1965 Ford Crewcab 12 valve conversion - Page 3

***HRDROKN*** · 01-24-2009, 07:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carhartted

This truck is a factory crew cab. No one knows how many were produced, but consensus is not very many.

Interesting.... And I thought all this time that the 69 was the first year Ford made the Crew and that all previous constructions were contracted out. I think I'll have to persue this question on FTE or Fordification... someone has to know! Of course the person that does could be 6ft under by now!

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1969 Ford Crew Cab Cummins Conversion...
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

***HRDROKN*** · 01-24-2009, 08:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carhartted

I also need to make some roof supports to go on the inside. The rear portion will "oil can" when going down a rough road. Ans any road is a rough road in this truck.

Hey Carhartted... I would like to see a pic of the bottom side of the roof if you can?

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1969 Ford Crew Cab Cummins Conversion...
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

carhartted · 01-24-2009, 03:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HRDROKN

Hey Carhartted... I would like to see a pic of the bottom side of the roof if you can?

I will take some pics when I get home from work tonight and post them up.

As far as getting done before you, who knows. I hope to have it done in 4 weeks or so, but I work one week on one week off, so I probably have a little more time to work on it.

carhartted · 01-24-2009, 03:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HRDROKN

Interesting.... And I thought all this time that the 69 was the first year Ford made the Crew and that all previous constructions were contracted out. I think I'll have to persue this question on FTE or Fordification... someone has to know! Of course the person that does could be 6ft under by now!

That is where I got my information. The conversion trucks have the rear door hinges outside the body, like a Model A. Also, on my vin tag the wheel base is longer than a standard cab. I can't remember what it is now.

carhartted · 01-24-2009, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HRDROKN

I think that if I was doing this over again that I would use something more forgiving. My biggest concern is too much vibration being transfered to the rest of the chassis!

Do you think rubber instead of poly or go with the original mounts?

***HRDROKN*** · 01-24-2009, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carhartted

Do you think rubber instead of poly or go with the original mounts?

I like the big round rubber factory mounts for isolation.... just wasn't sure how much they would let the motor move and/or sag as they wear. I think Chase went with the factory rubber, if I'm remembering correctly.

Poly mounts are used in many extreme aftermarket applications... as far as durability, I think they are fine! And good welds will help....

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1969 Ford Crew Cab Cummins Conversion...
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

carhartted · 01-25-2009, 02:09 AM

Here are the pics of the roof. There is no obvious seam, but it is pretty dirty.

Here are my motor mounts installed on the engine, they will be boxed in later.

First I leveled the truck frame my gargae floor is sloped towards the middle. I laid the motor back 3 degrees, and leveled it side to side.

The engine side of the mounts were bolted to the engine and the frame standoffs were measured. They were cut, then welded to the tube that my poly bushings fit.

The poly bushings were put in the tubes and tubes and standoffs were tacked to the frame.

After I was done I found out I did not measure good enough and the motor is off center at the transmission a inch or so. I will have to remove the passenger side mount and retack it.

***HRDROKN*** · 01-25-2009, 03:18 AM

Ya, that roof doesn't have any bracing!

Mounts are looking good!

__________________
1969 Ford Crew Cab Cummins Conversion...
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

Last edited by HRDROKN : 01-25-2009 at 03:22 AM.

ChaseTruck754 · 01-26-2009, 04:42 PM

looking good!

__________________
My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

carhartted · 01-27-2009, 02:01 AM

I made some more progress today. I am making the transmission crossmember.

Here is the stock Dodge piece. I thought about using it but decided to make one from scratch.

Here is what I have to work with. I am going to use the same poly bushing that I used on the motor mounts.

I used a hole saw and cut a hole that the tuning fits in. I then cut it in half. This gave me two saddles for the tube to sit in.

I made a plate that matches the bolt pattern on the back of the trans.

The I welded it all up.

I used some 2x4 1/8 wall tubing for the crossmember. I made the part that bolts to the transmission first. I made some ears to fit the poly bushing and tacked it on. Here it is bolted up.

I will box 10 inches of the frame and weld the crossmember in.

ChaseTruck754 · 01-27-2009, 02:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by carhartted

I will box 10 inches of the frame and weld the crossmember in.

Lookin pretty good. I would strongly consider making the cross member bolt it, rather than welding it in though. I personally prefer to make everything bolt in and out. If done right it is just as strong as one that is welded in, AND you have the option of unbolting it to get it out of your way if you need/want to later. Sure it takes a little extra work now, but I have found in the past that the time spent now is time SAVED later from grinding/cutting out something that was welded in and shhouldn't have been.

That's just me though, and is probably why my projects take so long. I am overly anal and take too much time on everything - haha.

__________________
My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

carhartted · 01-28-2009, 02:21 AM

More progress today. I worked on the transmission crossmember.

I boxed in the frame where the crossmember will be going.

I need to know the angle of the side peices so I can make them line up. I use the square and the angle finder. This one was 30 degrees, which makes it easier.

I use a horizontal band saw for this. I am using 2x4 box tubing. Set the fence to cut 30 degree angle on one end.

In order for the tubes to line up when done the angle must be split in half and that half needs to be taken off each tube you want to join. In this case it's 15 degrees.

The 15 degree cut needs to be done on the middle peice as well.

Here it is on the bench.

Tacked in place.

I thought about making is bolt in, but this one should not be in the way when I go to pull the engine out.

I also got my motor mounts boxed in.

Next I need to make the crossmember that goes under the motor. That one I will make it bolt in.

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01-25-2009, 02:09 AM	#31 (permalink)
carhartted Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post carhartted's Truck Pics	Here are the pics of the roof. There is no obvious seam, but it is pretty dirty. Here are my motor mounts installed on the engine, they will be boxed in later. First I leveled the truck frame my gargae floor is sloped towards the middle. I laid the motor back 3 degrees, and leveled it side to side. The engine side of the mounts were bolted to the engine and the frame standoffs were measured. They were cut, then welded to the tube that my poly bushings fit. The poly bushings were put in the tubes and tubes and standoffs were tacked to the frame. After I was done I found out I did not measure good enough and the motor is off center at the transmission a inch or so. I will have to remove the passenger side mount and retack it.

01-25-2009, 03:18 AM	#32 (permalink)
*HRDROKN* Prestige Worldwide Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Nor-Cal Posts: 463 Thanks: 41 Thanked 2 Times in 2 Posts HRDROKN's Truck Pics	Ya, that roof doesn't have any bracing! Mounts are looking good! __________________ 1969 Ford Crew Cab Cummins Conversion... http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html Last edited by HRDROKN : 01-25-2009 at 03:22 AM.

01-26-2009, 04:42 PM	#33 (permalink)
ChaseTruck754 Diesel Freak Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: Costa Mesa, CA Posts: 847 Thanks: 0 Thanked 9 Times in 9 Posts ChaseTruck754's Truck Pics	looking good! __________________ My cummins swap - 1974 Ford Crew cab http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...-crew-cab.html

01-27-2009, 02:01 AM	#34 (permalink)
carhartted Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post carhartted's Truck Pics	I made some more progress today. I am making the transmission crossmember. Here is the stock Dodge piece. I thought about using it but decided to make one from scratch. Here is what I have to work with. I am going to use the same poly bushing that I used on the motor mounts. I used a hole saw and cut a hole that the tuning fits in. I then cut it in half. This gave me two saddles for the tube to sit in. I made a plate that matches the bolt pattern on the back of the trans. The I welded it all up. I used some 2x4 1/8 wall tubing for the crossmember. I made the part that bolts to the transmission first. I made some ears to fit the poly bushing and tacked it on. Here it is bolted up. I will box 10 inches of the frame and weld the crossmember in.

01-28-2009, 02:21 AM	#36 (permalink)
carhartted Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Fairbanks, Alaska Posts: 120 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post carhartted's Truck Pics	More progress today. I worked on the transmission crossmember. I boxed in the frame where the crossmember will be going. I need to know the angle of the side peices so I can make them line up. I use the square and the angle finder. This one was 30 degrees, which makes it easier. I use a horizontal band saw for this. I am using 2x4 box tubing. Set the fence to cut 30 degree angle on one end. In order for the tubes to line up when done the angle must be split in half and that half needs to be taken off each tube you want to join. In this case it's 15 degrees. The 15 degree cut needs to be done on the middle peice as well. Here it is on the bench. Tacked in place. I thought about making is bolt in, but this one should not be in the way when I go to pull the engine out. I also got my motor mounts boxed in. Next I need to make the crossmember that goes under the motor. That one I will make it bolt in.