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Alternative Fuels, Additives, Oils & Lubricants Discussion Of Diesel, its Various Additives, Oils, Lubricates & Alternative Fuels EG. Bio-Diesel ect...NO ADVERTISING

 
       


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Old 01-03-2008, 08:43 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by syndicate View Post
With the DIY style setup running a pre turbo fogging setup at approx 1-2 psi is there a need for a regulator/converter to make sure you dont have liquid propane comming out the end of the hose? Does anyone know where to get a mounting bracket for a 20LB BBq tank?

I would def. say yes to the regulator. That will keep it at a nice light fog.
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Old 01-03-2008, 08:50 PM   #26 (permalink)
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Oh I know a regulator of some kind is needed but is a regulator/converter needed or can a simple gas regulator just be used?
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Old 01-04-2008, 10:50 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Tec it just don't work that way, 35 psi is also pushing on the propane, so forget about "sucking" anything from your pressured intake. You need a pressure higher than your boost pressure, then what about regulation, unless you rig some trick regulator that compensates for intake pressure....

It is just so much simpler to put it to the suction side.




Check this out, it may help you out
Propane Facts & Comparison Charts

Don`t sweat it, your turbo won`t light off the propane.....it just ain`t hot enough.
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Old 01-16-2008, 06:53 PM   #28 (permalink)
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i've now ran over 60 hours, and probably 3000 miles give or take on the system i described before, and after some tests, i have the pressure set at 10 psi, i put a guage on the end of the hose going from the regulator/valve assembly up to the intake, and at 2100 rpm i was reading 7psi, so i figured that running 9 psi will give me around 2 psi propane at a steady 75mph, i saw at least a 3 mpg gain, my best tank so far was to kansas city and back from my house, keeping it at 65 pretty much the whole time, NO CRUISE, and i got 33 mpg. my computer was reading 38. somethin, but the math was 542 miles and i was sitting at 3/8 of a tank, i put just over 16 gallons in!! before the propane i was getting just under 30 on the same trip. not to mention that unlike all my other oil changes where my oil is the usual nasty black, after over 6k miles since i installed the system, half of which or more i was running the propane, my oil looks as clean as it was when i put it in, it is an almost ridiculously clear amber color just like it was when it came out of the rotella t bottle. i do think that i should put the feed on the negative pressure side of the turbo, but i just think that having propane running that close to the exhaust gasses seems really risky. the 20 pound tank im using still isn't quite empty, i can feel it's gettin pretty light, but i still get 10 psi at the guage, so it's still got some left in it. considering propane is 12 bucks for a 20 pound tank that lasts over 3k miles, and adds 3 mpg, it is defintely worth the money.
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Old 04-09-2008, 02:10 PM   #29 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gstanfield View Post
grab a spare bottle for a grill, then get an adjustable regulator from Ace harware (in the propane grill accesories isle) they have a heater buddy brand one that goes from 0-40psi. Then hook it to a good 0-15psi gauge and adjust the regulator for 1.5psi or thereabouts (experiment) Then run a line to the air filter and be careful if you're afraid of it getting left on by an ooops moment add an electric solenoid and a pressure switch so that it will only come on with 2-3psi of boost pressure (or whatever setting you choose)

You'll have to tinker a bit and experiment, but you can get good results just by being resourceful. BTW, a normal grill regulator is 1/2psi and doesn't really put out enough to be worth while.

Any more question, feel free to ask.

A price breakdown is as follows:
Regulator $40
gauge $25
Hoses $15
Bottle $free if you have it around

If you want to add a solenoid for mounting the tank outside the truck (my way was with it sitting in the passenger floorboard while I experimented) then add to the cost

Air solenoid $20
pressure switch $15

So there you have it, a good setup for less than the cost of a full tank of fuel that should net you around 2-3 mpg depending on your setup of course.

George
George only one point on your setup as described the BBQ tank is illeagal for a storage vessal for "motor fuel" per the DOT if its on a auto for use as fuel propane must be in an approved dot tank. In case of accident you can be sure your insurance company will deny all coverage under the terms of fraud. If it was me I'd pony up the extra $ for a good dot tank which will also last a lot longer. Jm2cents.
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Old 04-09-2008, 04:21 PM   #30 (permalink)
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What kind of regulator do yall reccomend using?Im gonna try this and i have a tank off a forklift,what do u guys think? thanks Zack
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Old 04-09-2008, 05:39 PM   #31 (permalink)
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spooled05, you want to watch what you are doing with a bottle from a forklift as it has a pipe off the valve that draws liquid propane. I just Googled "Propane Diesel Injection" and read a bit very interesting. I worked on engines and had LPG, Dual fuel systems, they worked real good if you got the gas real cheap. the things I really remember is if the gas air mix got above 6% you could get preignition. and that is a bad thing, they used it as power booster, the price of fuel at that time was not an issue. Play safe!
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Old 04-09-2008, 07:50 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Tap the intake horn or buy one like ATS that is already tapped.
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Old 04-11-2008, 08:53 PM   #33 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gstanfield View Post
Explain to me how PRESSURE is going to SUCK anything. You obviously don't have a clue as to what you are talking about, which is OK, just don't go talking to people like they are stupid based off your gross ignorance.

If you would either do a little reading up on basic physics or just research other peoples hard work of experimenting then you might be able to understand. Otherwise I really couldn't care less what you think about it. If it's not for you then fine. You obviously do not have enough understanding of how these engines work in order to tell other people what they should or shouldn't do. Of course that's just my opinion.

BTW, Nitrous is injected into the engine at 600psi and higher so it easily overcomes the intake presures.

George
there is such a thing as negative pressure which would cause the sucking that we all love
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Old 04-14-2008, 05:42 PM   #34 (permalink)
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You just need a venturi in a pressure environment. Race cars use them in the exhaust to pull case pressure into it. Any 1/8 or 1/16 tube will work with a slant cut on aft side of flow. Planes use them also to pull vacuum on piss tubes. As long as there is a flow of air going across the tube you are good. As gstanfield stated intoducing a low pressure into a static higher pressure environment they will just try to equal but this is far from inert environment. Im building a hydro gen now. Just got my nickel rods. I will post pics of build.
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Old 04-17-2008, 04:55 PM   #35 (permalink)
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My venturi
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Old 04-18-2008, 11:37 PM   #36 (permalink)
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This is going to be used on intake horn.
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