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Old 11-18-2010, 09:54 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Clutch hydraulics for 79 Ford Crewcab swap

I am finally going to tear down my truck this weekend for the cummins swap.
Does anyone know if the hydraulics for the clutch linkage is interchangable from second gen to third gen bellhousings?

I am wanting to use stock Dodge components (although I like the SB and Valair HD components - just for the adjustable pushrod going into the master cylinder) and the bolt in 3rd. gen style master cylinder looks much less labor intensive than the "screw-in" 2nd. gen.

If the slave from the 3rd. gen will bolt into the 2nd. gen bellhousing, this should be a snap. I have already modified the clutch pedal and firewall for the zf5 I put in back of my 460, and the adjustable pushrod would make the bolt on style (3rd. gen) a piece of cake.

Anybody know?

Thanks,
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1979 F250 Crew Cab, 12valve/nv4500/241dld, Valair clutch, Dana 60 front/Stirling rear -3.54's, frame stretched to accomodate factory longbox http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...alve-swap.html
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Old 11-19-2010, 01:52 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The slave cylinder is the same for all year CTD trucks. The only difference is the push rod length. A getrag and a NV4500 to around 2002 use a push rod that is 5.5" long. The NV5600 and G56's use a 6.5" push rod.

The getrag and NV4500 use the same length plastic line. the NV5600 and G56 use a longer line due to different slave cylinder mounting configuration.

Master cylinders all have the same bore size. The only difference is the rod from the pedal to M/C. A 1st gen uses a push rod that is 1.375" shorter than the 2nd gen and later M/C. The bore size is the same on all M/C's.

Now for the supposed upgrade Hydr's you mentioned. The slave cylinder has the same bore size and casting number as the slave used on a 1st gen. HHHMMM no upgrade there.

The master cylinder has the same bore size and length. The push rod is longer for the different mount the 2nd gen+ use. But the M/C still has the quarter turn twist to mount into the bracket. Thats the same as all CTD's use. HHHMMM still haven't found anything upgraded yet.

The flex line and adjustable push rod are about the only thing you could call an upgrade.
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Old 11-19-2010, 02:13 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Phillip,
Thank you very much for the information.

I am surprised that the only difference is the adjustable pushrod. I was under the impression (advertising, I guess) that the upgraded hydraulics were of some super wazoo material that was stronger than the factory parts.

The only real benefit for me would be this adjustable pushrod, due to the non-stock relationship of the pedal pin and the firewall mount location. The later style mount (bolt-in instead of the twist-in) would seem to be easier from a fabrication standpoint.

My donor truck was the victim of a cab fire that melted the master cylinder, but it appears that the slave is salvagable.

From what you have revealed (thanks again) maybe I can just buy a new master and save myself a few benjamins.

Do you happen to know if replacement master cylinders come without the pushrod attached? My Ford unit did. If so I can make a "proper" length pushrod to fit my application.

I'll check at the parts store tomorrow.

Thanks again,

Pete
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1979 F250 Crew Cab, 12valve/nv4500/241dld, Valair clutch, Dana 60 front/Stirling rear -3.54's, frame stretched to accomodate factory longbox http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...alve-swap.html
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Old 11-19-2010, 11:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Most of the time you have to buy a complete hydr kit. These things are a bear to bleed out if you break a connection loose.

From Dodge you have to buy a complete kit. No single items can be had. Ford you can buy just the M/C or slave.


When I was doing my G56 swap. I called a couple of the top ranked clutch shops. I could "hear" the deer in the headlight look on the phone. When asking about clutch hydro's to fit a 1st gen to G56 swap. I ended up just running up to SBC and having them lay out all years of Dodge hydr's they had in stock. Then I picked the easyest one to mod to fit my 1st gen. The adjustable hydr's was the easyest. It uses a round shaft that can be rethreaded and shortened as need.

BTW they still don't know the difference between 1st gen and other year trucks. I didn't share any info. I did a fast look over on the dispayed hydr's and grab a setup and left. When looking at them. I knew what would be needed to modded for install at a glance. I found the slave cylinder casting number was the same after I got home. I also used snap gages and checked bore sizes.
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Old 11-19-2010, 12:10 PM   #5 (permalink)
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If it helps on your swap. A 1st gen M/C push rod measures 4. 875" from end of M/C to center of the eyelet. A 2nd gen and newer is 1.375" longer than a 1st gen M/C.
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