Used engine oil.

[speed185187]

Originally Posted by number5

My friend has a neat filter made from pvc pipes and toilet paper rolls. The oil looks close to new by the time it comes out. No pumps are on it its just a five gallon bucket hanging with a pvc pipe attached to the bottom. I think their are 3 rolls stuffed in it. Come to think about it thats alot of paper that oil has to drain through. Oh the center of the rolls is another pipe that is capped.

Pictures of another home filtering setup please.
I'm about half way done with the setup. I got a supply of used oil from an auto shop, more than i'll be able to use. Steel drums, assortment of pipe. I just have to put it together this weekend. I'll be picking up about 40 gallons of oil today to start.
Also have a steady supply of WVO from a local McDonalds. Already have half of a BioDiesel Reactor set up. I'll be burning that in my VW. Will post pics this weekend too of my setup

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2000 2500 2wd 356HP 726TQ
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Some Billet Trans Parts by TRE, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[rbertalotto]

Interesting picture with the oil burning heater. Wonder if the outcome would be different when mixed with diesel and injected at 5k+ psi.

Sure would! (But you knew that). It would burn a lot hotter and not just sit there and bake..........

Here's one for you. If you use synthetic motor oil, and you go through all the hassle of "Sub Micron Filtering", why not just dump it back into the crankcase and reuse it as a lubricant. Once you remove the abrasive particles, synthetic oil would be nearly good as new....

This past Saturday I was in tears at the local dump as I poured out 40 gal of WMO from my various vehicles. The town uses it to heat the DPW truck barn. I was saving it for my truck, but I just couldn't bring myself to dumping it into the fuel. If it wasn't a 3rd gen truck, I would have used it.

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Roy B www.rvbprecision.com
Dartmouth, MA
2006 Quad Cab - Juice w/ Attitude

[MikeyB]

Originally Posted by rbertalotto

Here's one for you. If you use synthetic motor oil, and you go through all the hassle of "Sub Micron Filtering", why not just dump it back into the crankcase and reuse it as a lubricant. Once you remove the abrasive particles, synthetic oil would be nearly good as new....

.

That's a good idea but the only issue is the additive package has been depleted. But adding Lucas oil stablizer can bring it back up.

MikeyB

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'03 2500 QC SWB 2wd, 305/555, NV5600, 3.73 LS, Airbox mod w/Amsoil Ea, Adjustable boost elbow, PML diff cover, Westach boost/EGT gauge, Line-X, Sirius, Toyo OC AT 285/70/17 E, Daystar 1.5" lift, Monroe Reflex, Raptor RP100, Lazarsmith Intake, Smarty/Van Aaken C3.2

[Challenger]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

Thank you... :thumbsup

Here is a post I made on another site to consider about WEO/WMO usage...

like Cummins limits to 5% WEO/WMO by volume. So for our tank 35 gallons it would mean you can add 1.75 gallons of WEO/WMO.

You got to remember you changing the characteristic of the diesel fuel and performance and MPG's will change on you... So it might be a free filler for fuel but it the long run your losing more over it...

That's why 2 cycle oil usage I suggest a top limit of 100:1 ratio and no lower than 200:1 ratio. This keep the lubricity up but it doesn't alter the Burn characteristic in a bad way. Like myself I'm 5-6 MPG higher than I was stock.

Remember there is several thing against you in using WEO...

1. ASH CONTENT - Measures inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustible metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. Being that engine oil is high in ASH content is not good choice... Engine oil wasn't meant or design to be burned in a combustion engine. But 2 cycle oil was designed for it! Remember most al 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS!!!

2. WATER & SEDIMENT - Affect the life of fuel filters and injectors. The amount of water and solid debris in the fuel is generally classified as water and sediment. It is good practice to filter fuel while it is being put into the fuel tank. More water vapor condenses in partially filled tanks due to tank breathing caused by temperature changes. Filter elements, fuel screens in the fill pump, and fuel inlet connections on injectors must be cleaned or replaced when they become dirty. These screens and filters, in performing intended function, will become clogged when using a poor or dirty fuel and will need to be changed more often. Water and sediments should not exceed 0.1 volume percent. You got to remember engine oil has lots of debris from the wear of your engine. Most of this can be filter off but there is other thing in there that can't...

3. CARBON RESIDUE - Measures residue in fuel - can influence combustion. The tendency of a diesel fuel to form carbon deposits in an engine can be estimated by various tests to determine the carbon residue after 90% of the fuel has been evaporated. Remember your WEO is full of the carbon soot that pass into the engine oil from blow by...

4. VISCOSITY - Affects injector lubrication and atomization. The injector system works most effectively when the fuel has the proper "body" or viscosity. If the fuel is too thick from the WEO the injectors can't spray the fuel properly.

I agree with Mopar 1973. Most IP pump failures I have seen are dirty fuel related. You can never have clean enough fuel. Generally diesel is clean,its if by accident it isn't that having good filtration is cheap insurance,and some owners install an extra after market one (like RACOR)as well. Pour some diesel in a jar and let it sit a few days,beside a jar of filtered waste engine oil,see what you think. Personally I would like to be able fire weiners through my IP and engine.Mopar 1973 I read your articles on 2 stroke oil and am using religously now thanks. What is the significance of Mopar and 1973 for you?

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96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods

[e-rok]

ok well I ran a little test batch since I had about 5 gallons of WMO laying around like 1/4 of a tank of diesel on my truck. Im still waiting for funds for a transfer pump and inline filter so it was just filtered thru a 1 micron filterbag. Took about a day to make it thru the system but once it did I immediately noticed the horrid exhaust smell lol. not like I care, im not driving behind myself. anyways its too early to determine MPG increase but I did notice that the buzzing/load kind of feeling I used to get when shifting into 4th (hard to explain but maybe others know what im talking about), from the lower RPMs from the low 4th grear Im assuming, anyways that feeling and sound decreased drastically. engine definately runs smoother.

I also just got a job at a resturant so I might have access to lots of WVO so I'm not sure which I will stick to.

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1995 3500 DRW Ext. Cab 2wd

[plvaulter06]

i start with filtering the WMO to 1 mic, then heated tank+inline heaters. Is everyone ready for it... drum roll please: 100% WMO. I'm now creeping up on 10,000 miles and still waiting for any slight sign of the motor running poorly, much less IP failure or injector failure. Truck is still running much smoother, w/ more power, and better milage. I've heard water/meth helps w/ the carbon buildup. I went through fuel filters like mad running unheated, 50% mix of WMO, but since the heaters i haven't pluged up the current fuel filter.

Im going to bump the timing up a bit more in the next few weeks, i think oil would be more tolerent of farther advance in timing due to the lower cetane number.

But by all means people, be careful not to experiment with running any kind of oil, it could be bad, just leave it all for me

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'94,2500 4X4, 5 sp, everything but... the stock turbo, still my anchor. peelout

[Winston_Wolf]

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04.5 Cummins® 5.9L - Superchips® Flashpaq™ 3805 - Airaid® M.I.T - Airaid® Premium air filter - Gutted cat

[ISX]

I ran WMO in my F250.. Filtered it down to 5 micron through a filter bag and dumped it in 50/50 mix. The only problem I see is starting, which heaters should solve, I never used one and if it was cold enough in the morning it wouldn't start or would start like crap, as if it already didn't start like crap on diesel... One thing I did notice though, was that on diesel I had to use the glow plugs to get it to start within a couple cranks if it sat for over half an hour, with the WMO mixed in, I could start it within, o say, 4 hours of turning it off last without the glow plugs.. might not sound impressive but my 7.3 has no compression or anything so I thought it was amazing.. And also, my mileage went through the roof.. I have no way of really knowing how many MPG's I gained since I had crude ways of doing everything, but I could get a rough average, and it gained at least 3 mpg.. (I actually picked up 8mpg but I am going to say at least 3 since I am a little unsure of how much I exactly added and the fact that an 8mpg increase from a POS seems bogus.. I was talking to people at work though who used it in a 1st gen cummins and they had a substantial increase in mileage as well. From what I have read, WMO contains 140k BTU's whereas ULSD is around 132-129k (thanks to all this extensive filtration, LSD is above 135k..) gasoline is 125k, so we are almost down to gasoline levels, which shows why WMO gives such an increase in mileage.. I am going to put some in the dodge since it actually has compression and gets over 20mpg no matter what I do, so I hope to see 30 driving it 65mph.. On the carbon and ash thing, if biodiesel is such a solvent, will B20 clean all that up, or does it just clean up the fuel system?

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1990 F250 7.3 IDI NA auto 4x4 250k
1997 2500 12V Cummins 5spd 2wd 311k miles #100 plate, SB Con O, 26.6MPG-55mph

[MikeyB]

I believe motor oil has a BTU rating of around 156k. So its about 22k more BTU's than ULSD per gallon.

MikeyB

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'03 2500 QC SWB 2wd, 305/555, NV5600, 3.73 LS, Airbox mod w/Amsoil Ea, Adjustable boost elbow, PML diff cover, Westach boost/EGT gauge, Line-X, Sirius, Toyo OC AT 285/70/17 E, Daystar 1.5" lift, Monroe Reflex, Raptor RP100, Lazarsmith Intake, Smarty/Van Aaken C3.2

[plvaulter06]

ive heard 153,200. It probably depends on the weight of the oil. In any case its definatly more than #2 and ULSD

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'94,2500 4X4, 5 sp, everything but... the stock turbo, still my anchor. peelout

[JaredMTFD]

I like the toilet paper filtering idea. Sounds cheap and effective.

Where can you buy a 1 or 2 micron filter setup?

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Truck: 2001 Ram 2500. Quadcab, Longbed, 4x4, HO, NV5600 6-Speed
Mods: Leveling Kit, Southbend Clutch, 5" Straight Exhaust, BHAF w/Outerwears and custom heatshield, 40hp Injectors, 70hp Timing Program in Computer, Quadzilla 120HP Xzillaraider, Vulcan Big-Line Fuel kit w/Holley Blue pump, Dipricol FP, Pyro, Boost Gauges
Extras: XM Radio, VHF Mobile Radio, Strobe/LED Emergency Lighting,
Security System: Ruger P95 9MM in door pocket. WWW.FARMBOYSDIESEL.COM

[dieselfurry]

Throw a few magnets in your fuel pump/dispenser filter that goes into your truck and you will be amazed on how much metal it will pull out that oil.......

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Fore Sale: 01 5sp pulse/adrenaline, airdog 150,valair, 150's FBD,super b special (maybe),leveled.Projects: Code Green & Silver Bullet 6/26/09 NEW truck 02 4x4 auto edge drag comp,air dog 150 bout to but the super b special on it...