Used engine oil.

[lonewolfmopar]

Originally Posted by DIESELCONVERT

I was going with that guess for 2 reasons

the whole "petroleum" (as in jelly like) comment

and i DON'T FRICKIN LIVE IN EUROPE so I don't don't know that you call kerosine a different name than KEROSINE

why the hell not just call it kerosine???
jeeesh :thumbsup

You don't have to shout to make your statement.....
It is called white petroleum over here, i made the effort to look it up just to make clear what i meant and i really don't care where you live on the globe...point is that fuel becomes too expensive for regular "working" people and that we look for other solutions to keep our trucks/vehicles going...that is not going to happen when we yell at eachother, only by helping eachother, isn't it ?
So unless someone has a usefull idea or howto's or pictures/ plans that make it easy for everyone, i suggest that they keep their personal opinions to themselves...


No offense whatsoever

[DIESELCONVERT]

no offense whatsoever??

I guess that I took your comment the wrong way. It sounded like you were giving me the smart guy treatment when all I was trying to do was help. After further reading the previous posts,.....I could've misinterpreted your intent
if I did ......I apologize

__________________
2006 SRW MEGALIMO 4X4 3500 5.9CUMMINS, VAN AAKEN C5,COMMANDER GUAGES,MUFFLER DELETE PIPE, ICEBOX WITH NANO 4091:.....................................$: it's only money.......unless you're broke !

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Last edited by DIESELCONVERT : 10-23-2008 at 11:50 PM.

[shorthair]

Originally Posted by Challenger

I have to say that is one tough engine,no doubt at all.We can't really discuss if and how much internal engine damage might have been caused here.For myself it is also difficult to apply this to cummins engines. Lets say three of us were lucky enough to still have enough money left to go out and buy a new 08 3500 ctd, one of us runs on wmo,one on diesel,one on home made bio diesel,knowing that the 6.7 has big problems with plugging dpf,tubos,egr, etc from soot while running on pump diesel,which of these totally stock engines is most likely to run the longest trouble free before plugging up,and which one the least longest?What might this say about the fuel?Bio is in its infancy.I'd like to see a commuter car or truck hybrid electric with a 2bt cummins.Are their any plug in electric car forums yet?

I guess to belabor the point if you save far more than the price of a new motor why would you care how much "wear" it causes. Even if my savings are twice what the avg is then the avg guy is "only" saving enough to pay for 3-4 motors by running WMO it sure seems worth it to me.

__________________
97 2500 CC LB 4X4 Auto 3.54 215 injectors 4" exhaust 144k glow shift gauges & a couple of German Shorthair copilots.

[lonewolfmopar]

Originally Posted by DIESELCONVERT

no offense whatsoever??

I guess that I took your comment the wrong way. It sounded like you were giving me the smart guy treatment when all I was trying to do was help. After further reading the previous posts,.....I could've misinterpreted your intent
if I did ......I apologize

Dear Dieselconvert, i don't give anybody any treatment , really, that isn't my nature...But you should know that typing a text in capitol letters stands for shouting and i don't tolerate anyone shouting at me...it is as simple as that...i allready have the courtesy to write in a language that isn't my own and sorry if i don't know some technical words by heart...btw your apologies are accepted.
As i stated before ; discussions like this don't bring us any further and only united we stand. What i would like to know is for example, what years cummins engines are good for WMO-driving, what are the advantages & disadvantages for these years like some having a linepump (Bosch) or rotarypumps..stuff like that, should we use heated filters or not...which setup is the best from tank till engine accompanied bij drawing or pictures..should one use larger injectors when running on WMO...is adding an additional pump in the fuelline useful or not? What extra gauges are recommended? I hope to read some replies on these questions..thx allready folks

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Last edited by lonewolfmopar : 10-24-2008 at 01:28 PM. Reason: typo

[jkidd]

anyone else doing this? It is on my back burner still.

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[speed185187]

I'm switching over to Bio diesel. Finally got my processor set up and running. My VW is on B100 right now and loving it.

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Couple Billet Trans Parts, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[lonewolfmopar]

Originally Posted by speed185187

I'm switching over to Bio diesel. Finally got my processor set up and running. My VW is on B100 right now and loving it.

Why would you do that, i guess WVO is far cheaper and just as good ? I regret that no more people are giving their experiences here we're a couple months further now, is everybody still happy with their trucks driving on WVO ?
My exhaust turned completely white and you should guess there's water in my WVO but there isn't , does anyone have a clue ? I'm still mixing with kerosine (15% now).

[speed185187]

After seeing what WVO can do to the engine, I"m not going to try that. I'm switching over to home brew bio diesel cause it's better for the engine, environment, and I'll free up space in my garage. Don't have to futz around with two different processors. The WMO for the truck was just a stepping stone to tide me over until my bio processor got setup.

Let me remind you, WVO, WMO, Biodiesel, D2, K1, JP5, JP8..ect.... Those are all different fuels. I was not running WVO in my truck. I was using filtered WMO.

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Couple Billet Trans Parts, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[Got Torque]

thats not good, A buddy of mine has been doing that, used oil, tranny fluid, some gasoline, lots of crap, all mixed up in an offroad tank. he runs it in his 2000 24v and it is ok, but after using it in his 04 it torched the engine, Pulled the injectors and they had so much build up on them it looked like dingleberries. never have seen that bad of buildup on any injector ever!! don't do it in the newer trucks they are picky

__________________
05CTD NV5600 scary larry, TST r49,62/12-s480, head studs, ATS twin CP3's, F1 flux2, air dog 150 BD cooler, Con FE, Hamilton cam, 110#springs, 6in lift, Glacier Diesel ladder bars, 5in stacks.689hp 1317tq on Dunbars dyno

[flintstone]

Converting Used Motor Oil to Diesel - Bob Is The Oil Guy he claims to be the oil guy:thumbsup Oil to Diesel or thisthumbsup

__________________
1998.5 3500 dually.S300,AIRDOG 150, S&B INTAKE,JUICE W/ATTITUDE, 5" RSD w/ 6" MBRP tip, FLEXALITE, BILLET T.C. H.D. REBUILT TRANS, HAISLEY STUDS & O RINGS, 100 HP STICKS, Hopelessly Addicted [][]==o==[][]

[speed185187]

there isn't alot of hard factual evidence on either of those forum's. or for that matter any discussion of setups.

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Couple Billet Trans Parts, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[Mopar1973Man]

I'm sorry but diesel weren't designed to run on straight waste engine oil or even high ratios of it. I seen several people take older trucks and do it but... No one has ever come forward claiming that the vehicle last a long period of time without major failure! As a matter of fact this is one of the things that is muted (not talked about) out on most forums is that most of these truck have had major IP pump issues, Major injector(s) issues, cold starting problems, filter plugging rapidly, Severe loss in MPG and/or HP/TQ numbers.

Fuel Specs. straight out of the Owners Manual...


Working our way down the list...

VISCOSITY - WEO/WMO in high amount exceeds the lmitations of viscosity of the fuel this is why Cummins allows up to 5% by volume of WEO/WMO to be used but no more. At 128:1 ratio you not altering the viscosity very much if any... Also remember that WEO/WMO has a centistoke rating well in the 100's !!!

CETANE - Engine oil and 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer. It will increase the BTU's of the fuel but if you go too low you'll make the cetane level to low and performance will start to suffer. This is another reason to limit you amount. This why I limit to 128:1 ratio.

WATER & SEDIMENT - There is going to be metals and other materials in the WEO/WMO that can't be filtered out easily nor removed by magnets. This will increase wear on your fuel system. Since 2 cycle oil is vigin its clean and has no water or sediment...

CARBON RESIDUE - WEO/WMO is full of carbon residue. Since 2 cycle oil is virgin it has little to none carbon residue.

FLASH POINT - WEO/WMO has a extremely high flash point and has a direct bearing of burning characteristic of the fuel. The flash point of 2 cycle oil is closer to that of diesel fuel.

ASH - WEO/WMO is full of ash. Ash is inorganic residues - The small amount of non-combustable metallic material found in almost all petroleum products is commonly called ash. Ash content should not exceed 0.02 mass percent. This is why ASHLESS 2 cycle oil is safer.

Here is a WEO/WMO heater burn after 24 hours of use... That's what ash looks like...

__________________

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Last edited by Mopar1973Man : 11-07-2008 at 12:14 PM.