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Running WVO in 1998/12V with hard-closed return

3K views 9 replies 4 participants last post by  MikeGoodman59 
#1 ·
I have 125K+ miles on WVO. Converted a MB300SD, a VW Rabbit. Paid to have 98/2500 converted, Golden Fuels Systems. ("Greasel"), some regrets for my laziness. Have 20K+ on the conversion. Have made BD and use the a CF system for filtration.

To anyone running WVO:

1) Would a hard closed loop one selector valve w/hard closed brass loop/return present a problem to the IP or Injectors or for extended uses on diesel only, even if min 10% WVO in diesel.

2) GFS's GV10's are proving to be a problem in not holding up. Have you ever used? If not, what solenoids do you use?

3) Has anyone else found that nylon-braid tube fails to hold up to heat? Does anyone use clear "sight" filters. If so, where/

Details:

I'd like to do something along the lines of the hard closed loop like I had on my MB and VW. A 6-port Pollack supply side with a brass 3-way closed loop. Never a problem on the MB which has (if I'm correct) a similar Bosch IP.

If I run closed loop I'd like to keep a blend of 10% in the WVO to keep lubricity up. I've run up to 50% in the MB with heat added (Vegtherm) as needed.

Thanks in advance,
 
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#3 ·
I have a dual tank system,
I had to add a Raw Power pump to achieve a good fuel pressure. The stock lift pump was just not doing it sucking the cold wvo from the tank...
I use 2 X 3-way valve and a check-valve system like vegpower system.
Since I have 2 completely separated system, the diesel side has a normal return, and the wvo side has a closed loop.
It works pretty good... but the whole system, with the Raw Power pump is not cheap.

1. If you run a blend, to set up a closed loop will be more efficient to heat up you fuel!

3. I only use fuel line, no nylon nor clear line... only SAE 30R9...

I use screw on canister type filter on my VM2 filter. There an insulation boot that fits over it.

I would not do 50% blend single tank... except if you live somewhere hot...
I read that MB can run straight wvo... but I would not do this in a cummins...
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the feedback. Nice to know others still plugging away. With today's pipeline leak ... those memories of selling coffee on gas lines in 1973 come rushing back.

Several points ... all of yours GREAT. Some clarification. I live in central (Piedmont) NC (warm most times).

1) What is your check valve for?

2) Raw Power pushes WVO only?

3) Isn't the SAE 30R9... HIGH TEMP? I use 6-inches either side of the VegTherm tube heater in my MB. I have a VT Mega I'm thinking of putting on the 5.9L. Dodge is cool running. Would like quicker shift over.

4) I never ran straight WVO ... blended in the MB. I had a "pleasant mess-up" once in July and ran 50% by accident. 10% in winter, 35% in S/F, up to 50%. That has a fixed closed loop. Proved okay (here) but PER YOUR ADVICE ... WILL AVOID BLENDING in the Dodge. Any WVO that goes back on purge is minuscule if I keep full.

5) In Dodge I run a solenoid closed loop with separate returns but when a $120 (GFS Chinese garbage!) valve crapped out I moved the separate timed purge (see GFS) over to my loop valve. I replaced with a fixed 3-way brass valve and now purge WVO back to diesel for 1 minute ... that's the timer setting that worked. Charles Anderson says a 6-Port Pollack will support the system. He's (over)-sold on his system but proven to be overly complicated.

6) Sunwizard []flash point/specific gravity TESTED : 2 Tank veggie oil conversion and General discussion has a 96 or 97 and was an early proponent of the diesel-craft CF system. I have used it for over 8 years. SunWiz uses manual valves kept under the truck (pics in link) with the actuators (only) stuck through the floor at the driveshaft hump. He uses the stock pump for both fuels but must be heating it up a LOT in (I think) Alaska. He absorbs a greater purge time but ... it's ALASKA!

7) My common lift pump is a Raptor AirDog (RP-150 or RPf150) ... whichever has a lifetime warranty. After several early failures this one's had about 3 years. They stand by it and have good tech support. It is set to 18 psi while on WVO and keeps 16 on diesel. It serves both fuels after the source select valve. This means it runs under vacuum but aside from the occasional air problems is okay.

8) Getting rid of remaining nylon will help any air leaks. More a sales pitch item to look at fuel. I had to put a Facet "cube" pump under the MB diesel tank. Never a problem with WVO. Have one for under the Dodge, if needed.

9) My WVO side has a large internal element filter which has never clogged. I've changed it to be safe but the centrifuge takes it sub-micron. This is my filter: https://s3.amazonaws.com/images.ecwid.com/images/212229/5064634.jpg. Am looking at your VM2 filter (WVO?). The Racor has done alright on the diesel side.

Thanks ...
Mike Goodman
 
#5 ·
Question: is there an internal filter on the fuel tank to a 2500 5.9? If so, is it hard to clean.

I am running on diesel/WVO. I thought I had an air leak and valve problem fixed but there's been a problem with air on start. I've been able to purge at a gauge line but that has become increasingly difficult.

The last time I started ... 3 days ago ... it started. I saw an air leak (in a clear "tell" line) and changed out some hose. When I started up after ... right then ... the pump would not pull.

NOTE: I am not using the stock lift pump but a Raptor AirDog. It's not been a problem. Has the lift from the tank, supplies 18-20 psi to IP.

Given the valve situation I decided to run directly from the tank to the vent to purge. Wouldn't pull. I tried another, smaller FACET cube pump. No pull.

So ..

1) Want to test the Raptor from a 5 gal tank on ground.
2) If that works I want to apply 5-8 psi to the fuel line with the tank cap off.
3) If that works then there was something clogging the tank (filter?).

Is there a procedure anywhere for taking down the tank? Cleaning the filter, if there is one?

Also, if the lift pump has been in but not used over 60K miles is it toast? Or can it be replumbed? If not is it a hard pump to find, install?
 
#6 ·
One additional note ... in changing the valves (select and return are separate Golden Fuel valves) ... I had found the return was sending WVO to the diesel tank. I was never going to blend once I'd heard from you guys ...

SO ... I siphoned what I could and added diesel so it was no more than a 25% blend. Warm enough. Should have flowed. WVO is centrifuged sub-micron.

Don't know how that affects filter in tank. Problems did seem to get worse after inadvertent blend.

Thanks in advance.
 
#9 ·
In my opinion, blending should never be done if the ambient temperatures have the potential to get below 55 degrees Fahrenheit unless some kind of pre-heater is utilized at the bottom of the tank near the pickup tube to warm and dissolve the fats that solidify. With my research I found that various fats have melting points from 45 to 145 degrees so even if your blends seem clear at 55 degrees a small drop in temperature can cause the fats to solidify and precipitate to the bottom of your tank.

Running WVO either blended or in a 2 tank system needs to be done correctly to avoid mechanical issues. Unfortunately everyone wants to try it on the cheap and end up broke down on the side of the road somewhere. It really is an investment that pays for itself but you still have to invest both your time, knowledge and money.
 
#10 ·
A solid reply, thanks. I blended in the MB ... 10% in the winter ... CF'd fuel, no water. Did see waxy build up on the top of a tank of cold/clean fuel, so yes ... fats. Had not made the connection to the pick-up tube ... but the problems I described were warm weather. Still, I will work this blend out and then do zero purposeful blending. Worked on MB, maybe not in Dodge. Not trying to get by on the cheap, but I do see your point. Had heat all over the place but not on D2 tank.

All the best, and thanks. Stop by if ever close.

Mike Goodman
High Point, NC
 
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