Used engine oil.

[edelbrock1]

I have read all 16 pages of this thread and must say it was the best laugh that I have had in a long time. I have been running WMO in my truck for well over 100,000 miles and it has never run better. I run a 2 tank system, start and get the engine to temp on diesel, then switch over to 100% filtered WMO. Then change back before stopping the engine so that the IP is full of diesel for easier start up. I run heat exchangers on the 2nd tank that heats the WMO to thin it so it flows through the IP and injectors a little more like it should.
Now, I have never replaced the IP or the injectors. But my dad has, we bought our trucks at the same time, so we have done similar miles. At around 50k he had to replace the IP and injectors, I guess you could blame that on the WMO, then at around 90k he cracked the head and filled the cylinder with coolant. Ended up with a conrod out the side of the block. Now I guess you could also blame that on the WMO too. BUT, his the closest that has truck has been to WMO is when I park mine along side. He laughed and pointed when I started running WMO, but who is laughing now?? IF my engine does the same thing, I have saved around 3 times what he has just spent on an engine rebuild. It turns out the guy who rebuilt the engine told him to run a bit of oil in the fuel to give it some lubrication. So he now runs 25% WMO filtered to 1 micron, same as I do. He just stops it in the tank and it runs just fine. The engine is noticeably quieter, runs smoother and stronger.

Now to all you knockers, dont knock it until you try it. It seems everyone here that is knocking the use of WMo has never tried it and is too scared to slop some in the tank. But you are all too quick to knock those people that are willing to try something that is a little outside the square.

The way you are carrying on about metal in the oil. GIVE ME A BREAK. Really how much metal do you think is in the oil? The way you talk I would expect my engine to be worn out after 5,000 miles. OK for the life of a motor, I would say that there would be a MAXIMUM of say a thimble full of metal wear off the entire motor, spread this thimble full of metal out over the oil changes every 5,000 miles, just how much metal do you expect to find in this oil?? I will tell you.... NONE. These so called contaminates in the WMO, they dont seem to effect the engine bearings, (which by the way are soft enough to scratch with your finger nail) so how do you expect all these nasty contaminates to effect the IP and injectors that are make out of toughened steel.

I filter down to 1 micron, when the stock fuel filter is 10 microns. So why would all these "nasty contaminates" that will freely flow through the stock filter damage my IP and injectors??


I am not saying that "this will work and it wont harm your truck" because I can't prove that. BUT in my case and my experience, my trucks runs better and has more power on WMO. With well over 100k miles i dont really care if the engines dies, with what I have saved, I can replace it 3 times over.

Remember guys... This is just my experience and opinion.

[mikeshauling]

Now im not calling but i kinda want to. If your runnin 100 % WMO doesnt it SMOKE like helllll ?

__________________
09 QC 4X2 BIGHORN DRW G56 3:73 INFERNO RED Timberens B&W GN Dipricol Optix ga.(boost,fuel pr. EGT) , CAT 2 mic remote F/F Smarty17S, stock exhaust in tact.

[rock mafia]

Originally Posted by edelbrock1

I have read all 16 pages of this thread and must say it was the best laugh that I have had in a long time. I have been running WMO in my truck for well over 100,000 miles and it has never run better. I run a 2 tank system, start and get the engine to temp on diesel, then switch over to 100% filtered WMO. Then change back before stopping the engine so that the IP is full of diesel for easier start up. I run heat exchangers on the 2nd tank that heats the WMO to thin it so it flows through the IP and injectors a little more like it should.
Now, I have never replaced the IP or the injectors. But my dad has, we bought our trucks at the same time, so we have done similar miles. At around 50k he had to replace the IP and injectors, I guess you could blame that on the WMO, then at around 90k he cracked the head and filled the cylinder with coolant. Ended up with a conrod out the side of the block. Now I guess you could also blame that on the WMO too. BUT, his the closest that has truck has been to WMO is when I park mine along side. He laughed and pointed when I started running WMO, but who is laughing now?? IF my engine does the same thing, I have saved around 3 times what he has just spent on an engine rebuild. It turns out the guy who rebuilt the engine told him to run a bit of oil in the fuel to give it some lubrication. So he now runs 25% WMO filtered to 1 micron, same as I do. He just stops it in the tank and it runs just fine. The engine is noticeably quieter, runs smoother and stronger.

Now to all you knockers, dont knock it until you try it. It seems everyone here that is knocking the use of WMo has never tried it and is too scared to slop some in the tank. But you are all too quick to knock those people that are willing to try something that is a little outside the square.

The way you are carrying on about metal in the oil. GIVE ME A BREAK. Really how much metal do you think is in the oil? The way you talk I would expect my engine to be worn out after 5,000 miles. OK for the life of a motor, I would say that there would be a MAXIMUM of say a thimble full of metal wear off the entire motor, spread this thimble full of metal out over the oil changes every 5,000 miles, just how much metal do you expect to find in this oil?? I will tell you.... NONE. These so called contaminates in the WMO, they dont seem to effect the engine bearings, (which by the way are soft enough to scratch with your finger nail) so how do you expect all these nasty contaminates to effect the IP and injectors that are make out of toughened steel.

I filter down to 1 micron, when the stock fuel filter is 10 microns. So why would all these "nasty contaminates" that will freely flow through the stock filter damage my IP and injectors??


I am not saying that "this will work and it wont harm your truck" because I can't prove that. BUT in my case and my experience, my trucks runs better and has more power on WMO. With well over 100k miles i dont really care if the engines dies, with what I have saved, I can replace it 3 times over.

Remember guys... This is just my experience and opinion.

AWSOME. REAL experiance not some challanged BS.

At 100000 miles lets say he's ran 85,000 on wmo at only $3.50 a gal 18 mpg that's $16,527. That's more than enough to buy another nice used 12v truck or 2, or install several new engines.

Oh, I thought you could only run wmo at 10% or 25% or 40% or 75% but never %100

[1000EE-Monarch]

> If your runnin 100 % WMO doesnt it SMOKE like helllll

Not really. I never noticed any more smoke than normal, but then again the trucks that I ran a lot of oil in were turned up and smoked plenty.

__________________
Alex K.
'01 3500 QC 4x4 NV5600 HO. Stock for now. BHAF, no silencer ring, muffler delete.
WANTED: '98 12v 3500 QC 4x4 5spd 3.55 gears

[Challenger]

Edelbrock,welcome to this forum,perhaps you could update your sig so we can see what your running,i don't believe it can be wrong to offer a dissenting opinion,my opinion is wmo is contaminated fuel anyway you slice it,the pictures support that,the pros at bluechip diesel don't seem to be siding with you,they rebuild ip pumps for a living,continued success and happy motoring

__________________
96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods 1980 Mack Cruise-Liner Cummins N14 370/430 hp 10spd,air ride

[rock mafia]

Originally Posted by Challenger

Edelbrock,welcome to this forum,perhaps you could update your sig so we can see what your running,i don't believe it can be wrong to offer a dissenting opinion,my opinion is wmo is contaminated fuel anyway you slice it,the pictures support that,the pros at bluechip diesel don't seem to be siding with you,they rebuild ip pumps for a living,continued success and happy motoring

OK, for the math impaired $16527 = about 20 12v injection pumps. Then again he's replaced none, and kept alot of $$$ in his pocket.

[Challenger]

Maf,thanks for showing us your math skills,good to see your a true believer after edelbrock's very first post here ever,I often wonder why I don't run offroad and smash my truck into big rocks,needless to say we want to encourage eldebrock to tell us more re wmo and other topics,ie, does straight wmo cause huge clouds of blue smoke and attract the smoke police?

__________________
96 Dodge CTD 3500 4x4 black extracab dually auto 3.54 no mods 1980 Mack Cruise-Liner Cummins N14 370/430 hp 10spd,air ride

[pigpenracing]

I have been running waste oil. I use filter bags and go down to 1 micron and then run through a diesel/water seperator filter before it goes in my truck. 5,000 miles with no problems, no plugged filter or anything. I run 100% oil. I am in Texas and it is hot here, over 100 usually. I have a 12 valve and do not see any problems. I filter my oil in a 275 gallon tote and have 1200 gallons ready to run. Who cares if the truck has problems 50,000 miles down the road? I usually sell mine about every 30,000 2 years and get something different. You guys keep spending $200 per tank and I will run for free. People just want to talk and are scared to try anything. It is a freaking old truck. it can be replaced. not like your doing experiments on a human. I buy my trucks cheap. I can probably kill them and get my money back dead and buy another. But really, I don't think I will see any problems. I am going to tru a newer truck next. 2004 or up.

[edelbrock1]

Originally Posted by Challenger

Maf,thanks for showing us your math skills,good to see your a true believer after edelbrock's very first post here ever,I often wonder why I don't run offroad and smash my truck into big rocks,needless to say we want to encourage eldebrock to tell us more re wmo and other topics,ie, does straight wmo cause huge clouds of blue smoke and attract the smoke police?

OK. I am living in Oz, and am running a Toyota Landcruiser 4WD with a 4.2 litre Diesel. I have converted my mileage to miles so you guys in the US can understand what I am on about. But to put it in perspective, dad and I bought both our trucks (we call em Utes here) new in 1998. Both are used for very similar purposes, hunting trips, highway running. That type of work. His has never run WMO till he blew the motor, mine has run WMO since around the 15,000 mile mark.

The trick to running WMO is to get it HOT. Hotter the better. I originally got onto this thread by searching on google for WMO or waste motor oil. There is a LOT of information on this out there. I am always looking for better ways to update my system.

This is the best link that I can give. This guy has done it and has proved it with many many miles under his belt using WMO. He sure has not had any problems. Neither have I.

Engine Oil For Diesel Fuel

it is not such a great read, it needs some punctuation. But he lists everything he has done to his truck to allow him to easily run 100% WMO.

Ok as for smoke, you MAY get a little more when you lay into the loud pedal HARD. But under normal driving it does not smoke any more than normal.
If do search for WMO on google, also search for WVO. (Waste Vegetable oil) I have converted my truck in exactly the same way. I start and shut down on diesel (when I say diesel I mean a 40/60 blend WMO/Diesel. At this blend my truck still starts at any temp in the same way as diesel. I always add some WMO to lube the IP. Any higher than this mix and it gets hard to start in low morning temps) but all other running is done on 100% WMO.
Again, the trick is to heat the oil up as hot as possible before it goes through the IP.

To all the knockers... Go your hardest, but I have saved many many thousands of dollars. I have proved for myself that it works. I have proved to myself that it does not do any damage to my truck. If I can prove through my own experience that WMO caused any problems with my truck. I too will probably tell people not to do it. But I cant. SO until you have PROOF that WMO can harm a motor, please dont knock the use of WMO. Sure you may THINK that WMO can harm a motor, but PROVE IT.

Engine Oil For Diesel Fuel

---

Last edited by edelbrock1 : 08-25-2008 at 04:17 AM. Reason: grammer errors

[patracy]

Thanks for the links and info edelbroc1. You'll have to ignore challenged, or just use this trick to make him disappear. (http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/cu...hancement.html) if it's not lab tested and certified with a presidential seal of approval it's a fraud to him.

What's your source for WEO? How are you dealing with water/antifreeze?

__________________
1999 2500 4x4 Club Cab Sport. sorta functional ADRENALINE/pulse , BHAF, FBD 150 sticks, 3rd Gen HE351 retrofit, Hamilton 110lb valve springs, A1 head studs, 5" FBD exhaust, Isspro Boost and Drive pressure gauges, fuel pressure gauge, FP light, Mallory Comp 250 pump, 1/2" big line kit, Draw straw, TC lockup switch, Stealth VP plate, BD TC, BD VB, Billet input, Derale pan. Best of all, NO MORE CRACKED 53 BLOCK!

[pigpenracing]

Water will settle to the bottom. When I collect oil I keep my pump 4 inches from the bottom and usuall don't het water or trash. I have a petcock in the bottom of my tank so after sitting a week I drain the first 5 gallons and ditch it before filtering. I also run through a filter/waterseperator before it goes in the truck.

[edelbrock1]

Originally Posted by patracy

What's your source for WEO? How are you dealing with water/antifreeze?

I have 2 trusted mechanics that I can source as much WMO as I want. I usually leave a metal 44 gallon drum (that is what we get here in Oz. 200 litres) at their shop. When it is full I just drop by and replace it with an empty one. I trust them to only put good used engine oil, none from blown engines or any that has water in it. WTF (waste transmission fluid) is good too. Helps thin out the WMO. Then I take it home, run it through my filtration system down to 1 micron. Then it is ready to go.

Most mechanics are glad to offload some of their waste oil.

But try and stay away from synthetics. They will burn ok, but tend to smoke, and I am certain that the mp/g drops. But at the end of the day it is free. Who cares if I loose a few m/pg..

From what I have read, it is better if you have an IDI motor. The newer direct injection and common rail systems dont like the WMO so much.

Do a test, go buy the cheapest old truck you can, slop some filtered WMO in the tank. keep upping the ratio till it starts to get hard to start from cold. I have heard some trucks will run on 90% WMO with no modifications. Keep a track of how much WMO you are burning, within a couple of months you will have saved enough to pay for the truck. Then if it blows up.. who cares?? but it wont.. it will go on stronger and longer, because the IP and injector system has some LUBE.

That is what I did, first off, I bought an old Isuzu 4cyl. for $900. Now I cant kill this little car. I still have it now and run it up to the shops, tow a trailer to pick up my WMO. She loves the slop that I put in the tank.

But again, this is only my opinion and experience. What I am saying is dont be scared to try some new things. Start at 5% for the first tank. see how it runs. 10% for the next. Keep going up till your truck tells you to stop.

The worst part about it is going to collect the oil, and then filter it. My missus used to whine all the time about the time I spent down the shed filtering the oil and going out collecting the oil. So I sent her off to fill my truck with shop diesel, close on $300 later she returned with nearly a tear in her eye. She had no idea that these things are so expensive to run. Seems she is a little happier now that she doesnt have to use her hard earned cash on diesel.