Check this out MAJOR MPG GAINS

[Diesel Pastor]

Originally Posted by bbraden

19 amps is quite a bit. I wonder how that's gonna affect alternator life? The more I watch those videos about it though the more intrigued I am... lol I bet that thing wouldn't be hard to duplicate at all on our own. The hardest part would be figuring out what metals they use inside the reactor as the catalyst. And getting the reactor itself to seal up airtight.

Ok, I know a *little bit* about this subject because of my experience in the Navy. While I was stationed on Adak, AK (small island 2/3 out the Aleutian chain) I supported the weather station for the airbase. We used a hydrogen generator to make hydrogen for use in high altitude weather balloons.

Basically it's just a big battery, only instead of storing electricity with H and O2 as a byproduct, it was designed to produce H and O2 with stored electricity as the byproduct. So I'm assuming that the metal plates would be the same as in a battery. Maybe zinc and lead?

Now keep in mind this was a big unit in a room all by itself. But it worked really well. We just vented the O2 to the atmosphere since we didn't use it. Also the H2O breaks down into twice as much H as O2.

What I don't understand about this process is how the H helps the combustion process so that you get so much better emissions and mileage. I can see where the O2 would help, but I know the unit wouldn't produce enough O2 to make it worth your while.

Just my 2¢

__________________
'05 2500 SLT 4X4, 5.9L, Brute Force Air Intake, CFM+ Intake Manifold, Bully Dog Triple Dog Downloader w Outlook Monitor, Aero Turbine muffler, FS2500 Bypass oil filter, Line-X bedliner, Peragon tonneau cover, XM Satellite radio. Now with propane injection!!
"If you, O LORD, kept a record of sins, O Lord, who could stand? But with you there is forgiveness; therefore you are feared."
Psalm 130:3-4

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Last edited by Diesel Pastor : 11-22-2007 at 03:57 PM. Reason: corrected typo

[Diesel Pastor]

Originally Posted by DNRCUSTOMS

Hmmm... I just read every one of those posts on the previous discussion almost a year ago. I just learned a bunch. I am trying to make time to call, But I am working a ton of hours and haven't had time to follow up. If Anybody calls, please post any new info you got. I am eager to ask if they are running through the intercooler and not in the intake tube. Thanks

I don't see how you could run this through the intake manifold. The website says that it relies on vacuum to move the gas to the intake. But the manifold has positive pressure because of the work of the turbo. So how do you move the gas to the intake manifold w/o a vacuum? The same principle would hold true for any injection point that was post-turbo.

If there was a way to do this, then most of the new manifolds are already ported for H2O/methane, propane, NOS kits. The H2O/methane and propanet kits use Hobbs switches to measure boost to know when to inject the gas. I'm assuming you could inject gas into the manifold if you wanted to though.

__________________
'05 2500 SLT 4X4, 5.9L, Brute Force Air Intake, CFM+ Intake Manifold, Bully Dog Triple Dog Downloader w Outlook Monitor, Aero Turbine muffler, FS2500 Bypass oil filter, Line-X bedliner, Peragon tonneau cover, XM Satellite radio. Now with propane injection!!
"If you, O LORD, kept a record of sins, O Lord, who could stand? But with you there is forgiveness; therefore you are feared."
Psalm 130:3-4

[johntf]

Just posting to keep an eye on this , sounds good so far .

[Diesel Pastor]

Originally Posted by pblankenship

From what I understand they are running it into the intake elbow (i.e. pressure side). They create a venturi effect, you should read some of the info on their page, some of their affiliates (local distributors) also have information on how they install the units on the diesel, I looked at the one here in WA. I don't have an after market elbow yet but this could be a good enough reason to get one, one that is already drilled and tapped that is.

You know, I really should read the *entire* thread before I begin pontificating so that I don't ask a question that someone else has already answered!

__________________
'05 2500 SLT 4X4, 5.9L, Brute Force Air Intake, CFM+ Intake Manifold, Bully Dog Triple Dog Downloader w Outlook Monitor, Aero Turbine muffler, FS2500 Bypass oil filter, Line-X bedliner, Peragon tonneau cover, XM Satellite radio. Now with propane injection!!
"If you, O LORD, kept a record of sins, O Lord, who could stand? But with you there is forgiveness; therefore you are feared."
Psalm 130:3-4

[Diesel Pastor]

Originally Posted by megadually

Hopefully there is more than one positive feedback on this. I have become leary about things that sound to good to be true by learning the hard way. If this did what it said why doesn't everyone have them? Hopefully some more people will try this with good results. I have about gone broke trying things that people told me I coulndn't live without. I heard the good side of the propane issue and tried it and didn't see the gains I was told I was going to get and I ended up getting my money back. All I got was a bad cylinder that was blamed on the use of propane. I have ruined 2 CR's listening to other peoples advice so I think it is someone elses turn.

Well, at the risk of being a naysayer, I'm running propane and am very happy with it. Of course, I haven't tried racing with it or anything even close to that. But it does give me much better mileage even with the propane usage figured in. And I have the propane down to a mild level so that I don't burn anything out.

Of course, I could just be experiencing the same confidence of the guy that jumped off a building thinking he could fly. As he passed the fourth floor on his way down he thought to himself "So far so good!"

__________________
'05 2500 SLT 4X4, 5.9L, Brute Force Air Intake, CFM+ Intake Manifold, Bully Dog Triple Dog Downloader w Outlook Monitor, Aero Turbine muffler, FS2500 Bypass oil filter, Line-X bedliner, Peragon tonneau cover, XM Satellite radio. Now with propane injection!!
"If you, O LORD, kept a record of sins, O Lord, who could stand? But with you there is forgiveness; therefore you are feared."
Psalm 130:3-4

[dodgerep]

Originally Posted by DNRCUSTOMS

Sounds good, that is what I am going to do when I get mine. Have it set to ignition pwr, but on a switch so I can turn it on and off when I want. So running empy, no load. you went from say 20mpg to the mid 30's? Also you plumbed it right before the intake horn, wouldn't it be eiser to drill and tap the manifold insted of the intercooler boot. Plus it would be closer to the motor. Just my thought. What do ya think. there must be a reason why you put yours where you did??

yes, there is. IN the event you were to get any moisture continuing to that point in the form of H2O and ont Hydrogen, the distance to the intake and the increasing heat would or should be more than significant to evaportate the water to steam. The simple heat of the approaching engine would stimulate the molecules enough to cause disipation and thus avoid any water entring the engine. I have talked to a nuclear physicist I know who was pretty sure that placing the inlet too close to the motor could be a problem if in fact moisture was allowed past the bricks (not likely)the close proximity while it would most likely see the same results, it would only add a safetyu buffer. The vaccum of the engine is more than enough to draw the hydrogen the short distance with no loss of power benefit.

Hope that helps.

__________________
Tim Blondin
Taylor, Texas...Ya'll!!
www.giddyupngo.com

[dodgerep]

Originally Posted by MNRAM

I wonder how dealers would view this as far as a warrenty issue on our trucks?

there is no reason a dealer should or would argue any warranty issues on this, especially since it makes the engien work less, not more as most add ons do.

__________________
Tim Blondin
Taylor, Texas...Ya'll!!
www.giddyupngo.com

[dodgerep]

Originally Posted by Diesel Pastor

Well, at the risk of being a naysayer, I'm running propane and am very happy with it. Of course, I haven't tried racing with it or anything even close to that. But it does give me much better mileage even with the propane usage figured in. And I have the propane down to a mild level so that I don't burn anything out.

Of course, I could just be experiencing the same confidence of the guy that jumped off a building thinking he could fly. As he passed the fourth floor on his way down he thought to himself "So far so good!"

Pastor,

Propane is a good alternative, the major difference here is I pay .53 per gallon of distilled water and a teaspoon of baking soda, I don't have to have a storage tank that takes up valuable space, and my system paid for itself within 4 weeks of installation saving me an average of $478 per week in fuel per truck.

to address the other question you posted. Hydrogen being up to 5X more volatile then gasoline, allows the combustion in the chamber to happen faster and while the piston is at a higher point, so as it explodes, the piston is travelin further without expending that energy sooner.. LEt me try to explain this clearer so I understand it

If the piston has to reach a certain point before combustion actually occurs in normal situation, say 20% of the way down, it is using energy from other pistons to create the energy to make that reaction occur. If that reaction could occur at say 10% of the way down instead of 20, it is using that additional energy for pushing the vehicle and not trying to explode the next reaction.

Does that kind of help? I am not very good at explaining these things without going into a lot of detail which most would not read anyway.

I am happy to answer any questions.beer

__________________
Tim Blondin
Taylor, Texas...Ya'll!!
www.giddyupngo.com

[pblankenship]

dodgerep,

have you had any success in setting up the venturis so that the system will accept the H at higher boost levels? I am a little skeptical putting this on a big rig because when they are pulling 105,500 down the road they are usually sitting at about 15 psi of boost, and this would be the typical situation that I would want to see the engine using the hydrogen, when it is under load.

There is a distributor in Michigan, I think it was extreme truck and trailer, and they are going to do some R&D to see about setting up a venturi that will allow the system to accept the gas at about 18 psi of boost. So I think that I am going to wait a little bit.

__________________
2001 Cummins with AEM Intake, BD pusher pump, Edge J/A and Smarty stacked, FBD VP44, Jake Brake, HTT hx35/40 hybrid, Coaltrain 5 in. Exhaust, Coaltrain 100 hp sticks, RevTec leveler, Nitto's, Valair 500hp Clutch, Bully Dog Fluid Damper, Firestone Air Ride...

[dodgerep]

Originally Posted by pblankenship

dodgerep,

have you had any success in setting up the venturis so that the system will accept the H at higher boost levels? I am a little skeptical putting this on a big rig because when they are pulling 105,500 down the road they are usually sitting at about 15 psi of boost, and this would be the typical situation that I would want to see the engine using the hydrogen, when it is under load.

There is a distributor in Michigan, I think it was extreme truck and trailer, and they are going to do some R&D to see about setting up a venturi that will allow the system to accept the gas at about 18 psi of boost. So I think that I am going to wait a little bit.

wel, the mag drive system and set up I use is actually for a big rig. as far as boost levels etc.. I can pull 41 psi of boost when I hammer on it, and 38 is not uncommon if I am getting into it, so the per square inch value is the same as you are talking. therefore you will not have a problem or in all theory you shouldn't. Another thing that may help you put this into perspective is that the ISB is really out of a big truck, or mid sized FL60. SO, the performance aspects are pretty similiar. 30 psi is 30 psi whether in a tire or a turbo or a blow up doll.. I uh i .. or so i hear!

__________________
Tim Blondin
Taylor, Texas...Ya'll!!
www.giddyupngo.com

[penche07]

Originally Posted by dodgerep

yes, there is. IN the event you were to get any moisture continuing to that point in the form of H2O and ont Hydrogen, the distance to the intake and the increasing heat would or should be more than significant to evaportate the water to steam. The simple heat of the approaching engine would stimulate the molecules enough to cause disipation and thus avoid any water entring the engine. I have talked to a nuclear physicist I know who was pretty sure that placing the inlet too close to the motor could be a problem if in fact moisture was allowed past the bricks (not likely)the close proximity while it would most likely see the same results, it would only add a safetyu buffer. The vaccum of the engine is more than enough to draw the hydrogen the short distance with no loss of power benefit.

Hope that helps.

Yes that is what I was concerned with. If in any case water past the bricks could that kill an engine. Dodgerep I was viewing the video they have on you tube and they placed the nozzles on the intake tube near the throttle body on a natuarlly aspirated engine. So your saying the safest position to install on our engines would be on the intake horn, basically where they plumb for a boost gauge, correct? If I installed an on and off switch when would you want the Mag Drive off. Would you want to let the engine reach operating temp then turn it on? Excuse all of my questions but this maybe a break through for all the high diesel prices. BTW thanks for sharing any of your information.

__________________
2007 5.9 4x4 6 speed Lone Star Quad cab. Equipped with Hot Edge Juice/Att straight piped. Isspro Fuel, Egt, Boost With Cool Blue hose, Amsoil 4091 and an IceBox

[dodgerep]

Originally Posted by penche07

Yes that is what I was concerned with. If in any case water past the bricks could that kill an engine. Dodgerep I was viewing the video they have on you tube and they placed the nozzles on the intake tube near the throttle body on a natuarlly aspirated engine. So your saying the safest position to install on our engines would be on the intake horn, basically where they plumb for a boost gauge, correct? If I installed an on and off switch when would you want the Mag Drive off. Would you want to let the engine reach operating temp then turn it on? Excuse all of my questions but this maybe a break through for all the high diesel prices. BTW thanks for sharing any of your information.

The system is already set up for an on and off. Yes I would make sure the system is at operationg temperature before turning the system on. yes at the intake, there is an elbow the system can be plumbed into.

__________________
Tim Blondin
Taylor, Texas...Ya'll!!
www.giddyupngo.com