78' F350 Crew Cab Cummins build.

[1800joedaddy]

Not much noteworthy progress other than getting the stubborn 12V and Getrag out and into the back of my PSD. My youngest helper wanted a little screen time to.



It seems to me like the frame and crossmembers are very simular. Just a little measuring shows that by swapping r/l motor mount will put the lower holes an inch or so inward of the exsisting crossmember. I should know more next weekend.

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95' DRW Cummins auto - 96' PSD - 79' F-350 Cummins Crewcab shortbed dually And Oh Yah, Ohio State SUCKS!!! My build http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...ins-build.html

[ChaseTruck754]

cross members do look similar - but I always remember people with the 2wd Fords ing about the oil pan on cross member clearance. I look forward to seeing what you find!

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My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

[1800joedaddy]

Didn't do much this weekend, watched a lot of very bad football. Got the front fuel tank out (2hrs!) and decided the control arm crossmember will have to be modded and new towers will need to be made on to the front of the factory 1's.

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95' DRW Cummins auto - 96' PSD - 79' F-350 Cummins Crewcab shortbed dually And Oh Yah, Ohio State SUCKS!!! My build http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...ins-build.html

[crazyredneckanyhow]

subscribed for sure

[1800joedaddy]

It's been slow going. I wanted to get the dually conversion and bed frame chopped before mounting the engine/trans but while taking out the gas tank, and both crossmembers I found many broken leaf springs. So while I'm waiting on some donor springs I got the front hubs swapped. This was suprisingly easy, absolute bolt-in . Next I'll start the chopping, have to admit I'm a little nervous but I'm going a standard shortbed length so if I jack the bed at least theres another option. Since the bed has some side damage it's a win win! Wish me luck!

Here's the Dually hub, I went with GM wheels because the rear will match-up spare wise.



On a side note I scored this mint 76' super cab for my 13 yr old daughter and I to restore which will luckily require little. I am looking for a dr side front body mount bucket, this ones toast! Any ideas?

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95' DRW Cummins auto - 96' PSD - 79' F-350 Cummins Crewcab shortbed dually And Oh Yah, Ohio State SUCKS!!! My build http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...ins-build.html

[FOverRebuiltDodge]

Originally Posted by 1800joedaddy

I am looking for a dr side front body mount bucket, this ones toast! Any ideas?

LMC Trucks has almost everything for the older trucks. And if they dont have it, try National Parts Depot.

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78 Ford F250, 24 valve from a 2001, NV4500, NP241dhd, 6” lift, 35” tires, holley blue pump, homemade fuel filter setup(think fass or airdog), apps inside cab. You can buy what they think you want or you can make it yourself. F.O.R.D. build and truck Pics

[willflow]

Originally Posted by 1800joedaddy

Got the 14bolt Gm Corp dually rear out from under the 79', had to let the crusher yard cut the U-bolts. I only losend 2 nut before pulling a muscle in my back The hot wrench is soooooo much faster/easier. Unfortunatly I forgot to grab the under-axle plates and left them on the ground

Got the front clip disected and pulled (tip; have a friend help you so you don't have to pull the damned thing in 6 pieces!) and guess what... NO RUST!!!!

Took some pics from the front so ya'll could see my clearence, or lack thereof. Tell me what you think, does the 2wd have more/less room than the 4wd? or is it about the same?

I took this pic because it's the 1st midwest 70's Ford I've seen that didn't rust here on the inner fender shoulder mount or have siezed bolts.

In 79 they used dana 70HD rear ends. It is actually better than a 14 bolt. Less common but stronger. I have the same one in my 79 chevy crew cab 4x4 that is getting a 12 valve as we seak.......er type. Cool build, I say bag it and drag it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[ChaseTruck754]

Originally Posted by 1800joedaddy

I am looking for a dr side front body mount bucket, this ones toast! Any ideas

Got pics of what you need? I'm pretty sure I have one lying around.

Also - nice score on the supercab!!!

Originally Posted by willflow

In 79 they used dana 70HD rear ends. It is actually better than a 14 bolt. Less common but stronger. I have the same one in my 79 chevy crew cab 4x4 that is getting a 12 valve as we seak.......er type. Cool build, I say bag it and drag it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

so there's 2 things we disagree on. I'll take the corp 14 over the 70 for sure. If you want to know why - I'll post some pics of the d70 shafts my buddy kept breaking (500+ cubic inches and 42" tires will do that). He has yet to break a corp 14 axle....

And then we have lowering trucks - no thanks

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My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

[StealthDiesel]

One factor of going 4wd vs. 2wd on Ford 3/4-1 ton trucks would be the very crude Twin-I beam that Ford still uses on their 2wd trucks.

While very simple & reliable, the twin-I beam front suspension is brutal at best.
It's very difficult to change the ride height on this type of suspension w/out using custom I-beams for camber correction.

To try to reduce tire wear from the terrible camber swing, you need really stiff front springs and shocks.


Like all really crude suspension systems, like my 5.0L Mustang, to make it handle half decent you need to restrict all movement. Which makes the ride terrible.


Just my thoughts...Joe

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2004.5 Dodge SB QC 2500 2wd Cummins 600/6spd manual/3.73 LSD
Silver "Stealth Diesel"

Autometer Phantoms: Pyro, boost, fuel & oil pressure, water temp.
Edge Juice/Attitude. Smarty. Glacier Diesel intake, fuel & filter system.
MBRP S.S. muffler. BD short shifter. Brakesmart tow controller.
BD exhaust brake. Pullrite 24k Superglide.

[ChaseTruck754]

for most this "crude" system is more than good enough.

For simple strength and reliability it is great. Yes it is harder to find a REAL alignment shop that can adjust the camber in these things - especially because you have to bend the beams to do it on the old ones. New ones have ball joints so eccentric cams can fix basic ride height changes.



Fixing the camber after lifting isn't a big deal for people like me. This is what we do to them...



Or you can do this - so you can have camber correction. WAY overkill for most - but good for race applications

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My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

[StealthDiesel]

I agree, the twin-I beam is reliable & rugged.

Our needs are likely very different, but for street trucks the camber change during suspension articulation is really why I feel the Twin-I beam is crude.

Compare the front tire wear on a 2wd Dodge with double A-arms to a 2wd Ford with twin-I beams.

I'm a 2wd guy & my 2wd Dodge is very slightly lowered but the front suspension is superior to a Twin-I beam setup's I've owned in 2wd 1/2 ton F150's.

It's not a totally valid comparison since my Dodge is a 3/4 ton with a Cummins in it & has superior rack & pinion steering..
versus my last Ford truck which was a '92 F150 2wd with a 351W gas engine.

__________________
2004.5 Dodge SB QC 2500 2wd Cummins 600/6spd manual/3.73 LSD
Silver "Stealth Diesel"

Autometer Phantoms: Pyro, boost, fuel & oil pressure, water temp.
Edge Juice/Attitude. Smarty. Glacier Diesel intake, fuel & filter system.
MBRP S.S. muffler. BD short shifter. Brakesmart tow controller.
BD exhaust brake. Pullrite 24k Superglide.

[ChaseTruck754]

Yeah - different deals for different purposes.

Lots of camber change through the suspension cycle for beams but they are cheap and easy to build and get travel out of off road.

Personally I'd say the Dodge 2wd susp. setup (a-arms and coil) on my 91 was pure crap - but that's just me.

I'm building a 74 F-100 with kingpin end I-beams and a 351w - so you and I obviously have different opinions on what we like and want to drive

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My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html