Used engine oil.

[patracy]

Originally Posted by edelbrock1

I have 2 trusted mechanics that I can source as much WMO as I want. I usually leave a metal 44 gallon drum (that is what we get here in Oz. 200 litres) at their shop. When it is full I just drop by and replace it with an empty one. I trust them to only put good used engine oil, none from blown engines or any that has water in it. WTF (waste transmission fluid) is good too. Helps thin out the WMO. Then I take it home, run it through my filtration system down to 1 micron. Then it is ready to go.

Most mechanics are glad to offload some of their waste oil.

But try and stay away from synthetics. They will burn ok, but tend to smoke, and I am certain that the mp/g drops. But at the end of the day it is free. Who cares if I loose a few m/pg..

From what I have read, it is better if you have an IDI motor. The newer direct injection and common rail systems dont like the WMO so much.

Do a test, go buy the cheapest old truck you can, slop some filtered WMO in the tank. keep upping the ratio till it starts to get hard to start from cold. I have heard some trucks will run on 90% WMO with no modifications. Keep a track of how much WMO you are burning, within a couple of months you will have saved enough to pay for the truck. Then if it blows up.. who cares?? but it wont.. it will go on stronger and longer, because the IP and injector system has some LUBE.

That is what I did, first off, I bought an old Isuzu 4cyl. for $900. Now I cant kill this little car. I still have it now and run it up to the shops, tow a trailer to pick up my WMO. She loves the slop that I put in the tank.

But again, this is only my opinion and experience. What I am saying is dont be scared to try some new things. Start at 5% for the first tank. see how it runs. 10% for the next. Keep going up till your truck tells you to stop.

The worst part about it is going to collect the oil, and then filter it. My missus used to whine all the time about the time I spent down the shed filtering the oil and going out collecting the oil. So I sent her off to fill my truck with shop diesel, close on $300 later she returned with nearly a tear in her eye. She had no idea that these things are so expensive to run. Seems she is a little happier now that she doesnt have to use her hard earned cash on diesel.

Have you considered passing it through a centrifuge for filtration? That'd take care of any metals suspended that gravity didn't pull out from settling.

Edit:
BTW, I'm playing around with a dual tank setup on my truck. But the VP44 can't handle the heat due to the electronics being built into the pump. That said. I'll be migrating my setup over to my Samurai with a VW 1.6TD. All mechanical, so no issues!

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

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Last edited by patracy : 08-25-2008 at 11:22 PM.

[edelbrock1]

Originally Posted by Challenger

now as you add more details a clearer picture is presenting,quite different from your first post,thimbules of metal particles oh please can I have some more!

I just tried to point out that there is next no no metal in the oil. The way you guys carry on you would expect the engines to be totally worn out after just 5,000 miles. The thimble full of metal was how much could be expected to be worn out of the motor in it's ENTIRE LIFETIME. Spread that thimble full over an oil change every 5,0000 miles and what I am saying is that there is no metal in the oil. And if there did happen to be any, I filter down to 1 micron. 10 times lower than the stock filter. It is going to flow through the IP and injectors... No problem.

At the end of the day, I am only giving you my experience. Which is something that the knockers can not do. You are working on Opinion.. and that is all.

Keep paying your $4.50 a gallon, Does not worry me at all...

[edelbrock1]

Originally Posted by patracy

Have you considered passing it through a centrifuge for filtration? That'd take care of any metals suspended that gravity didn't pull out from settling.

Edit:
BTW, I'm playing around with a dual tank setup on my truck. But the VP44 can't handle the heat due to the electronics being built into the pump. That said. I'll be migrating my setup over to my Samurai with a VW 1.6TD. All mechanical, so no issues!

I have read somethings about the centrifuge, But have not looked into it any further. I have had no issues with filtering to 1 micron. So I see no reason to change my setup.

[speed185187]

I'm working on the centrifuge setup similar to patracy. I'll be using it for both motor oil and veggie oil.

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Some Billet Trans Parts by TRE, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[Challenger]

Originally Posted by edelbrock1

I just tried to point out that there is next no no metal in the oil. The way you guys carry on you would expect the engines to be totally worn out after just 5,000 miles. The thimble full of metal was how much could be expected to be worn out of the motor in it's ENTIRE LIFETIME. Spread that thimble full over an oil change every 5,0000 miles and what I am saying is that there is no metal in the oil. And if there did happen to be any, I filter down to 1 micron. 10 times lower than the stock filter. It is going to flow through the IP and injectors... No problem.

At the end of the day, I am only giving you my experience. Which is something that the knockers can not do. You are working on Opinion.. and that is all.

Keep paying your $4.50 a gallon, Does not worry me at all...

I am not familiar with the diesel engine you run,is a good lifespan for one 2,3,400k miles,or more?do you have any oil consumption at all between oil changes?have you had your engine apart to check for wear?does it have blowby?any compression test?Blue Chip Diesel for example is a company that rebuilds IP pumps,if they chose to they could just remain silent on the issue,and make more money, but they don't,they stand up in writing and say wmo,wvo,kills pumps,all the diesel engine builders and mechanics I know wouldn't do it because they don't want to be rebuilding their engines early,obviously their are some world class duffuses on here who can manage to screw up everything they touch including their juice maker,but i hear you can get close to a mill miles from a well kept untouched cummins,i travel a lot and wouldn't mind checking it out.

__________________
96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods 1980 Mack Cruise-Liner Cummins N14 370/430 hp 10spd,air ride

[speed185187]

Just saw this article on yahoo. Maybe everybody else is catching on about OCI.
The 3,000 Mile Oil Change Myth- Yahoo! Autos Article Page

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Some Billet Trans Parts by TRE, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[patracy]

Originally Posted by edelbrock1

I just tried to point out that there is next no no metal in the oil. The way you guys carry on you would expect the engines to be totally worn out after just 5,000 miles. The thimble full of metal was how much could be expected to be worn out of the motor in it's ENTIRE LIFETIME. Spread that thimble full over an oil change every 5,0000 miles and what I am saying is that there is no metal in the oil. And if there did happen to be any, I filter down to 1 micron. 10 times lower than the stock filter. It is going to flow through the IP and injectors... No problem.

At the end of the day, I am only giving you my experience. Which is something that the knockers can not do. You are working on Opinion.. and that is all.

Keep paying your $4.50 a gallon, Does not worry me at all...

Ahh I see that challeged is still alive and kicking. You know he's just a troll right? Stop responding to him and he'll get upset and go home. Or you could just stop quoting him for me.

Anyhoo... Have you pulled your injectors to see if there's any coking going on? I thought I recalled you stating that your engine was an IDI though right?

That can make a difference.

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[edelbrock1]

Originally Posted by patracy

Anyhoo... Have you pulled your injectors to see if there's any coking going on? I thought I recalled you stating that your engine was an IDI though right?

That can make a difference.

YES, my engine is IDI, everything I have read to do with WMO and WVO, points to IDI being a lot more tolerant of alternative fuels. DI and common rail do not handle WMO all that well from what I have read. I only have experience with my truck.

I am a big believer in "if it aint broke, dont fix it" so I have never pulled the injectors or done any of the other tests.

Oil get changed every 10,000 kilometres. (6,000 miles) and it is normal oil. Looks the same as my dads when he was never using WMO.

Does not seem to burn any oil. But who would know, it might be laking past the rings and staying in the sump. But it never gets any fuller than that the amount that I put in there. So I guess that is a bit of an unknown. But for more than 100,000 miles with no problems... I am not complaining or asking questions..

[patracy]

Yep, the IDI is a lot different. That said, my VW engine is an IDI. So that's a plus.

Post up some pics of your setup if you could. Just curious about your heat exchangers.

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[Challenger]

Originally Posted by edelbrock1

YES, my engine is IDI, everything I have read to do with WMO and WVO, points to IDI being a lot more tolerant of alternative fuels. DI and common rail do not handle WMO all that well from what I have read. I only have experience with my truck.

I am a big believer in "if it aint broke, dont fix it" so I have never pulled the injectors or done any of the other tests.

Oil get changed every 10,000 kilometres. (6,000 miles) and it is normal oil. Looks the same as my dads when he was never using WMO.

Does not seem to burn any oil. But who would know, it might be laking past the rings and staying in the sump. But it never gets any fuller than that the amount that I put in there. So I guess that is a bit of an unknown. But for more than 100,000 miles with no problems... I am not complaining or asking questions..

Where abouts in Aus are you?I have a sister in Bowen,we did the east coast with them from sydney,the reef,up north, stinger nets,gator land,you know that town with the ariel tramway over the jungle,great country, perhaps some of those on this thread may at least learn to ask a question or two before they roll over and kiss butt,as for their chief cheerleader i've learned to consider the source,they say his avitar is his wife so his mood swings are understandable On this forum,check out what the owners of the 6.7 cummins are finding with their engines,my take,they are either spending all their time at the dealership repairing,replacing turbos,plugged up dpf etc.some are selling out of frustration or lemon lawing them...others are removing and throwing the egr and dpf away,and reporting the engine is now running as it should,awsome performance and better on fuel, Could the soot entering the engine via the egr system(not via the injection system) be the problem here,they seem to be indicating premature turbo wear and complete failure,everything plugged with soot,a reasonable person could probably guess this might speed up engine wear as well. so does this mean soot and dirt ruins engines? where I live a smoking exhaust gets you booted out of the line up to even take the emission test,and with no pass,no insurance,no insurance no on the road.have a read,let us know,oh and how long do those toyota diesels usually last? cheers

__________________
96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods 1980 Mack Cruise-Liner Cummins N14 370/430 hp 10spd,air ride

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Last edited by Challenger : 08-26-2008 at 11:39 PM.

[speed185187]

paragraphs would be nice please...

Dodge isn't the only company that had problems with this design. VW's EGR system would severely clog the intake of all the TDI's. That's why alot of people just remove them.

The means of introducing the particulate is completely different. Cooled exhaust gases of any diesel when piped back into the intake system will form a gooey buildup of sludge. If that same soot is entrained in the liquid of the fuel we are using, then it gets atomized into each combustion chamber, burned, then pushed out of the engine. Also, the design of diesel specific engine oil is made to suspend the soot that gets blown by the pistons, prevent it from depositing in any one location.

__________________
2000 2500 2wd
(BHAF, Boost, EGT, FP Gauges, Breather bottle delete, Fass 150/150, Fireball 150's, Phat Shaft 62, Some Billet Trans Parts by TRE, XZT+, 4" exhaust, 2" Level, 315/75-16)

03 Jetta TDI 5 spd "Click here for TDICLUB Profile" 903 Miles on 15.03 Gallons.

[patracy]

Hmmm? Must be missing a post. I guess our old friend is still running on about this huh?

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!