Factory Clearcoat Thickness? Thinking of buffing - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
- HOME - FORUMS - GARAGE - TECH - ARTICLES - CHAT - CLASSIFIEDS - REVIEWS - VIDEOS - MEMBER MAP - STORE - INSURANCE -
- REGISTER - CALENDAR - INFO - SITE HELP - RULES - STAFF - MEMBERSHIP - ADVERTISE - CONTACT US -


Welcome to the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum, the fastest growing Dodge Diesel Community on the internet.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us
Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > General Forums > Detailing
Detailing Cleaning, waxing, buffing ect

CumminsForum.com is the premier Dodge Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.

Auto Insurance

» Featured Product
Wheel & Tire Center

Closed Thread
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-16-2012, 01:53 PM   #1 (permalink)
Diesel Freak
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 513
Thanks: 14
Thanked 136 Times in 97 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Factory Clearcoat Thickness? Thinking of buffing

With the new rig coming home I can't wait to give it the whole wash/wax treatment.

However, one thing I noticed on just about every car on the lot, was they all had a pretty good amount of orange peel. Now I'm well versed in the fine art of colorsanding, but the last thing I want to do is burn through a very thin clearcoat trying to get rid of the factory orange peel.

Has anyone else color sanded/buffed their truck? I don't think I'd start with anything more agressive than 2000 grit, possibly as high as 3000 grit, both wet. After that it would be 3M regular cut buffing compound followed by swirl remover (foam pad) and some glaze.
BlackandChrome is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 05-19-2012, 11:08 AM   #2 (permalink)
Cummins Nut
 
RollinCoal420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 367
Thanks: 65
Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts
iTrader Score: 4 reviews
When I got my truck, I took it to a someone to get buffed. You should be fine. Atleast for the buff as long as you don't burn through. Sanding tho I'm not familiar. Maybe someone else has more to ad on that. But the buff should b able to get rid of most orange Peel and light scratches
__________________
Oh6 3500 Sport. EFI Live, full billit trans, 66/73, 50% overs, studs
RollinCoal420 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 11:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
Rescue Tower
 
Shainer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,486
Thanks: 652
Thanked 1,815 Times in 1,323 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by BlackandChrome View Post
With the new rig coming home I can't wait to give it the whole wash/wax treatment.

However, one thing I noticed on just about every car on the lot, was they all had a pretty good amount of orange peel. Now I'm well versed in the fine art of colorsanding, but the last thing I want to do is burn through a very thin clearcoat trying to get rid of the factory orange peel.

Has anyone else color sanded/buffed their truck? I don't think I'd start with anything more agressive than 2000 grit, possibly as high as 3000 grit, both wet. After that it would be 3M regular cut buffing compound followed by swirl remover (foam pad) and some glaze.
I would not do it on a factory paint. They apply the bare minimum of material. While you can color sand it and polish it without breaking through you will reduce the clear to a point it looses a lot of it's UV properties resulting in pealing clear or base down the road.
__________________
Custom pinstriped Power Wheel. I started out with very little... I still have most of it. Feel free to PM me anytime.
Shainer is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 11:32 AM   #4 (permalink)
Cummins Nut
 
RollinCoal420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 367
Thanks: 65
Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts
iTrader Score: 4 reviews
Would a nice coat of wax keep the uv's at bay? As long as there is a steady regiment of waxing, should prevent the UV from destroying the clear?
__________________
Oh6 3500 Sport. EFI Live, full billit trans, 66/73, 50% overs, studs
RollinCoal420 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 11:47 AM   #5 (permalink)
Rescue Tower
 
Shainer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,486
Thanks: 652
Thanked 1,815 Times in 1,323 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by RollinCoal420 View Post
Would a nice coat of wax keep the uv's at bay? As long as there is a steady regiment of waxing, should prevent the UV from destroying the clear?
Do what you want, but I wouldn't. It's a POS factory paint job. There is barely enough mills to keep the paint on the steel as it is. You want a glass finish on a truck then I recommend paying the money for a paint job, and color sanding. You also won't have any warranty on the paint if you go sanding and polishing. There is no way to tell if you are protecting the paint with wax or not until it is too late.
__________________
Custom pinstriped Power Wheel. I started out with very little... I still have most of it. Feel free to PM me anytime.
Shainer is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 12:01 PM   #6 (permalink)
Cummins Nut
 
RollinCoal420's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2012
Posts: 367
Thanks: 65
Thanked 31 Times in 27 Posts
iTrader Score: 4 reviews
Makes sense.
__________________
Oh6 3500 Sport. EFI Live, full billit trans, 66/73, 50% overs, studs
RollinCoal420 is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 12:07 PM   #7 (permalink)
VP of the dry side
 
cumminsrulez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Moses Lake, Washington
Posts: 3,329
Thanks: 320
Thanked 267 Times in 229 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.
__________________
97,2wd,5 spd, Moss Green, 170k,bhaf third gen intake, 4in diamond eye duals, 10 plate,afc mods, kdp,egt boost fp dp,valair street dd,23*,Haisley 5k gsk-60pounders,traction bars,.10 over gasket, A1000 custom fuel setup,4x.014 155 marine injectors,.025 dvs, 62/68/.83 t4 FMW, grid heater delete, head bolts at 135#s

Last edited by cumminsrulez; 05-19-2012 at 12:16 PM.
cumminsrulez is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-19-2012, 09:55 PM   #8 (permalink)
Diesel Head
 
Shorts's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Texas on my mind
Posts: 1,729
Thanks: 168
Thanked 236 Times in 180 Posts
iTrader Score: 2 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by cumminsrulez View Post
At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.

Can you explain a bit more into why?
__________________
2006 Ram 2500 QCSB 4x4 48RE 3.73 Leveled 285/70R17 H2s GDP MK2 Bilstein 5100s N62'd "AF" steering Custom Diesel brace MaxxLinks Modded stock airbox 4040XL
Shorts is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2012, 01:32 AM   #9 (permalink)
VP of the dry side
 
cumminsrulez's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Moses Lake, Washington
Posts: 3,329
Thanks: 320
Thanked 267 Times in 229 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Ok if I remember right this is how my boss explained it... Don't quote me exactly or get all upset cause at the moment I think this is how he did. Wax covers over the paint and doesn't really let out breath. (i know it sounds funny paint breathing) but it does need to. And when you wax it your not shining up the paint you have you covering it up with the wax (covering it up as in microscopic scratches and stuff of that sort). When you buff and polish it you are actually heating up the clear coat and smoothing it out so to speak. You remove very very little clear. And then using a polish you remove any residue from the buffing proses leaving you with a mirror finish.

On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.
__________________
97,2wd,5 spd, Moss Green, 170k,bhaf third gen intake, 4in diamond eye duals, 10 plate,afc mods, kdp,egt boost fp dp,valair street dd,23*,Haisley 5k gsk-60pounders,traction bars,.10 over gasket, A1000 custom fuel setup,4x.014 155 marine injectors,.025 dvs, 62/68/.83 t4 FMW, grid heater delete, head bolts at 135#s
cumminsrulez is offline   Quick reply to this message
The Following User Says Thank You to cumminsrulez For This Useful Post:
Shorts (05-20-2012)
Old 05-20-2012, 01:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
Diesel Freak
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 513
Thanks: 14
Thanked 136 Times in 97 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shainer View Post
Do what you want, but I wouldn't. It's a POS factory paint job. There is barely enough mills to keep the paint on the steel as it is. You want a glass finish on a truck then I recommend paying the money for a paint job, and color sanding. You also won't have any warranty on the paint if you go sanding and polishing. There is no way to tell if you are protecting the paint with wax or not until it is too late.
I figured as much. OEM's are notoriously cheap when it comes to that kind of thing.

I think I might just hit it with some of the regular or fine cut and see how far that will get me without removing too much material.

Otherwise I really don't feel like hitting a brand new truck with more clear.
BlackandChrome is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2012, 01:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
Rescue Tower
 
Shainer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,486
Thanks: 652
Thanked 1,815 Times in 1,323 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
I don't see an issue with polishing it. Material removal is minimal when just polishing. Color sanding on the other hand I would stay away from. You should clay bar it first, then polish if you think it is necessary, then wax.
__________________
Custom pinstriped Power Wheel. I started out with very little... I still have most of it. Feel free to PM me anytime.

Last edited by Shainer; 05-20-2012 at 01:54 PM.
Shainer is offline   Quick reply to this message
Old 05-20-2012, 01:52 PM   #12 (permalink)
Rescue Tower
 
Shainer's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Colorado
Posts: 10,486
Thanks: 652
Thanked 1,815 Times in 1,323 Posts
iTrader Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by cumminsrulez View Post
At the shop I work at we hate it when people wax there cars/trucks. It does more harm than good. If you want to shine it up get some 3m compound, and then a bottle of polish. We use electric buffers and even on factory paint that would be better than wax. Just my .02

On Cummins forum instead of working or doing homework.
Wax has it's purpose. Doesn't mean the average user know what that is. The surface must be clean prior to wax application. Think of was as a temporary clear coat. You wouldn't clear over dirt, so don't wax over dirt either. Once the surface is clean the wax serves a layer of protection to keep debris from seating into the paint's surface. It can help fill minor surface imperfections, but really that should be taken care of by polishing or color sanding then polishing.
__________________
Custom pinstriped Power Wheel. I started out with very little... I still have most of it. Feel free to PM me anytime.
Shainer is offline   Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Closed Thread

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:42 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

SEO by vBSEO 3.3.2