Heater grid

crazyredneckanyhow · 11-04-2009, 01:26 PM

So im swapping a I/C 92 5.9 into my 79 ford. How can i set up the heater grid in my truck? I already scrapped the truck so i dont have the factory parts.

plumb crazy ford · 11-05-2009, 12:14 AM

Use a ford or winch solinoid on a switch.

__________________
79 F-350 sc.flat bed,dana 60 front dana 80 ltd.slip rear.95 cummins/5spd and transfer case.custom ground #10 plate.

fordtrucknut · 11-07-2009, 02:26 AM

Do you have any pics or diagrams of how you did it??

***Cummins6speed*** · 11-07-2009, 02:59 AM

You will need a solenoid. I am not sure what the amperage is. Switch on one side and the battery cables to the heater on the other

__________________
My truck: 06 5.9 G56 4x4 Quad Cab Short Bed Patriot Blue. Smarty TNT, Valair 3600DD, DiPricol's, Home made intake w/ amsoil filter, Straight Piped w/ 7" tip, silencer ring MIA, glove box sticker MIA 2/28/09-470hp/980tq

IBEW 551-PACIFIC COAST DIESEL

American Thunder · 11-07-2009, 09:24 AM

There, I made you one of my (in)famous diagrams.

__________________
1978 Bronco - 1991 12V, Dynamic C6 Ford auto with billet torque converter, NP205 case, 3.50:1 lockers. 9" lift, 35" tires, 366 spring, pump mods. - Still under construction.

Casper · 11-07-2009, 09:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by American Thunder

There, I made you one of my (in)famous diagrams.

nice diagram, that helps me out too, do u need to put a fuse in their somewhere and if so what amp?

__________________
96 12v 215 P-pump, kdp done, silencer ring mod, bd diesel boost elbow, 60lb intake/exhaust springs, 4k gsk and soon to be in my 1995 F250 On the bench-afc spring kit, 100plate and 16 degrees of timing

plumb crazy ford · 11-07-2009, 09:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Casper

nice diagram, that helps me out too, do u need to put a fuse in their somewhere and if so what amp?

put a 5 amp fuse between the battery and the switch.i have a light mounted in the cab to remind me its on.

__________________
79 F-350 sc.flat bed,dana 60 front dana 80 ltd.slip rear.95 cummins/5spd and transfer case.custom ground #10 plate.

4wydnr · 11-07-2009, 10:51 AM

Personally I would use a momentary switch because I know I would forget it and leave it on even with a light.

__________________
2001 F-250 7.3 with some add ons
1977 F-250 12v conversion in progress

carhartted · 11-07-2009, 12:52 PM

I would use a momentary toggle switch. It may not seem too bad but your finger will get tired trying to hold the push button in for 30 seconds at a time.

I used to drive a truck with a Murphy switch setup. When it had a hard time starting you had to keep the override pushed in. I would have changed it but it wasn't my truck.

__________________
1965 Ford Crewcab 4x4 currently undergoing a 12V conversion. See it in the conversion section.

Casper · 11-07-2009, 02:15 PM

thanx i plan on using a push start switch. i forgot once to turn off my fuel heater on my wvo system and totally killed my batteries

__________________
96 12v 215 P-pump, kdp done, silencer ring mod, bd diesel boost elbow, 60lb intake/exhaust springs, 4k gsk and soon to be in my 1995 F250 On the bench-afc spring kit, 100plate and 16 degrees of timing

American Thunder · 11-07-2009, 06:35 PM

I forgot to draw in the circuit breaker, but I'm putting it between the solenoid and the heater, in case something bad happens, it will kill the power to it.
For the light, I'm just running a wire from the grid heater positive terminal to the dashboard.
Since I'll be using the heater for 30 seconds or more, I'll pick out a switch that's really easy to push.. Actually a footswitch might work good, too, if I can find a spot for it.(already have the headlight switch down there)

__________________
1978 Bronco - 1991 12V, Dynamic C6 Ford auto with billet torque converter, NP205 case, 3.50:1 lockers. 9" lift, 35" tires, 366 spring, pump mods. - Still under construction.

Last edited by American Thunder : 11-07-2009 at 06:37 PM.

ykdave · 11-09-2009, 11:08 PM

FYI the grid heater elements will draw 95amps a piece @ 12v (higher if the voltage drops), make sure that you use a solenoid(s) capable of handling this.

__________________
97 Ram 2500 / 5.9ctd /NV4500/241DHD
Custom Intake Tube+ BHAF, Pump Tuning, Autometer Pyro and Boost gauges, Dual 4" stacks, 33x12.5 Mud terrains, posi-lok, One Hella sound system, tons more to come

11-04-2009, 01:26 PM	#1 (permalink)
crazyredneckanyhow Cummins Fan Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 30 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post crazyredneckanyhow's Truck Pics	Heater grid So im swapping a I/C 92 5.9 into my 79 ford. How can i set up the heater grid in my truck? I already scrapped the truck so i dont have the factory parts.

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11-05-2009, 12:14 AM	#2 (permalink)
plumb crazy ford Cummins Fan Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: colorado Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts plumb crazy ford's Truck Pics	Use a ford or winch solinoid on a switch. __________________ 79 F-350 sc.flat bed,dana 60 front dana 80 ltd.slip rear.95 cummins/5spd and transfer case.custom ground #10 plate.

11-07-2009, 02:26 AM	#3 (permalink)
fordtrucknut Newbie Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 17 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts fordtrucknut's Truck Pics	Do you have any pics or diagrams of how you did it??

11-07-2009, 02:59 AM	#4 (permalink)
*Cummins6speed* Cummins Crazy Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Petaluma, CA Posts: 5,296 Thanks: 88 Thanked 121 Times in 98 Posts Cummins6speed's Truck Pics	You will need a solenoid. I am not sure what the amperage is. Switch on one side and the battery cables to the heater on the other __________________ My truck: 06 5.9 G56 4x4 Quad Cab Short Bed Patriot Blue. Smarty TNT, Valair 3600DD, DiPricol's, Home made intake w/ amsoil filter, Straight Piped w/ 7" tip, silencer ring MIA, glove box sticker MIA 2/28/09-470hp/980tq IBEW 551-PACIFIC COAST DIESEL

11-07-2009, 09:24 AM	#5 (permalink)
American Thunder Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Upstate New York Posts: 175 Thanks: 5 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts American Thunder's Truck Pics	There, I made you one of my (in)famous diagrams. __________________ 1978 Bronco - 1991 12V, Dynamic C6 Ford auto with billet torque converter, NP205 case, 3.50:1 lockers. 9" lift, 35" tires, 366 spring, pump mods. - Still under construction.

11-07-2009, 10:51 AM	#8 (permalink)
4wydnr Cummins Fan Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 96 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post 4wydnr's Truck Pics	Personally I would use a momentary switch because I know I would forget it and leave it on even with a light. __________________ 2001 F-250 7.3 with some add ons 1977 F-250 12v conversion in progress

11-07-2009, 12:52 PM	#9 (permalink)
carhartted Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post carhartted's Truck Pics	I would use a momentary toggle switch. It may not seem too bad but your finger will get tired trying to hold the push button in for 30 seconds at a time. I used to drive a truck with a Murphy switch setup. When it had a hard time starting you had to keep the override pushed in. I would have changed it but it wasn't my truck. __________________ 1965 Ford Crewcab 4x4 currently undergoing a 12V conversion. See it in the conversion section.

11-07-2009, 02:15 PM	#10 (permalink)
Casper Cummins Fan Join Date: May 2009 Location: Terrace B.C. Posts: 84 Thanks: 3 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts Casper's Truck Pics	thanx i plan on using a push start switch. i forgot once to turn off my fuel heater on my wvo system and totally killed my batteries __________________ 96 12v 215 P-pump, kdp done, silencer ring mod, bd diesel boost elbow, 60lb intake/exhaust springs, 4k gsk and soon to be in my 1995 F250 On the bench-afc spring kit, 100plate and 16 degrees of timing

11-07-2009, 06:35 PM	#11 (permalink)
American Thunder Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Upstate New York Posts: 175 Thanks: 5 Thanked 7 Times in 7 Posts American Thunder's Truck Pics	I forgot to draw in the circuit breaker, but I'm putting it between the solenoid and the heater, in case something bad happens, it will kill the power to it. For the light, I'm just running a wire from the grid heater positive terminal to the dashboard. Since I'll be using the heater for 30 seconds or more, I'll pick out a switch that's really easy to push.. Actually a footswitch might work good, too, if I can find a spot for it.(already have the headlight switch down there) __________________ 1978 Bronco - 1991 12V, Dynamic C6 Ford auto with billet torque converter, NP205 case, 3.50:1 lockers. 9" lift, 35" tires, 366 spring, pump mods. - Still under construction. Last edited by American Thunder : 11-07-2009 at 06:37 PM.

11-09-2009, 11:08 PM	#12 (permalink)
ykdave Diesel Head Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Yellowknife, NT, Canada Posts: 3,853 Thanks: 0 Thanked 76 Times in 62 Posts ykdave's Truck Pics	FYI the grid heater elements will draw 95amps a piece @ 12v (higher if the voltage drops), make sure that you use a solenoid(s) capable of handling this. __________________ 97 Ram 2500 / 5.9ctd /NV4500/241DHD Custom Intake Tube+ BHAF, Pump Tuning, Autometer Pyro and Boost gauges, Dual 4" stacks, 33x12.5 Mud terrains, posi-lok, One Hella sound system, tons more to come