Twin Turbo Super Duty Fummins Build (Lots of pics) - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:29 PM Thread Starter
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Twin Turbo Super Duty Fummins Build (Lots of pics)

Hello All!

This is my build thread for my 2003 Ford Super Duty F-350 with the 6.0L. I am swapping in a 5.9 12 Valve.

I have owned my truck for 10 years, and I still love it. It has been through a lot with me, and as she starting running rougher, I gave a lot of thought about what to do. I tossed around buying a new F-350, but OMG are the prices are insane. I looked at buying a used truck, but the price to value proposition, to me, wasn’t there. I think the Cummins swap is kind of hard to justify unless it’s just something you want, but I figured what the hell, it’s the cheapest approach (or was when I started, lol) and it will be (hopefully) fun and a challenge.

I have been ogling Super Duty/Cummins swaps for years, and have read through just about every build thread I could find on the ‘net. I actually picked up a p-pumped 12 valve in 2012 (while my truck was still running well), but I chickened out and sold it a few months later.

As for my 6.0, I loved the way it performed (when running properly). I was very happy with the stock performance of the truck. My 6.0 has been mostly trouble free other than a FICM issue I fixed myself. It has never started well since I have owned it. It runs like crap until it is warm (no power, smokes, etc), and in the last couple of years it has had hard start issues. The hard start issues progressively got so bad that once cold started, I could not shut the truck off and get it start again. Obviously, I had an HPOP leak/issue.

After much agony and thought about what to do, I decided to swap the 6.0 for a Cummins

If I had to pick an awesome swap to model mine after, it would be Cut7’s. I think he did a great job on his build.

A few things about me:

I have never pulled an engine in my life, much less swapped one.

I do finance for a living, so everything I am doing I have learned from forums and youtube.

I am doing this swap by myself – no one to help, no friends with mechanical knowledge, lol..

My welds may look like something Ray Charles welded using his feet, lol, so please don’t be too rough on me. I bought a tig welder for this project, but have a lot of learning to do.

I am doing my swap in a two car garage, in a deed restricted neighborhood – no air tools. My truck fits in the garage with, no joke, a 1/4" clearance from the garage door (I actually had to remove the studs so the truck would fit).

Here is a pic of my truck:


Before my truck stopped running, I picked a low mile, 160hp VE Pumped 1993 5.9 12 Valve out of a wrecked truck.. I got everything with it, and I got to see it run in the wrecked truck:


I got it home, kinda thinking "what have I gotten myself into", lol:






It's gotta be clean! How do these engines get so disgusting??


Starting the tear down:




I had a leak on the top of the VE pump, so I decided to rebuild it:


And finally, the 6.0 threw in the towel after 228k miles. I know it's just an HPOP, but I am still on the side of the road. Luckily I was less than a mile from my house.

I hooked the strap up and am waiting for my bro-in-law with his 2015 Dodge 2500...


How fitting to get towed home by a Cummins, lol...





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post #2 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Back to the tear down… at this point the truck is in front of my house. Not quite sure how I will “back” it in to the garage, lol..








On a Harbor Freight 2k engine stand. Honestly, it feels pretty dang sturdy.




Head is coming off!


Still has the cross-hatching in the cylinder walls...


The head, ready to go to the machine shop:


Pan off, trying to decide what to do (paint it or send it to the machine shop?)



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post #3 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:35 PM Thread Starter
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Next, how to get the truck in the garage? Easy! Tow it with my bucket parts car, the Focus Wagon!


Pushing that truck with all my mite for the last few feet into the garage, the sole on my crappy shoes gave way and I went knee to concrete, no bueno


But, the truck is in! See how close the garage door is!


Time to rebuild the VE..
I bought an M&H timing spacer, Hungry Diesel fuel pin and 3800 governor spring:








Taking measurements for reassembly:




Disassembled:




All done!

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post #4 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:44 PM
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Awesome progress man! I would definitely get the cummins all refreshed and completely ready before you swap it. Having to take the motor back out after the swap is not fun good luck!!

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post #5 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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I then decided what the heck, I already have the engine down to the block and internals, it will never get this easy again, let’s go ahead and rebuild it.

On it’s way to the machine shop:




And drop off:


Now to start the tear down on 6.0:


You don’t want dirt daubers to make a home in you’re A/C! Lol..


Front end off the truck:


Fan removed, now to unbolt the torque converter:




Can you see the TC bolt, way in the back?


How to get to it:




Other than the alternators, starter and block heater, you only have to disconnect these three plugs from the drivers side:


And don’t forget the MAP sensor on the passenger side! I broke mine

And she is free! I should probably put an -ish on the end of that, lol..

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post #6 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99grinder View Post
Awesome progress man! I would definitely get the cummins all refreshed and completely ready before you swap it. Having to take the motor back out after the swap is not fun good luck!!
Thanks, Grinder. I did end up sending it to the machine shop.. I was a little late in getting my build thread started, so I am posting all the pics to bring it up to speed
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post #7 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:04 PM Thread Starter
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So I said free-ish because I could not clear the pan… so I pulled the pan and oil pickup, and she came right out:










Yours truly, excited after pulling my first engine ever! Thanks to my wife for snapping the pic.


Block at the machine shop:


So now it’s time to pressure wash the engine bay:


Thank you to my wife for being cool and letting me drag a garden house through the house to the hot water hookup in the laundry room. Hot water makes all the difference when pressure washing grease:


All clean!


No more busting knees! I rigged up a come-along to get the truck back in the garage.

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post #8 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 06:17 PM Thread Starter
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I decided while I have the engine out it would be a good time to setup hydraulic assist steering. The truck steers like crap at low speeds, so I think it will be a great upgrade. I pulled my steering box and sent it to West Texas Offroad to have it rebuilt and tapped for hydraulic lines:








I haven't mounted the ram yet...

I pulled my wiring harness from the 6.0 and labelled the connectors:



I got an adjustable non-APPS gas pedal:


And my new AHP Alpha-Tig 200X! Like I said, I weld like Ray Charles using his feet, but what the heck, you gotta learn, right?

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post #9 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 07:27 PM Thread Starter
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So this is where the build gets complicated (or really, more complicated).

I LOVED the way my 6.0 sounded, and it was an ’03 with a 10 vane turbo that sounded awesome. I was thinking of keeping my 6.0 turbo on the 12v and doing a t3 to vband and some fabbing, but ultimately decided that setup would be kind of janky. So I thought, hmmmm…. What would be a cool setup for the Cummins? Twin turbos of course! (Yes, I know they are technically compounds, but that doesn’t sound as cool

After looking around, I decided for the time and energy, it would be easiest to buy Diesel Power Source’s Twin Turbo Fummins setup. Little to no fabbing on my part, brand new turbos and a kit that fits in the 12 inches of clearance a fummins has.

I called them up, told them I have a ’93 VE for the swap and I want to make around 325hp and they say “yeah, you will love the twins, they will work great for you, low towing EGTs, great power across the entire power band, etc, yata yata”. They had two options and I went with the smallest setup - DPS 62/65/12 over S475 Turbo.


Fast forward a few days - after putting a post up on here regarding pistons for my rebuild and talking to Eric @ The Hungry Diesel, everyone is telling me it is going to take some serious fuel to light those turbos. I bought a ready-made turbo kit, and I cannot easily or cheaply go to smaller turbos.

At this point my build takes a turn from mild to somewhat wild. I begin to have concerns about the VE’s ability to fuel enough for those turbos (and I have had that concern since I chose the VE). I call up the guy who sold me the ’93 VE engine, and he had just picked up a ’98 12 valve 215hp P-pumped with a rod knock. I made a deal and bought it too.

Here it is, running, still in the truck:


And now at it's new home, in my garage:






And all the turbos, conversion parts, and some other fun stuff


From what everyone has told me, I will be knocking on the door of 600hp with this setup. Not what I intended, but I guess I will need to buy some shoes with helium in the soles

I told my wife I think I have diesel induced psychosis, lol..

So this is where I am now.

Question - I noticed the P pump is oil lubricated - is there a way to flush the oil from it, so as not to contaminate my new engine?
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post #10 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 08:57 PM
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First rebuild?? I wish I payed more attention to the details of my engine bay. Could have cleaned it more, shoulda taken out the wiring and painted it. Looks great so far! I used the same engine stand for mine. Certainly a solid stand.

To your last comment about the oil in the pump ... after a rebuild, run cheap oil and a filter for about 500 mi. And then change to the oil of your choosing and begin regular oil changes. I went to AMSOIL and after the first 5k I took a sample. My metal contaminates were high, but they will drop over time as they get filtered out.


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1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's, 4 GSK, Mac Rack Plug; TorkTek OFV; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; KDP Fix; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges

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post #11 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:05 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stox225 View Post
First rebuild?? I wish I payed more attention to the details of my engine bay. Could have cleaned it more, shoulda taken out the wiring and painted it. Looks great so far! I used the same engine stand for mine. Certainly a solid stand.

To your last comment about the oil in the pump ... after a rebuild, run cheap oil and a filter for about 500 mi. And then change to the oil of your choosing and begin regular oil changes. I went to AMSOIL and after the first 5k I took a sample. My metal contaminates were high, but they will drop over time as they get filtered out.


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Do I need to worry that the engine the p-pump came off of had a rod knock? I looked at the oil from that engine, and it *looks* fine (no shimmer or anything). I haven't pulled the p-pump off the motor yet.. I just don't want to cause an issue with my fresh motor by contaminating it with rod knock juice from the toasted 12v
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post #12 of 83 (permalink) Old 04-04-2017, 09:56 PM
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Twin Turbo Super Duty Fummins Build (Lots of pics)

I had my block bored because a couple cylinders were scored. If you get it honed/bored, make sure the shop has a honing plate. Straightens the block as if the head were on it. These blocks are stout, but do twist slightly. I would have the rods and crank balanced as well.

The contaminants would be diluted and filtered out with a fresh filter. Any metal in my oil came from the machine work. I'm not worried lol.


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1997 Cummins 2500; NV4500HD; SB DD; 315/75R16; 3rd Gen Track Bar; 63/65/14; AFC Live; 7mm DV's, 4 GSK, Mac Rack Plug; TorkTek OFV; 5x.012; Colt Cam Big Stick; 60# Springs; PDD Stage 1 Push Rods; O-Ring Head; Head Studs; KDP Fix; Fluidampr; Boost/EGT/FP Gauges

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