires intially)
Ground PCM case w/ 8awg fine-strand cable to negative battery ground
Replace Ground cables on battery
Replace Gov Press sensor and Gov solenoid
Replace trans fluid and filter
Replace Output shaft speed sensor
my Gov sensor/solenoid were faulty and that got my PCM out of limp and allowed it to shift normally. however, nighttime driving made the TC lockup, OD/D shifting problem apparant. i knew it was dependant on electrical load since it only happened at night, when running the lighting increased the Generator load dramatically. turns out the brush in the generator was worn down to the shoe and was arcing out on the armature. this acring created RFI which was introduced into the harness and the PCM via inductance. replacing this brush (even though my truck produced 14v while running and showed no evident signs of failure) solved my shifting problems 100% . my truck is now shifts as strongly, predictably and reliably as it did when it first rolled of the Lot.
Moral of the story; REBUILD YOUR GENERATOR FIRST, before buying ANYTHING else.
Thanks for the reply i tried to test the voltage on the tps the other day and i drilled the tps so i could adjust it this did not work so i drilled 2 small holes in the case of the tps about the size of the spray wand on a electrical contact spray can and i sprayed electrical contact cleaner in one of the holes and a bunch of dirt came out the other one and then i sealed th 2 small holes with silicone and the truck shifts fine now but it has only been a week,i still have my fingers crossed.But i still do not understand why the new tps i bought from dodge will not work at all,you would think a new one would fix the problem but it will not shift to o/d or lock up a all with the new one?
well, did you calibrate your TPS like the article on Cummins Database describes? if you did, then you may be getting inductive interference in your TPS circuit from the generator. look for a starter/generator/alternator repair shop. the guy who i took my Gen to tested it beforehand, tore it down, inspected it, replaced the brush, cleaned it, reassembled it and re-tested it again. initial output was about 90Amps. With the new brush installed, it put out over 120Amps with no arcing.
Truckless: searching for rig #5
The easiest way to test this is to simply disconnecting the alternator and take the truck for a drive. If if shifts properly then it's the alternator, if it remains the same probably one of the other problems described. I unplugged mine and it shifted perfectly. I then cleaned the terminals on the back of the alternator and it's been working great since Jan.
I tried the pcm ground method and it worked for a while but the problem returned in a month.
'99 Quadcab,4x4,SB,AT,Smarty, tripod autometer on the pillar, Mickeys, BFG 33's, BHAF, Outerware, boost elbow, more to come soon.
2006 srt-8 jeep GC... 8.0 spinning through the 60ft. Fri scud camshaft, nitrous outlet 100* shot, Long tubes, bwoody cai, bwoody lowering springs, diablo sport programer, 6000k hid's, and a little JL Audio.... ima get another cummins I promise lol.
Mine was the ground strap in the drivers wheel well! shifting perfectly then I removed the nose for service and TC lock/unlock started. I removed the strap, sanded the surface and re-assembled problem solved.
IMHO, the noise filter works most of the time as a band-aid to mask the real issue of electrical short (such as alt issues or bad grounds) and do not really SOLVE the problem.
'98.5 RAM 4x4 QC 24v, CRAZY CARL'SWhipple supercharger, Carl's SS twins, 13mm P7100,TUNNEL RAM intake plate, Hamilton cam/valvetrain, , full 5" DUALS, BILLET AUTO
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