Poor mans propane setup, help needed

[patracy]

Originally Posted by Challenger

Patracy how is the Hindenburg coming along?Did you notice the ats propane injection system that Captain 23 has forsale on this site?What do you think of that system,I can't figure out what those coolent lines are all about,Your thread is interstingly creative,good use of humour as well,thanks Mom

The hindenburg hasn't spontaneously combusted yet. I've upgraded the regulator to a adjustable one though. I've not had reason to go anywhere in it for a distance to check mileage out yet though. But since the new regulator, I can tell when the propane "hits". It's not a lot of power, but enough to notice. Right now I'm focusing on my Xilliraider and WVO setup. I'll get some numbers on propane first though.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[mailman1175]

Originally Posted by gfyrasng

From my understanding it's also to help convert the liquid propane into a gaseous propane.

I'm pretty sure physics does that for you. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the increase in temps between the bottle and the cylinder should be plenty to vaporize propane.

As for the ATS (or any aftermarket) system, if you're flowing low pressures of propane for economy gains (and again: Correct me if I'm wrong), I doubt you'll have to worry about your regulator freezing up. It's only at the high-psi flow rates that you'd use for performance gains that you're likely to have that problem.

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'94 3500 DRW 4x4; auto; 4.10 gearing; 10' flat bed; BHAF/heatshield; FBD budget 5" TBE w/ cat delete

[patracy]

Originally Posted by mailman1175

I'm pretty sure physics does that for you. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the increase in temps between the bottle and the cylinder should be plenty to vaporize propane.

As for the ATS (or any aftermarket) system, if you're flowing low pressures of propane for economy gains (and again: Correct me if I'm wrong), I doubt you'll have to worry about your regulator freezing up. It's only at the high-psi flow rates that you'd use for performance gains that you're likely to have that problem.

Correct.

Take a look at a cutting torch with propane. There's no preheating there. They don't freeze. lt's in the volume. Now when you have these kits pumping in 100hp or massive amounts to replace diesel, that's when stuff starts to freeze up.

Mine is vaporized well by the time it hits the intake tube. It's got about 20ft of hose to travel. And gets warmed up pretty well just before the intake from radiator heat.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[mailman1175]

Originally Posted by patracy

Correct.

It's good to know that I have some days when I get something right.

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'94 3500 DRW 4x4; auto; 4.10 gearing; 10' flat bed; BHAF/heatshield; FBD budget 5" TBE w/ cat delete

[patracy]

And the update you've all been waiting for!

I drove 156.6 miles today. Mainly interstate. But for 1.5hrs I was in stop and go traffic, I turned off the system for that due to surging. I'm running about 6psi of propane set to turn on at ~3psi. Fuel needed to fill up....

5.4 gallons!

For a diesel mileage of 29mpg!!!!!!

Here's some funny shots from the lie-o-meter on the way out downhill. I didn't know it could count that high!



And here's another pic of the distance to empty. It definitely can't count that high.


I'm very happy. Well worth the work and little money. I do know one thing I need to change though. On the way back my regulator froze. I'm going to wrap it with some electrical heating wire.

I know it's hard to believe. But even I was skeptical about the mileage. But I used the same pump to fill to the click, then refilled from the same pump.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[bob4x4]

How many gallons of propane did you go through? what is the cost of propane per Gallon now?

Bob

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05 2500 4x4 Advanced dominator 3.0 suspension+long travel airbags by Carli Baja proven

[patracy]

Don't know yet. The tank isn't empty yet. The refill rate is $15 out here. It'll be cheaper if I can get a per gallon rate. (Save about 4-5) Others are getting a tank of propane for a tank of diesel. If that holds true....

$125 for a tank of diesel to go 600 miles.
$140 for a tank of diesel and propane to go 1000 miles.

It'd cost about $205 to go 1000 miles on diesel alone.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[Clayten]

I have played with this to. I used two regulators. One was off of the propane tank just a normal BBQ reg, then after that a accetalyene gauge. This gave a constant pressure with no changes do to weather changes.You will notice that as your tank cools and heats during the day.
Your tank valve will freeze. So that is why you want to run liquid not vapor and have a mister, that engine coolant runs through to change it to vapor. Similar to the Bully Dog system.
Bottles and misters can come from a forklift style propane power.Another problem with running mist from the supply tank you can get a big shoot of liquid if you hit a big bump.That will make a bad day for you.

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94 SLT Laramie. 4x4, NV 4500, Pac brake, 100 plate,AFC & plate full forward, 4" global warmer, K&N FIPK,K&N dry charger, bully dog boost and pyro gauge, Firestone air bags, Street pilot GPS, Rancho 9000 shocks, dual friction clutch, Frantz oil cleaner

[patracy]

Or I could just use the internals I have left over from a electric 12v coffee mug. That will work great. Has a temp sensor too.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[I-6DZL]

Originally Posted by patracy

Or I could just use the internals I have left over from a electric 12v coffee mug. That will work great. Has a temp sensor too.

LOL, change your name to scrounge...... Looks like you're "scrounging" around for anything that will work. I'm the same way, no big dollar B.S. here, just flat out plain and simple "what ever works". haha.

I was also thinking about building a pane system for my truck. Does pane actually cool, or heat egt's. A couple posts ago someone was going to put a shopping list together, i'd deffinately love to see this.

Do you think someone may get better mileage with a 12v, due to the inefficiencies (sp?) of the head and mech injection?

Thanks for this post!!!

Curtis

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98 QC 4x4 SB 12V, DTT, DDP3's, HX-40,3K-GSK,#4 plate,AFE,Di-Pricol guages,ATS Ex-Manifold,Flex-A-Lite 262,AGR Steering box,RS5000's Even oldfart had dodge envy for a second... LOL

[patracy]

Originally Posted by I-6DZL

LOL, change your name to scrounge...... Looks like you're "scrounging" around for anything that will work. I'm the same way, no big dollar B.S. here, just flat out plain and simple "what ever works". haha.

I was also thinking about building a pane system for my truck. Does pane actually cool, or heat egt's. A couple posts ago someone was going to put a shopping list together, i'd deffinately love to see this.

Do you think someone may get better mileage with a 12v, due to the inefficiencies (sp?) of the head and mech injection?

Thanks for this post!!!

Curtis

Nothing wrong with being resourceful.

Sometimes it works, sometimes you spend more money.

I've seen about 50F more EGT's with my setup.

Propane will help ALL diesels.

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1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. ADRENALINE/pulse BHAF, full set of gauges, FP light, Holley Blue pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, 3" glasspack, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, Heated WVO setup, poor man's 'pane setup, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan.
Parts to come: 150hp sticks, turbo, and bigger exhaust.

[hipsi]

Are you closing your bottle or just allowing the solenoid to stop gas flow, I am still trying to iron out how I am going to close the bottle when I leave the truck parked on short trips.

I have a cap on my bed and I plan on putting the bottle in my tool box in the bed. Climbing back there every time I shut the engine off to close the bottle is going to be a PITA. I also do not want to spend $300 on a NO2 remote bottle opener.

This is about the only step I have to figure out before I throw it together so to speak.

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01.5 Flame Red 3500 DRW 2WD LB QC Laramie
09 SRT8 Challenger *On Order*

47RE, 55 Block, BHAF, 4" Rapid Flow, DNA Muffler A.R.E Z Series Cap, Optima Blue Tops, AMSOIL, Anti Spin Diff, Line-X, Mopar Brush Guard, Silverstars, 235/75R/16 Dunlop Rover RVXT, Brembo Brakes, XZT+, RV275's, ISSPRO EV's Trans, Turbo, Fuel.