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Old 12-09-2010, 12:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Bottom of door skin replacement

I have not done body work before so I am most likely going to take it to a body shop but was wondering how hard and how long would it take to replace the bottom 1/3 of the door skin on an 01 dodge? You can get the skin at JC Whitney for $60 instead of buying a whole door skin or door.

I am guessing they would have to cut the old one out and weld the new one in, then grind it down smooth, bondo it, sand it, then paint it, or is it more involved?

Anyone have any luck doing it themself?
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:55 PM   #2 (permalink)
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most shops leave the old skin on, all they do is grind the edges off and overlap the new peice to the old skin and spot weld. This saves time in labour. Miself I cut the old metal out and butweld the new and old together, grind smooth and I apply a thin coat of fiberglass before I put bodyfiller just incase I have pinholes in my weld moisture wont bleed through and cause bubbles in the finish later on. for a first timer doing it ourself, I would say it would take you a good part of the day, if you have welding skills a little less.
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Old 12-16-2010, 02:22 PM   #3 (permalink)
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ok. This gives me a little more input. Thanks stephaner142. If thats all there going to do is lay it over the old one it should be a little cheaper than what I was orginally thinking.
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Old 12-16-2010, 02:29 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I wouldn't let them leave the old on there. How the heck are you going to make that look good? That would also create the perfect area for debris to collect which will hold water and rust even faster and more throughly. Trying to half a$$ it would take longer because of the filling and sanding to try and hide the leading edge of the new panel. Bad bad idea there.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:13 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I'm just saying that's how most body shops do it where I'm from. I've done it to my own mustang's door and it's still holding up. Where's the debris doing settle? There's no room, the metal's is stuck together. If the job's done right it require's very little filler. You can request to have the old sqin removed and but welded, might cost more. Get three quotes to get the best deal.
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Old 12-16-2010, 03:34 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I am doing the doors on my 51 right now

Cut door skin off



Put a 45 on new skin



Put new skin butted up to door and weld



Tack in place



Bend lip around



Finish welding



Grind and wirewheel



Put coat of fibrepatch on



Sand down fibrepatch



Finish seam with bondo

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Old 12-16-2010, 03:55 PM   #7 (permalink)
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You guys are missing the point here this is exatly how I would do it, I was just saying that's how most shops do it up here unless you specify otherwise, it will cost more in labour to remove the old steel and but weld. You still get the same results. If you plan on going the work yourself then take your time and get rid of all the bad steel and start welding.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Oh, I know your point. I was showing the PROPER way to do it to last a lifetime. A body shop isn't gonna do it that way. They are going to dolly it down where the new skin goes over the old one, spot weld the skin over, bondo it up, bend the lip around and be done with it.
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Yes, exactly, sorry guys sometimes I have a hard time expressing miself on the keyboard...
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Old 12-16-2010, 04:43 PM   #10 (permalink)
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I get what you are saying too. I've never left a panel on, and covered it. I still think that would look like crap. Open that door and seeing it be 4x thicker at the bottom. Lots of labor to get it smooth across the surface weld. No thank you, not in my shop.
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:15 PM   #11 (permalink)
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The thickness of the door skins you buy today you would hardly notice LOL. And it won't be much thicker. You are only adding the thickness of two pieces of very thin tin. I made my panels out of 19 gauge and it still wasn't as thick as the factory panel
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