Used engine oil.

[Snofarmer]

I'm a newbie to this forum but I'm no newbie to diesel engines.
I've run small farm tractors to heavy equipment all my life, well for 35yrs now.

First a couple of problems and comparisons I see are off base.

1. Using the waist oil burner to show ash build up is a poor example. Because it is not being burned in a pressurized environment nor it is it being atomized.

If you disregard the EPA and take a look at the Europeans. The same engine 6.7 or whatever. They allow you to burn motor oil, transmission fluid, VO & 2-cycel oil at what 50% or more in some cases but no gear lube (like some have mentioned)


As for worrying about ash content in the used motor oil, I think this an non-issue.
why?
EGR,
Your egr is recirculating ASH into your engine at a much higher level than will be found in your used motor oil.

As for metallic partials found in used motor oil most of them can be filtered out easily enough.

If your engine oil is so full of metal particles that you are worried about burring it you have a bigger problem.
jmo...

ps fuel specs in the owners manual are controlled by by the epa and have no bearing on what the engine can easily tolerate.

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Last edited by Snofarmer : 11-07-2008 at 11:39 AM.

[Mopar1973Man]

Originally Posted by Snofarmer

1. Using the waist oil burner to show ash build up is a poor example. Because it is not being burned in a pressurized environment nor it is it being atomized.

Well even gasoline engine get ash deposit from oil blow by... It collects on both the pistons and spark plugs as well.



So ASH content does have a effect to engine life...

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[patracy]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

Well even gasoline engine get ash deposit from oil blow by... It collects on both the pistons and spark plugs as well.



So ASH content does have a effect to engine life...

Again, not atomized oil droplets. And in a lower compression environment to boot.

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[Snofarmer]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

Well even gasoline engine get ash deposit from oil blow by... It collects on both the pistons and spark plugs as well.



So ASH content does have a effect to engine life...

aaahh o.k but lets keep comparing apples to apples. we are not talking gassers hear.
Nor a poorly maintained gasser like the one you are refering to in your pic.


Yes ash, soot, carbon is present in all engines. Yes, it can lead to troubles.
Ash, carbon or soot can build up in your diesel engine is mostly from running it at low engine temps, short trips and idling.

but that's not what we are talking about.

Your argument about the ash content in used motor oil is really a non-issue as there is more ash being introduce in to the engine by the egr.



Your wast oil burner(an poor example) would show soot build up even if you used ulsf fuel in it or fresh oil.
Hint: it's how it is burned, even gas gives off soot if it is burned that way.
Take the same fuel and burn it in an internal combustion engine and it will give off less ash as the fuel is burned more efficiently.

You can whistle all you want but that is the facts.

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Last edited by Snofarmer : 11-07-2008 at 01:00 PM.

[zack_76401]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

I'm sorry but diesel weren't designed to run on straight waste engine oil or even high ratios of it. I seen several people take older trucks and do it but... No one has ever come forward claiming that the vehicle last a long period of time without major failure! As a matter of fact this is one of the things that is muted (not talked about) out on most forums is that most of these truck have had major IP pump issues, Major injector(s) issues, cold starting problems, filter plugging rapidly, Severe loss in MPG and/or HP/TQ numbers.

Fuel Specs. straight out of the Owners Manual...


Working our way down the list...

VISCOSITY - WEO/WMO in high amount exceeds the lmitations of viscosity of the fuel this is why Cummins allows up to 5% by volume of WEO/WMO to be used but no more. At 128:1 ratio you not altering the viscosity very much if any... Also remember that WEO/WMO has a centistoke rating well in the 100's !!!

CETANE - Engine oil and 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer. It will increase the BTU's of the fuel but if you go too low you'll make the cetane level to low and performance will start to suffer. This is another reason to limit you amount. This why I limit to 128:1 ratio.

WATER & SEDIMENT - There is going to be metals and other materials in the WEO/WMO that can't be filtered out easily nor removed by magnets. This will increase wear on your fuel system. Since 2 cycle oil is vigin its clean and has no water or sediment...

CARBON RESIDUE - WEO/WMO is full of carbon residue. Since 2 cycle oil is virgin it has little to none carbon residue.

FLASH POINT - WEO/WMO has a extremely high flash point and has a direct bearing of burning characteristic of the fuel. The flash point of 2 cycle oil is closer to that of diesel fuel.

ASH - WEO/WMO is full of ash. Ash is inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustable metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. This is why ASHLESS 2 cycle oil is safer.

Here is a WEO/WMO heater burn after 24 hours of use... That's what ash looks like...

Look you may be the 2CYCLE GURU...go have fun with that...

but dont knock us that have tun and continue to run WMO...

Its easy, FREE, aint aint hurt a damn thing except the non believers pride....

My family has 5 yes i said five 12Vs all over 200,00 1 over 300,00 and 1 over 400,000 and they all run on WMO whenever they can dump it in....we run it as much as possible...never had any horror stories like your picture. That pic looks like someone fired up a coleman camp stove and dumped straight 90 wt on the burner until it flamed out....sorry but if you belive that compared to 18:1 compression you need to go back to Durascratch maintenance free engines...

tired of the BS from members that hate us runnin FREE fuel....

RANT OFF

ZC

[zack_76401]

And another thing....

If i wanted i referance from the owners manual, i would kept it....it went out the window the day i lef the lot..along with the resonator and the muffler....

I know how to read...i was offering REAL experience not a shadow behind a owners manual.....

[zack_76401]

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

Well...

I'm not a fan of WEO at all... It just to risky with the expense of the VP44 pumps and injectors.

But I do know of a guy that was using homebrew BioDiesel and dumping WVO in and fuel too... Well needless to say the fuel gelled up and plugged up the injection pump and injectors for about $3200 bucks...

There is no short cuts in life... If you going to make fuel make it right...

Garbage in...Garbage out... What you use for fuel is the performance you going to get...

Since the beginning of this thread, all youve done is offer condescending advice towards the rest of us that have run this filtered WMO for THOUSANDS of miles.....

Numerous members have gave REAL WORLD experience pulling trailers THOUSANDS of miles and shared what we had to offer and all you can do is bad mouth us???

BUG off with your LEER shell..we know you aint pullin anything....

If you want to contribute offer something useful...like your mileage with your shell vrs without.......

anything but coming back with a owners manual and more useless info....

[jkidd]

Sounds like some of us are losing focus and getting upset. Mopar1973man adds a lot to this forum.

Please refrain from attacks and make it a discussion. Most of us are friends here, or at least share a love of the cummins engine. I'm all for some alternative fueling and put some WMO in my own truck from time to time.

These engines are tough, and can handle a lot of abuse. Just because an engine continues to run does not eliminate the possibility that it may have run for a few more miles if it had been using another fuel before it ends.

Lets take a non related example:
smoking a pack a day... there are lots of people who live into their 70', 80's and longer who smoke. Yet smoking is considered to be unhealthy.

It is good to have a discussion here and I value opposing ideas. Keep it coming.

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[Jetto Funk]

I run a mix in my main tank. I've used tranny fluid, wmo, wvo, hydraulic fluid, you name it.
I clean my oil with a centrifuge and a 1 micron bag filter, than I run a heat exchanger before my fuel filter to make sure it's nice and hot. Burns fine.
Cold starting is rougher but when mixed with 20% diesel it smooths out pretty nice.

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[flintstone]

Originally Posted by Jetto Funk

I run a mix in my main tank. I've used tranny fluid, wmo, wvo, hydraulic fluid, you name it.
I clean my oil with a centrifuge and a 1 micron bag filter, than I run a heat exchanger before my fuel filter to make sure it's nice and hot. Burns fine.
Cold starting is rougher but when mixed with 20% diesel it smooths out pretty nice.

Prior to the oil price drop I started stockpiling wvo with the intention of processing this into biodiesel. Luckily, prices dropped, but, I still plan to build my processor this winter (I didn't want to deal with this process in the cold). I have found this thread very interesting and I would appreciate any info I can get on wmo and the processing it to run in my truck. I really love this forum for all the different information available. THANX Y'ALL

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[lonewolfmopar]

Originally Posted by lonewolfmopar

Why would you do that, i guess WVO is far cheaper and just as good ? I regret that no more people are giving their experiences here we're a couple months further now, is everybody still happy with their trucks driving on WVO ?
My exhaust turned completely white and you should guess there's water in my WVO but there isn't , does anyone have a clue ? I'm still mixing with kerosine (15% now).

I made a typo, i run WMO (Waste Motor Oil) instead of WVO..My exhaustpipe is completely white after an average 30, 40 or 50 mile trip, although there's no water in my "fuel", any ideas ? anyone ? I run WMO for 6000 miles now with no problems at all, the RPM's are a little low when it is just started but after a few miles this goes away, the engine smokes a little more than on regular fuel but that is really all there is of a difference. As long as i can find the WMO , i'm planning to continue driving on it.
Have a nice weekend ya'll !!

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Last edited by lonewolfmopar : 11-07-2008 at 08:00 PM. Reason: mistyped...stupid me lol

[Challenger]

Originally Posted by flintstone

Prior to the oil price drop I started stockpiling wvo with the intention of processing this into biodiesel. Luckily, prices dropped, but, I still plan to build my processor this winter (I didn't want to deal with this process in the cold). I have found this thread very interesting and I would appreciate any info I can get on wmo and the processing it to run in my truck. I really love this forum for all the different information available. THANX Y'ALL

Good choice here,i hear back yard stills with a little practise can make bio to an ASTM fuel rating that is equivilent to diesel, some on here were going to have WMO tested for content,how did that work out?It might be interesting to see a ASTM test done on wmo to see if it is fuel grade or even close.The egr and soot thing seems to be well documented on our 6.7 section,delete the egr and associated rubbish and the engine improves dramatically.Mopars 73's burner plates realistically demonstrate how much contaminates are in wmo,I depend on my truck, so for me it is not worth the risk,Happy Motoring!

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