used veggie oil/bio diesel conversion

[97cummins1ton]

any one done a full or part conversion to bio diesel or veggie oil to a 12v?? im seriously planning on it, just wondering for some info or advice.

[Aprilia]

Lots of information available on the web. The 12V with the Bosch injection pump is great for conversion to WVO, but you would need a second fuel tank. Plantdrive.com has systems available for the 1997 Dodge 12V at a reasonable price. I did a custom conversion using two tanks and put in separate electric pumps (AirDog) and filter setups (one each for diesel and for WVO). You have to heat the WVO up to around 180 degrees to get the viscosity low enough for full atomization from the injectors. I used two flat plate heat exchangers with coolant as the heat source and a 12 volt inline heater (veggiemax) prior to the fuel injection pump. The advantage of using electric pumps is that you can combine the two fuel sources using a Y-block at the input to the injection pump and switch between the sources using a three way electric switch to the pumps. The fuel return path is controlled by a separate electric switch to a 3-way valve. An additional 3-way valve could be used to loop the return fuel to keep the heat up, but I am using big heat exchangers so it is not necessary.
In short, do a web search and read up on available system designs and pick one that fits your budget and determine if you want to do a self install or pay someone to do the conversion. Lastly, make sure that you have a source of oil before you take on this project or you won't be getting the savings that you expect. Good luck!

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97 Dodge 2500, NV4500 5 spd, 3.54 rear, TST #10 plate, S&B air intake, CoolingMist methanol injection, AirDog, jake brake, 4" exhaust to 5" tip

[macattack_ga]

Originally Posted by 97cummins1ton

any one done a full or part conversion to bio diesel or veggie oil to a 12v?? im seriously planning on it, just wondering for some info or advice.

Good Forum: FRYBRID SVO/WVO FORUM an open and public discussion of Vegetable Oil as a fuel

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1997 3500 ExCab 4x4 Auto 3.55 (KDP Tabbed, EGT & Tranny Gauged, Fuel filter "PrimeLoc"ed, oil Amsoil Dual By-passed) 3 switch WVO setup (tank/filter/tank), PCS Boxed
1981 BJ42 (Full Alum Tub, 3B, H42, split case, 4.11 open)

[12VEG]

what kind of info and advice are you looking for?

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1997 2500 SCLB 290,XXX - 5-spd. 4x4, pump tuned with #10 plate, K&N CAI, no sil. ring, KDP tabbed, Autometer C2 Boost, Pyro, & Fuel gauges, BFG All-Terrains, HD Veggie Oil System, B100 & WVO burner! Working on the VGT Turbo conversion, soon to have Valair single disc...
http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...20the%20Dodge/

[97cummins1ton]

ok.. maybe i should have explained more... i know all about how to do it. i was really lookin for anyone who has allready done one and the results they got or any advice on "what not to do", or the "i would have done's"

[macattack_ga]

I am doing it. Use only clean/dewatered oil. Make use the oil gets hot before and you purge after. Best for long hauls and towing. Don't idle a lot.

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1997 3500 ExCab 4x4 Auto 3.55 (KDP Tabbed, EGT & Tranny Gauged, Fuel filter "PrimeLoc"ed, oil Amsoil Dual By-passed) 3 switch WVO setup (tank/filter/tank), PCS Boxed
1981 BJ42 (Full Alum Tub, 3B, H42, split case, 4.11 open)

[TNCARDOC]

I run a two tank system that I made my self.

I filter to 5 micron and let the oil set for a week and pump of the top about 30 gal. at a time.

I use 55 gal. drums for filtering tanks.

For short trips I use biodiesel and on long trips or towwing I ues WVO

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97 long bed auto 2x4 3.50 gear 21mpg on biodiesel no smoke 4 inch turbo back new muffler, I MUST BE GETTING OLD boost, trans temp, pyro gauges 250k miles and more running two tank system WVO driving allmost FREE

[12VEG]

Originally Posted by 97cummins1ton

ok.. maybe i should have explained more... i know all about how to do it. i was really lookin for anyone who has allready done one and the results they got or any advice on "what not to do", or the "i would have done's"

THe most important part of WVOing is to use water-free, non-hydrogenated, and well filtered oil! The popular way I would say is through 2 or more stage heated sock filtration, which is what I do, but you can take it steps further into the world of the centrifuge, which I would do if i had the time any monet for. If you have the time and resources, course filtering, heating and settling are good primary steps to take before final filtering.

The second most important part IMO is proper heating of the oil before injection. ~170*-180* is what I would say (and have researched to find) is the proper temp, anything below that and the viscosity will be less desirable. It's good to be anal about how well you do this, you will have longer lasting engine parts, and I know we all love our 12 valves!

My whole system is coolant heated, except for the injector line heaters, which are a final step, and also a help in cold weather starts.

In tank coolant heat exchange> hose in hose> Coolant heated filter> 30 plate flat plate heat exchanger> injection line heaters.

I'm using greasecar's co-pilot computer monitoring and switchover setup, it's awesome. Monitors tank level, engine temp, oil temp, and times the purge cycle. I also have their high flow double 3 way solenoid, which is awesome.

Some choose to do an electric heat exchanger, such as an arctic fox heat exchanger. These are great especially for those running VO in cold weather.

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1997 2500 SCLB 290,XXX - 5-spd. 4x4, pump tuned with #10 plate, K&N CAI, no sil. ring, KDP tabbed, Autometer C2 Boost, Pyro, & Fuel gauges, BFG All-Terrains, HD Veggie Oil System, B100 & WVO burner! Working on the VGT Turbo conversion, soon to have Valair single disc...
http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...20the%20Dodge/