Factory Clearcoat Thickness? Thinking of buffing - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

Detailing Cleaning, waxing, buffing ect

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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-16-2012, 01:53 PM Thread Starter
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Factory Clearcoat Thickness? Thinking of buffing

With the new rig coming home I can't wait to give it the whole wash/wax treatment.

However, one thing I noticed on just about every car on the lot, was they all had a pretty good amount of orange peel. Now I'm well versed in the fine art of colorsanding, but the last thing I want to do is burn through a very thin clearcoat trying to get rid of the factory orange peel.

Has anyone else color sanded/buffed their truck? I don't think I'd start with anything more agressive than 2000 grit, possibly as high as 3000 grit, both wet. After that it would be 3M regular cut buffing compound followed by swirl remover (foam pad) and some glaze.

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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 11:08 AM
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When I got my truck, I took it to a someone to get buffed. You should be fine. Atleast for the buff as long as you don't burn through. Sanding tho I'm not familiar. Maybe someone else has more to ad on that. But the buff should b able to get rid of most orange Peel and light scratches

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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by BlackandChrome View Post
With the new rig coming home I can't wait to give it the whole wash/wax treatment.

However, one thing I noticed on just about every car on the lot, was they all had a pretty good amount of orange peel. Now I'm well versed in the fine art of colorsanding, but the last thing I want to do is burn through a very thin clearcoat trying to get rid of the factory orange peel.

Has anyone else color sanded/buffed their truck? I don't think I'd start with anything more agressive than 2000 grit, possibly as high as 3000 grit, both wet. After that it would be 3M regular cut buffing compound followed by swirl remover (foam pad) and some glaze.
I would not do it on a factory paint. They apply the bare minimum of material. While you can color sand it and polish it without breaking through you will reduce the clear to a point it looses a lot of it's UV properties resulting in pealing clear or base down the road.

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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 11:32 AM
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Would a nice coat of wax keep the uv's at bay? As long as there is a steady regiment of waxing, should prevent the UV from destroying the clear?

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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 11:47 AM
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Would a nice coat of wax keep the uv's at bay? As long as there is a steady regiment of waxing, should prevent the UV from destroying the clear?
Do what you want, but I wouldn't. It's a POS factory paint job. There is barely enough mills to keep the paint on the steel as it is. You want a glass finish on a truck then I recommend paying the money for a paint job, and color sanding. You also won't have any warranty on the paint if you go sanding and polishing. There is no way to tell if you are protecting the paint with wax or not until it is too late.

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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 12:01 PM
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Makes sense.

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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 12:07 PM
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At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-19-2012, 09:55 PM
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At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

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Can you explain a bit more into why?

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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 01:32 AM
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Ok if I remember right this is how my boss explained it... Don't quote me exactly or get all upset cause at the moment I think this is how he did. Wax covers over the paint and doesn't really let out breath. (i know it sounds funny paint breathing) but it does need to. And when you wax it your not shining up the paint you have you covering it up with the wax (covering it up as in microscopic scratches and stuff of that sort). When you buff and polish it you are actually heating up the clear coat and smoothing it out so to speak. You remove very very little clear. And then using a polish you remove any residue from the buffing proses leaving you with a mirror finish.

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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 01:42 PM Thread Starter
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Do what you want, but I wouldn't. It's a POS factory paint job. There is barely enough mills to keep the paint on the steel as it is. You want a glass finish on a truck then I recommend paying the money for a paint job, and color sanding. You also won't have any warranty on the paint if you go sanding and polishing. There is no way to tell if you are protecting the paint with wax or not until it is too late.
I figured as much. OEM's are notoriously cheap when it comes to that kind of thing.

I think I might just hit it with some of the regular or fine cut and see how far that will get me without removing too much material.

Otherwise I really don't feel like hitting a brand new truck with more clear.
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post #11 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 01:47 PM
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I don't see an issue with polishing it. Material removal is minimal when just polishing. Color sanding on the other hand I would stay away from. You should clay bar it first, then polish if you think it is necessary, then wax.

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post #12 of 13 (permalink) Old 05-20-2012, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by cumminsrulez View Post
At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

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Wax has it's purpose. Doesn't mean the average user know what that is. The surface must be clean prior to wax application. Think of was as a temporary clear coat. You wouldn't clear over dirt, so don't wax over dirt either. Once the surface is clean the wax serves a layer of protection to keep debris from seating into the paint's surface. It can help fill minor surface imperfections, but really that should be taken care of by polishing or color sanding then polishing.

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