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Old 08-19-2011, 10:53 AM   #1 (permalink)
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running WMO as I know it

Lots more pictures to come. and feedback appreciated (please no bashing... if you don't agree with running WMO or WVO please hit the go back button now

This forum has been VERY good to me…. A wealth of information. So today I feel like I should give back some. Listed below is just some of my findings running WMO.
Collection- I have built myself a “supper sucker” for collection. This will work with WMO or WVO either way.
1. Get yourself an old air compressor tank, propane tank (like my 320 gallon one) any thing thick enough to handle the pressure of vacuum. I use a old HVAC vacuum pump to pull my vacuum down to say 20 inch pounds.
(Listed below is basicially what you need to build... I will post pictures of what mine looks like over the weekend)


Storage- I will definitely have to post pictures of my setup... but basically you can go as large or small scale as you like.
1. I have a 250 gallon tank used to store mixed but dirty fuel (I mix 70% WMO to 30% waste heating oil #2 fuel).
2. A 250 gallon tank for clean centrifuged mix
3. A 500 gallon tank for my pure #2 heating oil / diesel what ever you have to cut your WMO

It is really nice if you can store your WMO in some form to let it "settle" before processing. As the WMO settles the hard particles get to the bottom... pull off the top with your pump into your "dirty" tank before processing. This will cut down on the filtering / centrifuging process.

Mixture- This is where the debate comes in. Ford guys that have IDI diesels and 7.3 Powerstrokes commonly run what they call W85. This is 85% WMO and 15% RUG (Regular Unleaded Gas). Some like myself mix diesel or home heating oil to cut or thin the mixture. I have got hocked up with folks that give me home heating oil. Little old ladies that go from fuel oil to heat their home to electric. Those home heating oil tanks are a liability these days so I go pump the #2 home heating oil out and remove the tank. Yea its a little work but worth a few hours for 100... 200... or even more free fuel.

I run 70% WMo to 30 % #2 Home heating oil in my 2 12 valves. When I had my 24 valve I ran 50-50 just for FYI with no problems.

Start thin and go up from there... your truck will let you know when enough is enough. I guess my biggest problem has been getting the mix to the injection pump... more about that later.

What to Modify on your Truck before you Run WMO- The great thing about WMO is you really don't have to do many modifications before running it. Filter good... pour in tank... and let her eat... WVO runs best at 160 plus degrees... so you really need to start on diesel... get to operating temps... then switch to "heated" WVO... switch back to diesel before switching off... allot of of work...

The biggest challenge is getting your mix to the injection pump...
1. In my 92 I run a high volume low pressure fuel pump designed by cummins for their tractor application. The stocker was 3 to 5 psi where the tractor pump is 10 to 12 psi.. It works great... as your filter starts to need replacing your pressure will go from 12 to 10... then 8... then 6.. then off a cliff at wide open skinny pedal... so it is time to replace the filter.
2. My 98 I run a Airdog 165 at about 35 to 40 psi... I say about because when you get that high temps will change the pressure depending on how hot or cold it is. I have fought correct pressure... filters... and junky Airdogs until this point I feel like I am close. I run a 10 micron napa primary filter (napa part # 3420) and a Napa fuel/water separator (part number escapes me but I ill add this later) that is a stocked part used as a spin on chevy diesel fuel filter. This combination has seemed to last the longest for me. You see at 30 to 40 psi my P7100 is not using that much fuel... so if the truck idles for any length of time (over 5 minutes to cause real "harm" to your filters) you are basically just running the fuel through the system filtering it over and over ... My 98 has a #10 fuel plate GSk and soem pump work. With the fuel plate pushed all the way up the smoke is pretty bad. I am not a ricer that likes to smoke up the whole road.. so I have my fuel plate about half back to control smoke... and my egts towing is never above 1200 degrees preturbo.. just how I like it.

Legal- I live in the state of SC. I complete a 1350 Miscellaneous Motor Fuel Report each month and give my $.16 to the state. It is totally up to me to report how much I run each month. This keeps me legal if I get stopped by the SC DOT (which I have never been stopped) There is ONE lady in the state of South Carolina that deals with people like me... yes she is on vacation... out of the office... sick kid... and so on all the time... but once you get set up I feel it is worth it. I would definitely check with your state to stay legal if you plan to run this long term. http://www.sctax.org/NR/rdonlyres/6D...L2098_Pack.pdf

Filtering- If you have made it here THANKS... this is THE MOST IMPORTANT PART of the process. If you fudge here or skimp it will cost you. I personally fell like that if you filter your WMO right you can run at least some WMO mix in every diesel out there. I started with a dieselcraft centrifuge several years back. It is a pretty good system that runs off pressure (big pain in the butt getting yourself a good pump to work that thing) basically you run your mix through this thing several times to clean it. Since I decided that WMO is going to work for me I have invested in a Raw Power centrifuge made by WVO designs. WVO Designs - Engineering Waste Oil Solutions This thing is well worth the grand it costs to buy. The basic Raw Power (which I have) will run 15 gallons give or take down to 1 micron in a single pass. I feel like I run my mix a whole lot slower than that. I start my centrifuge up in the afternoon and leat it eat all night. I can run 150 gallons in say 10 to 12 hours. lately I have have been running through once then back through again just so I feel better.

I have ran a 3 step filter set up in the past (search my user name.. I have posted pictures and details of this setup in the past)

I can't stress enough FILTER... FILTER.. FILTER... My recommendation is to pony up and buy the Raw Power... I promise you... look for a "good" centrifuge used... you won't find them... so if you decide it's not for you sell it off.

Lots more pictures to come. and feedback appreciated (please no bashing... if you don't agree with running WMO or WVO please hit the go back button now
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Old 08-24-2011, 12:31 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Bravo, keep it coming brother. When using WMO I've wondered bout other variables like timing and injectors. I noticed on my 92 my idle smoke decreased with advancement. On my 96 I'm ordering some 7x10 from cpp, cause I've read they burn cleaner. I've searched for wvo injector to no luck. If the 7 holes no good I'll put the stockers back in. I do know to big of an injector and she smokes all the time. Keep up the thread good info.
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Old 08-26-2011, 12:59 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Nice info! Thanks for sharing.
I am getting into wmo and svo for my trucks, I have 7 diesel vehicles and well you know the cost of fuel.
I run svo in my bobcat 322 mini excavator, as fuel, and in the hydraulic system. trouble free for about to years now.
I just ran 50 gallons of wmo for the first time in my 93 ford idi with no problems except the smell.

People say "that's a good'ol truck, she burn any oil?" and I just say YEP.
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Old 09-04-2011, 11:13 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Old 10-07-2011, 09:27 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Great writeup, waiting for pics.

I've run WMO intermittently for a couple years. anytime #2 goes over $4. I've been using a 2 micron Cim-Tek fuel filter inline after a 10 micron filter/sediment filter. I have yet to try WMO since I had a P pump convo done.

Centrifugal filters would be the way to go.

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Old 10-07-2011, 10:06 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5.9 rookie View Post
Bravo, keep it coming brother. When using WMO I've wondered bout other variables like timing and injectors. I noticed on my 92 my idle smoke decreased with advancement. On my 96 I'm ordering some 7x10 from cpp, cause I've read they burn cleaner. I've searched for wvo injector to no luck. If the 7 holes no good I'll put the stockers back in. I do know to big of an injector and she smokes all the time. Keep up the thread good info.
my inexperienced thoughts on injectors with WVO is that the smaller holes would be more beneficial because it'll atomize better, as long as it's hot

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Old 10-07-2011, 03:09 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I've been monitoring a UK alternative fuels forum for a while now and there is a guy from Arizona who has been doing a lot of experimenting on WVO and WMO and mixing. Even though the guy's got a screw loose and apparently saying that to him on their forum will cause you to be banned for life... (don't ask me how I know) He did comment that mixing WVO and WMO is a BIG NO NO! Apparently creating some kind of industrial glue or something. I personally have not done any testing to prove or disprove this but it is something that should be considered before trying it in the truck you love.

Oh and yes advancing your timing will help a more complete burn of the WVO/WMO because of the higher flash point of the oils.
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Old 10-07-2011, 03:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Some peoples feelings seem to get hurt easily I guess

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Old 10-10-2011, 05:55 PM   #9 (permalink)
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I think I know the other guy you are talking about Super.....JSB?? He seems like a genius when it comes to mixing WMO or any other combination of petroleum. I have been running the WMO at 50/50 mix with #2 since August, about 3000 miles with no noticeable problems, the truck actually seems to like that mix better then #2. I tried the W85 mix for one tank then figured I really didnt like that mix. More smoke at idle when sitting at a stop light. A couple things I have noticed, the truck smokes a tad at idle while cold, EGT's less then 500* but while running wide open on say an on ramp, there is alot less smoke with the 50/50 then there is with #2. I'm guessing that this comes down the the energy density in the WMO mix that allows the truck to build boost faster. I make my mix in my garage, I have a large compressor tank that I fill from a 35 gallon plastic drum. Then it passes through a Goldenrod 15 micron filter and into my 55 gal drum with a centrifuge mounted on the lid. I usually keep about 200 gallons in reserve, I let it settle at my work then just carry home about 50 gallons when I need to top of my tank. I will probably switch to a raw power setup. Once I can come up with a spare $1000 that I can't find anything else to do with . This works for me, saved me about the cost of the setup right now, of course the higher diesel prices go the less time it will take to recoup my investment. I've worked out a deal with a local auto shop, the service manager is also on of the mechanics and he gives me straight oil, no water or anti-freeze and I buy them a couple pizza's every time I make a pick up. I have found that ATF runs GREAT. It cleans really easy, even after the first pass there is very little dirt and clutch material to clean out. Just my $.02 but I think it's worth it
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Old 10-14-2011, 08:34 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Hi, merctech

ATF is cleener because it is already centrifuged in the torq convertor

so it is premium waste
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Old 10-25-2011, 04:04 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I was under the impression that ATF contained many very high flash point detergents and additives that would not burn properly. Also, doesn't it have some kind of friction modifier that might reek havoc on a rotary IP. Personally I'd try and stay away from ATF
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Old 11-22-2011, 01:01 AM   #12 (permalink)
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The detergents in atf are great for your fuel system. I have always run a quart per 100gal as a fuel additive with no problems. Im not sure about burning it straight though. I would at least run some in with my WMO as it is Thinner ( better up here in the northeast) and all those detergents should prevent any sludgeing due to oil that was used beyond its freshness date.


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