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I am not sure, but I think I may want to add a SMALL amp to my stereo
I have never messed around with amps before, but was told they will produce better, cleaner/safer power to the speakers and in addition to being louder it will also sound better. TRUE?
Here is my current setup:
Clarion DXZ585USB
21 watts RMS
53 peak x 4 channels
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Rear Door Speakers:
Polk Audio db651s
-Design 2-way
-Tweeter Design 3/4" Dome
-Tweeter Composition Silk/Polymer composite
-Woofer Composition Polymer/Mica composite
-Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber
-Sensitivity 92 dB at 1 volt
-Frequency Response 50 - 22k Hz
-MS Power Range (Watts) 6-55
-Peak Power Handling (Watts) 165
-Impedance (Ohms) 4
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Front Door Speakers:
Alpine SPR-69C; 6" x 9"
-RMS Power Range : 2-100 Watts
-Peak Power Handling: 300 Watts
-Hybrid layered-pulp woofer with rubber surround
-1" swiveling silk ring-dome tweeter
-Frequency response: 60-27,000 Hz
-Sensitivity: 89 dB
------------------------------------------
SO what do you amp experts suggest for an amp, wattage-wise?
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
In order to have a separate amplifier you have to have those door speakers wired to the actual amp.
Yes hooking a separate amp to your door speakers makes a world of difference in quality of sound and SPL (loudness).
What happens when you run too much bass boost, full volume, improper equalizer settings, etc etc. The audio signal wave, which is supposed to look like a heart line (Peak to Peak), will start to clip (bad) which is that signal flat linning at the top and bottom of the waves. Otherwise known as distortion.
In order to get the best sound out of your door speakers, amp or not, do not turn your radio up more than 2/3 - 4/5 the volumes max. For instance on my kenwood it can go to 36, I won't take it past 28-30 depending on the quality of the song.
The easiest way to put an amp through those door speakers not going the traditional run all new separate wiring for the door speakers. (PITA door jams lots of trim panels and door panels have to come off) You could take your head unit out and disconnect the speaker wires that are coming off that after market harness and splice and run those to your amp...
I would recommend if you go that route to place the amp either under the drivers seat,under rear seat, or behind the rear seat. Great amplifier brands are Sundown, PPI, USAmps, Audison, Rockford, etc. they all make great 2 and 4 channel amplifiers. With your setup i would recommend a 2 channel class A/B amplifier. The specs would be, 2x(150-250) watts @ 4ohms.
if you have any other questions lmk
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2004.5 Laramie 2500 CCSB- Smarty Tnt, AFE stg2, DTT Valvebody and billets, 5" FBD straight pipe, 7" TGC Lift, DT trackbar, box brace, pure swaybar, 37x22 Nitto Mud Grapplers, HIDs, Double Din kenwood and one big @ss 15" http://youtu.be/QZy9TtY776U
JL Audio all the way!! A 300.4v2 will cover all those door speakers with great sound. I have this amp powering my Focal door speakers and the sound amazing.
I was also under the impression that new speaker wires/cables DO NOT have to be ran to each speaker and that I can just tie into the speaker wires on the back of my radio deck.....correct?
Also, since I have four speakers that need power.....I would just need a four channel amp, correct?
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
I was also under the impression that new speaker wires/cables DO NOT have to be ran to each speaker and that I can just tie into the speaker wires on the back of my radio deck.....correct?
Also, since I have four speakers that need power.....I would just need a four channel amp, correct?
1. Correct, Just unsplice those wires from your clarion and splice and run all new wires to each speaker + and - to where ever you are placing the amp.
2. Yes, but i stated earlier that a 2 channel or 4 channel would work fine since you have just a LEFT and a RIGHT. The amp must be a class A/B amp. I stated some good brands to start with for amps. What is your price range and i can better help you.
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2004.5 Laramie 2500 CCSB- Smarty Tnt, AFE stg2, DTT Valvebody and billets, 5" FBD straight pipe, 7" TGC Lift, DT trackbar, box brace, pure swaybar, 37x22 Nitto Mud Grapplers, HIDs, Double Din kenwood and one big @ss 15" http://youtu.be/QZy9TtY776U
How much should I spend is a good question.....just a good quality amp, nothing junk, but nothing competition level! haha
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04 QC/LB, 4WD, 305/555 HO CTD, 6" Lift, 37x13.50 Toyo Open Country MT on 20x10 BMF SOTA 8, MBRP 5", GDP Power-Flo, GDP Air Boss, GDP Grid Delete, IceBox Intake, Air Dog 150, ATS Pulse Flow Manifold, BD Special, SMARTY SR POD, ARP Head Studs, T&C WILD Fuel Rail, T&C CPRV, II Dragon Fire 85% CP3, II 100HP Nozzles, Edge CTS Monitor, Built 48RE Trans
How much should I spend is a good question.....just a good quality amp, nothing junk, but nothing competition level! haha
$200-300 will get you quality that will sound great and last years. Wiring wise A/B class amps are less efficient so a 4ga wiring kit would be required if you want to keep that amp cool. i wish you were wanting a subwoofer amp because i have about 3 Im trying to get rid of
Welcome to Sundown << Im a big fan of their products and love them. If you want to go through them and buy the amp (SAX100.4) they have warranties and great customer service. you can find a SAX100.4 on ebay for the price range I said. These are the kind of guys if your having a problem you pick up the phone and they will walk you through it everytime.
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