Scratches (little ones) in the clear coat on a black truck

[Megadeth]

the black box looks like it fills the scratches in, not removes them.. I guess if you wanna avoid the problem instead of correcting it it would be great.

__________________
07 5.9 G56 with a few goodies.

[Blktaws6]

Originally Posted by Megadeth

the black box looks like it fills the scratches in, not removes them.. I guess if you wanna avoid the problem instead of correcting it it would be great.

it does look like it just fills them.

If yall really want to to check your progress if trying to remove them, take some 50/50 isopropyl alcohol/water mix to check.

__________________
2007 5.9 2500 Mega Cab 4x4, Black. Willy's Whistler, Muffler MIA, AMP Tech Boards,

Billy J

[JLB85]

Most posts have been very informative and correct, but let me clear up a few things.

The Black Box contains a glaze, and is made to fill in the scratches.

Clay bar will not "pull scratches off". Clay works by removing embedded contamination, and is a good way to prep your paint before waxing or sealing. However, depending on how soft your paint is, clay bars (even mild ones) will "marr" the paint. Do not use pressure when using the clay bar. If there is hard tar and stuff, use tar remover, or body solvent, to remove, then clay, and wax (tar remover will strip wax too).

Washing is both good to do and bad. This is where you get swirls, no matter how careful you are, swirls happen. If your paint is soft, it will happen sooner. Black shows more defects than other colors. White shows the least. Does not mean the white is not swirled up, just that you cannot notice it.

Use a grit guard always, clean washing utensils, and take your time. Washing in straight lines also helps identify new scratches. If they are straight, it might have occurred while washing.

Paint from one vehicle is not equal to the same color on another vehicle. It is not equal to the same color on the same vehicle! (OEMs change paints without notice). What works on one car does not mean it will work on others.

Alcohol wiping will strip off wax and glaze. So if you are using the black box kit, don't use alcohol.

The only way to remove swirls is to polish them out, Can be done by hand, but I would spend the $150 for a Porter Cable 7424 and a few pads. Probably the only compounds you can buy over the counter that work are Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and SwirlX. Mothers might have some stuff too. I stay away from Turtle Wax anything (but they also own Zymol, which is supposed to be a German company with high end stuff, so IDK).

Use a quick detailer always. Some times you will see hazing from poor washing and cleaning. QD helps clear up the finish. I have gone back to polishing out a fine haze that remains after polishing when it was just left over product I had not removed (usually filled towels). Solution: clean towels and Alcohol wipe (or Meguiar's #34 - the best cleaning QD ever).

Take proper care of your utensils, especially your Microfiber. Buy good microfiber, not the stuff you find at the auto parts store (don't care which one). Best over the counter MF is at Target, Vroom brand orange premium MF towels. They are good, but do not last very long. You get what you pay for. Good drying MF towels run $14-16. Good general purpose MF run $5 to $9, the same for good final wipe (plush) MF towels. 16cx16 is the largest size for non-drying towels. Larger get in the way. But many towels: 4 drying, 20 general purpose, 5 final wipe, 5 glass specific no lint, etc. Buy enough to fill a load in the washer. If not, you will never get around to washing your 3 or 4 towels, or will throw them in with other materials.

If anyone wants specific advice, post up or PM!

__________________
AutoLavish Fine Automobile Detailing, South East Michigan, www.autolavish.com
The Detail Rig: 2008 stock 6.7L, 3500 Dually, 6-Speed Manual, 4x2, Recaro CS front seats, 5k HID headlights, 3.5k HID fogs, Skull Shift Knob

[Blktaws6]

Originally Posted by JLB85

Most posts have been very informative and correct, but let me clear up a few things.

The Black Box contains a glaze, and is made to fill in the scratches.

Clay bar will not "pull scratches off". Clay works by removing embedded contamination, and is a good way to prep your paint before waxing or sealing. However, depending on how soft your paint is, clay bars (even mild ones) will "marr" the paint. Do not use pressure when using the clay bar. If there is hard tar and stuff, use tar remover, or body solvent, to remove, then clay, and wax (tar remover will strip wax too).

Washing is both good to do and bad. This is where you get swirls, no matter how careful you are, swirls happen. If your paint is soft, it will happen sooner. Black shows more defects than other colors. White shows the least. Does not mean the white is not swirled up, just that you cannot notice it.

Use a grit guard always, clean washing utensils, and take your time. Washing in straight lines also helps identify new scratches. If they are straight, it might have occurred while washing.

Paint from one vehicle is not equal to the same color on another vehicle. It is not equal to the same color on the same vehicle! (OEMs change paints without notice). What works on one car does not mean it will work on others.

Alcohol wiping will strip off wax and glaze. So if you are using the black box kit, don't use alcohol.

The only way to remove swirls is to polish them out, Can be done by hand, but I would spend the $150 for a Porter Cable 7424 and a few pads. Probably the only compounds you can buy over the counter that work are Meguiar's Ultimate Compound and SwirlX. Mothers might have some stuff too. I stay away from Turtle Wax anything (but they also own Zymol, which is supposed to be a German company with high end stuff, so IDK).

Use a quick detailer always. Some times you will see hazing from poor washing and cleaning. QD helps clear up the finish. I have gone back to polishing out a fine haze that remains after polishing when it was just left over product I had not removed (usually filled towels). Solution: clean towels and Alcohol wipe (or Meguiar's #34 - the best cleaning QD ever).

Take proper care of your utensils, especially your Microfiber. Buy good microfiber, not the stuff you find at the auto parts store (don't care which one). Best over the counter MF is at Target, Vroom brand orange premium MF towels. They are good, but do not last very long. You get what you pay for. Good drying MF towels run $14-16. Good general purpose MF run $5 to $9, the same for good final wipe (plush) MF towels. 16cx16 is the largest size for non-drying towels. Larger get in the way. But many towels: 4 drying, 20 general purpose, 5 final wipe, 5 glass specific no lint, etc. Buy enough to fill a load in the washer. If not, you will never get around to washing your 3 or 4 towels, or will throw them in with other materials.

If anyone wants specific advice, post up or PM!

Definitely lots of good info. Sounds like you have a little experience.

One more thing i would suggest. Since you are spending extra $$$ on your micro-fibers, don't wash them with your regular laundry detergent and dont dryer sheets or softeners, either. Buy/Find some good micro-fiber restorer/soap for washing them. Use cool/cold water and air dry, or not heat in dryer. Helps prolong the life of them.

__________________
2007 5.9 2500 Mega Cab 4x4, Black. Willy's Whistler, Muffler MIA, AMP Tech Boards,

Billy J