6.7L Heater delete and performance airhorn install - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old 07-31-2011, 11:34 PM Thread Starter
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6.7L Heater delete and performance airhorn install

Well we had another nice day today so i got out this am and got some work done. Got to install these 2 parts. I also had a boost tube i was gonna install but turns out it was for a 2007 to 2009. Ill have more down the road on that one. But heres my install pics and stuff. Hopefully this will help someone out. I really didnt take as many pics as i wanted cause i wasin abit of a hurry.

First remove your dipstick bracket



Now remove the intake horn



Now take this nut off here and theres also one on the other side take it off too.



Take the CAC clamp off and pull the hose off.



Now take all your fuel lines off including the FPRV line *SAVE THE WASHER FOR THIS



Now remove the bolts out the rail and the plate for the heater and unplug the FRPsensor



Now clean off the bolts thread sealer so you can install new stuff.



Kinda ran outta pics but anyways swap over the MAT sensor to the delete plate. The map sensor over to the new air horn. Reasse in reverse order. Be careful not to drop anything into the head and clean your surfaces. Also DO NOT TRY AND CRACK THE LINES TO BLEED THE SYSTEM. If you do this it can spray you and itll cut you and give you wonderful blood poisoning. Seen a old timer do this on a CR system once thinking it was like the old mechanicals. So once you get it all back together and youll see theres less clamp holding wires on. Just zip tie em up. So now youll wanna crank it over and have it start. You can crack it for a while. Some guys wont crank for more than 10 secs but cranking it for 40sec or so wont hurt it.

Youll also need to install the dipstick brack on the breather








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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-01-2011, 10:45 PM
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Did you do a Grid heater relocate? If not how does it start in the cold(could you post a video of cold start)? Want to do it to mine but I don't know how hard it will start without it?

DD: 2007.5 Dodge RAM 2500 QC/SB,2WD,6.7L, 3.73 gears switch to 3:42, DPF and EGR + Cooler Delete, EFI Live. 119k miles on 04/08/2014. Stock trans and head gasket(no studs). deleted since 40k miles run the efi on race all the time, ran h&s175hd and smarty level 9 before efi.

When I get time to restore: 1969 Chevrolet Custom Camper/20 350 with turbo 400 trans 68,000 original miles (was my great-grandfathers)
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-14-2011, 08:59 AM
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I can't see the pics, are they still there or is my browser goofed?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-21-2011, 08:12 AM
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old 12-26-2011, 10:29 AM
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Browser must be goofed, the pics are still there.

Yes he did use the grid heater relocation kit. You can see the studs and grid heater mounting bolts in the throttle valve.

Back in the common snail game. 03 SO 2wd 480,000 miles and counting.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-24-2012, 05:23 PM
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Can I ask what is the clear nylon tubing being used for.

Thanks,
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-24-2012, 05:34 PM
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Mechanical boost gauge.

Back in the common snail game. 03 SO 2wd 480,000 miles and counting.
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-24-2012, 07:19 PM
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OK, I see where you had it hooked to the front inner bolt on the OEM air horn and now to the back of the Shibby Horn.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old 04-11-2015, 10:13 PM
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How do you release the fuel pressure before you remove the lines?

What are the torque values on the intake bolts?
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