Coolant heated fuel filter

[AZBLACKSMOKE]

Does anyone know of a coolant heated fuel filter? I am actually looking for an application. I know there's HD trucks that come with them...I think, I just dont think they are very popular in AZ. So If anyone has some tabs on a application let me know. I need one for my SVO project, and I am not interested in the ones that Frybred , etc. sell...I am looking for a specific one from like Kenworth or Cat or whatever. If I had the application, I may be able to score it from my vendor sources at work. Thanks.

__________________
2001 Chevy Xcab,4x4,LB7/Allison, Straight4in, predator.
Previously a 12valver...

[DieselBurps]

I'm running a Racor 690 with a coolant heated "sleeve" made out of 1/2" aluminum tubing. It's warm enough in FL for the grease to flow through the filter year-round, but there are problems with unheated grease clogging the filters a lot quicker. This sleeve should help keep the filter temperatures up a bit. The idea of wrapping a marine filter is pretty common amongst the WVO crowd.

One of the best commercially available heated filters is the Davco 234. It is built specifically for WVO filtering.

Have you picked up a heat exchanger yet? The 12"x5"x1" flat plate exchangers seem to do the job nicely. My wife's truck consistently gets 163 *F out of hers - which is perfect. I should know what mine gets shortly - my valves just came in so I'll be rushing to finish up the installation this week! I would be concerned about anything smaller - it may not be sufficient.

[AZBLACKSMOKE]

No, I havent picked a heat exchanger up yet. I have been looking at them on ebay but thats as far as I have gotten.

Stupid Question: I havent been able to decipher from pictures excactly where the heat exchanger goes?????

I would love to have a Frybred system or something like that, but so far I am trying to put my own together. I have a Pollack tank switch so far...but I pretty much need everything else. I figured i could get by with the coolant heated filter, and I plan on making my own tank with heated coils in it similiar to these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/WVO-BIODIESEL-co...QQcmdZViewItem

Gotta try out my new Tig welder.

I am hopin the heated tank, and filter will work for me...excpecially since i am in AZ.

Any pictures or diagrams you may have and could hook me up with, i would really appreciate it. So far, I am doing everything from scratch and by what i read on the internet. I have been spending hours in WVO/SVO forums and have gotton many good ideas...but its all kinda overwhelming....I guess its all trial and error......

__________________
2001 Chevy Xcab,4x4,LB7/Allison, Straight4in, predator.
Previously a 12valver...

[Fueling Around]

www.arctic-fox.com
This place produces a lot of fuel heaters. I haven't asked them if they tested WVO.

__________________
John
1997 CTD RAM, red, auto, stock except for select maintenance items
If it's gonna leave a mark, make it a "C"

[DieselBurps]

Originally Posted by AZBLACKSMOKE

Stupid Question: I havent been able to decipher from pictures excactly where the heat exchanger goes?????

I built a bracket for my wife's truck and mounted the heat exchanger on that. For mine, I've been somewhat creative - I've bought a cargo box that mounts in the bed and I'm putting ALL of the hardware in that - and the tank. It's a nice, clean setup - much more straightforward than any commercial system.

I route the WVO through the heat exchanger - then to the selector valve. Both fuels come out of the valve and pass through a temperature sensor, a pressure sensor then an inline glass filter. Next stop is the IP. This allows me to watch the temperature of the fuel and the pressure. If the pressure drops, odds are it is time to change the filter. Keeping the fuel temperature up will prevent carboning up the engine. Those two gauges are what I would consider the minimum for safe WVO usage.

The Pollak valves have a history of failing when heat is applied for an extended time. I just bought some Hydraforce valves for this application. I got the big ones - SV31-10 - I'm planning on beefing the power on my truck and I want to make sure fuel supply is not a problem. Search on hydraforce.com and you'll find them. They aren't cheap, but I've got 1/2" fuel lines everywhere else - I didn't want the restriction.

[AZBLACKSMOKE]

Originally Posted by DieselBurps

I built a bracket for my wife's truck and mounted the heat exchanger on that. For mine, I've been somewhat creative - I've bought a cargo box that mounts in the bed and I'm putting ALL of the hardware in that - and the tank. It's a nice, clean setup - much more straightforward than any commercial system.

I route the WVO through the heat exchanger - then to the selector valve. Both fuels come out of the valve and pass through a temperature sensor, a pressure sensor then an inline glass filter. Next stop is the IP. This allows me to watch the temperature of the fuel and the pressure. If the pressure drops, odds are it is time to change the filter. Keeping the fuel temperature up will prevent carboning up the engine. Those two gauges are what I would consider the minimum for safe WVO usage.

The Pollak valves have a history of failing when heat is applied for an extended time. I just bought some Hydraforce valves for this application. I got the big ones - SV31-10 - I'm planning on beefing the power on my truck and I want to make sure fuel supply is not a problem. Search on hydraforce.com and you'll find them. They aren't cheap, but I've got 1/2" fuel lines everywhere else - I didn't want the restriction.

The heat exchanger...is it electric or heated off coolant?

Are your temp gauge and pressure gauge mounted in the cab? Or in the cargo box?

__________________
2001 Chevy Xcab,4x4,LB7/Allison, Straight4in, predator.
Previously a 12valver...

[DieselBurps]

Originally Posted by AZBLACKSMOKE

The heat exchanger...is it electric or heated off coolant?

The flat plate heat exchanger is coolant based. In my truck, I've mounted it in the bed box - and I anticipate losing some temperature on the journey up to the IP. To counter that, I've added two glow plug heaters - each should boost the temperature of the WVO up by about 20 *F. They are individually controlled - so I can observe and control the heating of the fuel. They also have thermostats - to stop adding heat if they crack 167 *F.

Originally Posted by AZBLACKSMOKE

Are your temp gauge and pressure gauge mounted in the cab? Or in the cargo box?

The gauges go in the cab! I don't want to have to stop and look in the box to see what is going on. I went with a nice set of Autometer Cobalt gauges - all electrical (except the EGT). Oh yeah - I've also put an EGT on the A-pillar mounting pod. I do intend to build some power out of this truck.

[Jeff H]

Think I'll make a stop over in Delano. Thanks John.

__________________
1995 Dodge 4x4 5spd 5.9 Cummins 175 hp engine. 275k miles http://www.youtube.com/profile?user=jdhein974

[AZBLACKSMOKE]

Originally Posted by DieselBurps

The flat plate heat exchanger is coolant based. In my truck, I've mounted it in the bed box - and I anticipate losing some temperature on the journey up to the IP. To counter that, I've added two glow plug heaters - each should boost the temperature of the WVO up by about 20 *F. They are individually controlled - so I can observe and control the heating of the fuel. They also have thermostats - to stop adding heat if they crack 167 *F.

DB,
Where did you get your thermostats at for your GP heaters? Also, How did you wire them in? Thanks.

__________________
2001 Chevy Xcab,4x4,LB7/Allison, Straight4in, predator.
Previously a 12valver...

[DieselBurps]

Originally Posted by AZBLACKSMOKE

DB,
Where did you get your thermostats at for your GP heaters? Also, How did you wire them in? Thanks.

http://www.fenwalcontrols.com/temper...ats.shtml#0801

I'd suggest the probe-type ones - I think they will be more accurate as they will touch the fuel directly, not the metal surrounding the fuel. I've got the surface mount ones and I'm not completely satisfied with them. They beat nothing though. My dash-switch powers them through a relay. Power from the relay is cut if the temperature exceeds the thermodisk's max level. I should be testing them out this weekend - finally!

Make sure you mount glow plug heaters with the fuel inlet and outlet at the top, and the glow plugs upside down where they will not have to deal with air bubbles. Air bubbles will kill them - the air doesn't transmit the heat to the thermodisk fast enough and they with either self destruct or blow a fuse.

[buzzinhalfdoz]

why would you not want the fuel any hoter than 167 degrees. what happens if your diesel or diesel-wvo mix is hot as the water?(180-210)

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03 2500 SLT 4x4 ,std cab,5 speed,volant air,flow muffler, quadzilla mpg mod,afe intake,1"taller tire,50hp sticks(OUCH),2-stroke oil,fitch.best 26 mpg empty,22 mpg 2000 lbs load,18-19 mpg pulling 5000 lb.240,000 miles now.10,000 between oil,original IP.25%wvo.