Used engine oil.

[Mopar1973Man]

Originally Posted by patracy

You'll have to ignore challenged if it's not endorced by him, you're an idiot.

Personally I ran WEO in my truck for a while, but it killed the fuel filter. I wasn't pre-filtering though. Just drain and in the tank it went. I noticed that mileage seemed to suffer a bit with it. Add to it, my truck smelt like it was burning oil. So I stopped runnning it.

This is typical... Most people have done this in the past. But still in all the max suggested by Cummins is 5% volume (1.75 Gallons) our trucks hold nearly 3 gallons. So the more oil your add the more of a change to the burn characteristics of the remaining diesel fuel.

I'd assume that lower doses and a pre-filtered oil would be fine though. Perhaps I'll revist this once I get a few larger things in my life taken care of. But I'll just keep running dino in the tank with 2 stroke oil in there for now. I've got to finish my WVO setup though.

Yes... If you were to back off to 128:1 ratio like 2 cycle oil it would of work fine. But still in all like you shown if it not filtered it will plug up fuel filter rather quickly! This is on of main reasons I'm using 2 cycle oil because it clean and it has better lubricity than WEO/WMO!

Just my 2 cents on this post...:thumbsup

__________________

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins

For Technical Assistance With Your 24V 2nd Generation Cummins - Click Here! Or Search CF.Com for an Answer

Remember to smack the THANKS! button for those that helped you or you think that post is helpful to others!

[Challenger]

God I love this forum!What I believe is when you run WMO as or in your fuel.You are not only running a diesel engine,but in the case of a cummins you are also running six little sand blasters if you will,one in each cylinder.The sub micron particles(if you have a 1 micron fuel filter)or larger of steel, carbon,etc from the WMO are driven at high pressure through your IP pump,injectors,and into the cylinders,slowly sand blasting your piston tops,cylinders,hogging out your injectors and ruining your IP pump and other parts.A mix of abraissives and abraided material would be working on your top piston rings first,cylinder walls,valves and what have you.This is a slow process relatively,it could be faster depending on year,pump type and fuel system pressure,etc.I wouldn't recommend adding DIRT to clean diesel either.Others may disagree.

__________________
96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods 1980 Mack Cruise-Liner Cummins N14 370/430 hp 10spd,air ride

[patracy]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

Just my 2 cents on this post...:thumbsup

I'd say your 2 cents are worth more. :thumbsup

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[patracy]

Originally Posted by Challenger

God I love this forum!What I believe is when you run WMO as or in your fuel.You are not only running a diesel engine,but in the case of a cummins you are also running six little sand blasters if you will,one in each cylinder.The sub micron particles(if you have a 1 micron fuel filter)or larger of steel, carbon,etc from the WMO are driven at high pressure through your IP pump,injectors,and into the cylinders,slowly sand blasting your piston tops,cylinders,hogging out your injectors and ruining your IP pump and other parts.A mix of abraissives and abraided material would be working on your top piston rings first,cylinder walls,valves and what have you.This is a slow process relatively,it could be faster depending on year,pump type and fuel system pressure,etc.I wouldn't recommend adding DIRT to clean diesel either.Others may disagree.

All valid points challenged. As I stated, I no longer mix WEO in my diesel. But if one was to filter their WEO through a centrifuge filter or sub micron filter, I wouldn't see any harm in it.

Take that as you will, I know you'll not endorse it, so posting this was most likely a waste of time. But happy motoring.

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[Mopar1973Man]

Originally Posted by patracy

I'd say your 2 cents are worth more. :thumbsup

Thank you... :thumbsup

Here is a post I made on another site to consider about WEO/WMO usage...

like Cummins limits to 5% WEO/WMO by volume. So for our tank 35 gallons it would mean you can add 1.75 gallons of WEO/WMO.

You got to remember you changing the characteristic of the diesel fuel and performance and MPG's will change on you... So it might be a free filler for fuel but it the long run your losing more over it...

That's why 2 cycle oil usage I suggest a top limit of 100:1 ratio and no lower than 200:1 ratio. This keep the lubricity up but it doesn't alter the Burn characteristic in a bad way. Like myself I'm 5-6 MPG higher than I was stock.

Remember there is several thing against you in using WEO...

1. ASH CONTENT - Measures inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustible metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. Being that engine oil is high in ASH content is not good choice... Engine oil wasn't meant or design to be burned in a combustion engine. But 2 cycle oil was designed for it! Remember most al 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS!!!

2. WATER & SEDIMENT - Affect the life of fuel filters and injectors. The amount of water and solid debris in the fuel is generally classified as water and sediment. It is good practice to filter fuel while it is being put into the fuel tank. More water vapor condenses in partially filled tanks due to tank breathing caused by temperature changes. Filter elements, fuel screens in the fill pump, and fuel inlet connections on injectors must be cleaned or replaced when they become dirty. These screens and filters, in performing intended function, will become clogged when using a poor or dirty fuel and will need to be changed more often. Water and sediments should not exceed 0.1 volume percent. You got to remember engine oil has lots of debris from the wear of your engine. Most of this can be filter off but there is other thing in there that can't...

3. CARBON RESIDUE - Measures residue in fuel - can influence combustion. The tendency of a diesel fuel to form carbon deposits in an engine can be estimated by various tests to determine the carbon residue after 90% of the fuel has been evaporated. Remember your WEO is full of the carbon soot that pass into the engine oil from blow by...

4. VISCOSITY - Affects injector lubrication and atomization. The injector system works most effectively when the fuel has the proper "body" or viscosity. If the fuel is too thick from the WEO the injectors can't spray the fuel properly.

__________________

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins

For Technical Assistance With Your 24V 2nd Generation Cummins - Click Here! Or Search CF.Com for an Answer

Remember to smack the THANKS! button for those that helped you or you think that post is helpful to others!

[HBFishing]

This guy burns WEO in a home heater and it is pretty dirty stuff.

Roger Sanders' Waste Oil Heater
.
.

__________________
2006 4x2 2500 regular cab, automatic, 4.10 tow package all stock. Leer 700 Tonneau Cover Calif.

[Mopar1973Man]

Originally Posted by HBFishing

This guy burns WEO in a home heater and it is pretty dirty stuff.

Roger Sanders' Waste Oil Heater
.
.

Perfect! That's exactly what I need to show everyone...

A WEO/WMO heater. This is the burner...


Now after 1 day of burning WEO/WMO this is what the burner looks like from the amount of ash in WEO/WMO...


Now he goes on to say its easy to clean up with a putty knife. But remember you not going to pop the head of your engine every day to scrape that crap off the head and pistons...

__________________

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins

For Technical Assistance With Your 24V 2nd Generation Cummins - Click Here! Or Search CF.Com for an Answer

Remember to smack the THANKS! button for those that helped you or you think that post is helpful to others!

[patracy]

I skimmed the article, doesn't look like he filters the oil. Course, filtering won't prevent the ash/coke.

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[MikeyB]

Clean diesel fuel is a false statement. If it was that clean we would be using automotive style fuel filters. Even with ULSD it's still crappy.

I always thought of carbon as a lubricant. Commonly known as graphite.


Interesting picture with the oil burning heater. Wonder if the outcome would be different when mixed with diesel and injected at 5k+ psi.

MikeyB

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'03 2500 QC SWB 2wd, 305/555, NV5600, 3.73 LS, Airbox mod w/Amsoil Ea, Adjustable boost elbow, PML diff cover, Westach boost/EGT gauge, Line-X, Sirius, Toyo OC AT 285/70/17 E, Daystar 1.5" lift, Monroe Reflex, Raptor RP100, Lazarsmith Intake, Smarty/Van Aaken C3.2

[HotshotTX]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

What the hell just dump in all in there...

After 2 years of battle and study work of trying to protect VP44 and fuel system from damage. Now because of fuel prices it doesn't matter what you dump in your tank...

Well you might as well dump in WVO, WEO, ATF, Gear lube, etc... Synthetic or petroluem... But don't come whine back that your injectors, injection pump and engine is ruined because you tried to save a nickle at the fuel station...

As for me and this thread I'm DONE.

If anyone wants my advise you know where to find me at my web site. Good luck and I hope you guys don't eat a fuel system to save a nickle...

First off, I have to agree with Mopar. He is trying to save you guys from ruining your engines or falling on your financially.

Guys, listen.....I understand your trying to save money on fuel cost. Everyone is feeling the hurt in the pocketbook, but you all should step back and look at the big picture. First I want to say this. I own a transport company and also have a partnership with my parents in a motor vehicle sales dealership. I have been to technician school etc. Until these alternative fuels are tested by big companies who can afford the big loss and that can provide credible test results that the fuels are 100% safe, I say slow down and conserve fuel.

This fuel crisis mess will blow over just like it did back in the 70's. Hopefully this time America will learn it's lesson and not have a repeat by drilling here and telling the camel jockeys in the Middle East to kiss our on oil. Last, this Global Warming started a lot of this mess and over time people will come to see it's a big hoax and they got taken again. No matter what all these left wing radicals say, nobody is going to control mother nature. She will do as she pleases and her history will repeat. (I know a lot of women that are that way too. ) If you don't believe me, study more on history and you will see. God Bless! Darrell

[patracy]

Just something I stumbled upon...
Motor Oil Fuel Blending System | Waste Oil & Used Oil Recovery System

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[number5]

My friend has a neat filter made from pvc pipes and toilet paper rolls. The oil looks close to new by the time it comes out. No pumps are on it its just a five gallon bucket hanging with a pvc pipe attached to the bottom. I think their are 3 rolls stuffed in it. Come to think about it thats alot of paper that oil has to drain through. Oh the center of the rolls is another pipe that is capped.

__________________
Black 04 3500 HO 4x4 with black 20 inch KMC Rockstars, Airraid intake, MBRP turbo back exhaust, Fass 150, 90 HP DDP injectors, High Tech Turbo 64/14 & Edge Juice w/attitude. Billet TQ w/heavy duty bands and clutches, and shift kit.