DIY 98.5-2002 Tips and Tricks...post em here - NC - Page 4

cumminspower79 · 09-24-2006, 08:53 PM

I have one, its not a big deal but I did it to my truck. The A/C evaporator drain exits the firewall has no hose on it so the condesation just drips all over everything when its humid out, it gets under that insulation on the firewall. I just got a piece of blck hose and slipped it over the outlet, now it hangs down by the suspesion arms and drips straight down to the ground.

__________________
2002 Quad Cab Short Bed 4x4 4.10 gears auto, AFE intake, 4inch turbo back exhaust, Hypertech Power programmer, isspro fuel pres. pyro trans temp, boost gauges.

wyoranch · 11-19-2006, 10:49 AM

Heres one for ya, when changing out a VP44, after you take off the nut that holds the shaft through the timing gear, make sure you get off the lockwasher. If not, when you slip the VP44 out, the lockwasher will fall off into your timing cover. If this happens you will have to take off fan, shroud, timing cover, etc. This will take you most of the day to fix, from personal experience. I know it should be commoin sense to remove all washers, but you cannot see that washer when its on there so you dont know to remove it.

__________________
'93 xcab dually 4x4 Stock so far.

Gone but not forgotten: '01 qc sb 4x4 silver

**Diesel-Dan** · 11-20-2006, 09:37 AM

Good point! For thoes of us that have done 30 or so of them.....its like DUAH!!! But we have to remember the 1st timer........that would be a rough first pump install......ALSO remember to get the key way at the 12 O'clock position on the shaft before you try to remove the pump...or you might be doing the same thing with something about 1/10th the size of the washer......not sure if that has been brought up or not yet.....

__________________
Dan MacDonald
Diesel Performance Products
Head of Wnty/Trouble Shooting

Please don't PM me. I have a Vendor section just for CF users to post questions. I would like to keep everything public as it might help others with similar issues. Thanks for your understanding.

biohmmwv · 11-22-2006, 06:59 PM

I am new here so I don't know if this has been posted before. My tip is to take the stock fuel pump and relocate it next to the fuel tank. Doing so I have not seen my fuel pressure drop below 8psi. Thats 8psi on a hill, and my foot in it at 70 mph.

Turbo · 11-24-2006, 10:00 AM

Please do a search about things before posting. This is a VERY common mod and a must do for just about anyone. But I would suggest replacing the stock pump with a better on taht holds higher psi all the time and swapping over to 1/2" hose while you are at it. Doesnt cost much and there are kits where you can get everything you need to do it. Check it out, do a search.

__________________
Justin Harris 2000 2500 SLT Laramie QC LWB Straight Piped, BHAF, Gauges, Speakers and Amp
PICTURES

3*ton*of*fun · 11-30-2006, 02:58 PM

I don't know if this will help anyone, but it did me so here it goes:

Last week I had the pleasure of replacing my sending unit inside the fuel tank. The fuel gauge was very eratic and inaccurate. Anyways, I've lifted beds off trucks before with a couple of guys and it is no fun. I have an iron beam across the middle of the off my garage. I took the tailgate off and set that aside. I took 2 5,000lb. tie-downs and "X" them inside the bed. The point at which the tie downs cross is the approximate center of the bed (or close enough). I have a grizzly 660 atv with a warn 2500lb. winch. I hung a pulley from the iron beam, ran the winch rope up around the pulley and hooked on the "X". I had to "chalk" the front wheels of the atv to prevent it from sliding, but the winch had plenty of power to lift the bed up in the air, move the truck out of the way, make the sending unit switch, push the truck back under the bed and let it down. I've also seen the done with an engine crane and 2x4's under the bed rails. Obviously some common sense needs to be used when doing this, but it sure did save my back and instead of having to drop a full tank of diesel or try and round up 4 or 5 guys, myself and my dad did the switch pretty simple.

we had a harder time removing the rusted fuel lines from the sending unit, than doing the whole job. oh well, hope this helps some one else out.

later

Scott

__________________
1999 Cummins 24 valve, 4WD, LWB, 5-speed, 4.10 gears, 285/75/16 tires, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust, AFS Big Dog Fuel System, Rear Brake Upgrade, SS Step Bars, Dipricol Fuel Pressure Gauge, Keystone Cowl Hood, Rhino Bed Liner, AEM Brute Force Intake, Recon Clear Cab Lights, Tinted Windows, Ventvisors and Ram Tail Light Covers.
Coming Soon: Smarty Programmer

cumminspwrd02 · 12-20-2006, 05:29 PM

My tip is for the block heater plug. I got tired of it getting knocked around when hanging between the grill and bumper. I also hate digging for it when winter starts up. So, I took the cord and ran it down the AC condenser lines, zip tied it to the line, and let it hang out the large rectangular opening in the bumper. If you don't have fog lights you could use the smaller fog light hole too. Now when its not being used it can sit up on the hole out of the way.

__________________
Matt"Locomotive Superhero" 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Reg. Cab, Arrest Me Red SLT Laramie 24v Cummins AT w/ 4.10 LSD. Gauges, 4" Straight Pipe, Tonneau Cover, Tinted windows. IAMAW Local #498 "The Fightin' 498"

89ranger · 02-27-2007, 10:00 PM

Another option for the block heater plug would be for you to go out and buy a marine plug and mount that in your bumper. I forget the name of the plugs but they look like a trailer plug in but just will the normal prongs like and extension cord. Easy to plug in and then the prongs don't get all corroded cause they are overed

__________________
1999 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab.

Long Box, White, Auto, Straight Piped, Silencer ring is umm, uhh, Not sure but not on the Turbo.

***Purist*** · 04-02-2007, 07:19 PM

I installed a FASS system on my '99 this past weekend and had trouble removing the supply line from the fuel tank. I tried my fingers, but I couldn't get the lower tang with my big fingers. Then I tried needle nose pliers, both straight and 90 degree to no avail.

So I got in to my electrical stuff bag and pulled out a small plastic wire tie strap measuring 4" long x 1/8" wide. After tightening it, it squeezed both tabs great and the line came right off.

This after about two hours trying to get it disconnected with my fingers and assorted tools.

**Diesel-Dan** · 04-03-2007, 07:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Purist

I installed a FASS system on my '99 this past weekend and had trouble removing the supply line from the fuel tank. I tried my fingers, but I couldn't get the lower tang with my big fingers. Then I tried needle nose pliers, both straight and 90 degree to no avail.

So I got in to my electrical stuff bag and pulled out a small plastic wire tie strap measuring 4" long x 1/8" wide. After tightening it, it squeezed both tabs great and the line came right off.

This after about two hours trying to get it disconnected with my fingers and assorted tools.

I hear this one more and more....this is a really good tip and it will be added to our manual one day down the road........

__________________
Dan MacDonald
Diesel Performance Products
Head of Wnty/Trouble Shooting

Please don't PM me. I have a Vendor section just for CF users to post questions. I would like to keep everything public as it might help others with similar issues. Thanks for your understanding.

11-22-2006, 06:59 PM	#40 (permalink)
biohmmwv Newbie Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 14 biohmmwv's Truck Pics	Fuel Pump I am new here so I don't know if this has been posted before. My tip is to take the stock fuel pump and relocate it next to the fuel tank. Doing so I have not seen my fuel pressure drop below 8psi. Thats 8psi on a hill, and my foot in it at 70 mph.

11-30-2006, 02:58 PM	#42 (permalink)
3tonoffun Tech Specialist* Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: PA Posts: 51 *3tonoffun's Truck Pics**	Bed Removal Trick I don't know if this will help anyone, but it did me so here it goes: Last week I had the pleasure of replacing my sending unit inside the fuel tank. The fuel gauge was very eratic and inaccurate. Anyways, I've lifted beds off trucks before with a couple of guys and it is no fun. I have an iron beam across the middle of the off my garage. I took the tailgate off and set that aside. I took 2 5,000lb. tie-downs and "X" them inside the bed. The point at which the tie downs cross is the approximate center of the bed (or close enough). I have a grizzly 660 atv with a warn 2500lb. winch. I hung a pulley from the iron beam, ran the winch rope up around the pulley and hooked on the "X". I had to "chalk" the front wheels of the atv to prevent it from sliding, but the winch had plenty of power to lift the bed up in the air, move the truck out of the way, make the sending unit switch, push the truck back under the bed and let it down. I've also seen the done with an engine crane and 2x4's under the bed rails. Obviously some common sense needs to be used when doing this, but it sure did save my back and instead of having to drop a full tank of diesel or try and round up 4 or 5 guys, myself and my dad did the switch pretty simple. we had a harder time removing the rusted fuel lines from the sending unit, than doing the whole job. oh well, hope this helps some one else out. later Scott __________________ 1999 Cummins 24 valve, 4WD, LWB, 5-speed, 4.10 gears, 285/75/16 tires, 4" Turbo Back Exhaust, AFS Big Dog Fuel System, Rear Brake Upgrade, SS Step Bars, Dipricol Fuel Pressure Gauge, Keystone Cowl Hood, Rhino Bed Liner, AEM Brute Force Intake, Recon Clear Cab Lights, Tinted Windows, Ventvisors and Ram Tail Light Covers. Coming Soon: Smarty Programmer

04-02-2007, 07:19 PM	#45 (permalink)
*Purist* Newbie Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Tucson, Arizona Posts: 25 Purist's Truck Pics	Fuel Tank Supply Line Disconnect to install FASS I installed a FASS system on my '99 this past weekend and had trouble removing the supply line from the fuel tank. I tried my fingers, but I couldn't get the lower tang with my big fingers. Then I tried needle nose pliers, both straight and 90 degree to no avail. So I got in to my electrical stuff bag and pulled out a small plastic wire tie strap measuring 4" long x 1/8" wide. After tightening it, it squeezed both tabs great and the line came right off. This after about two hours trying to get it disconnected with my fingers and assorted tools.

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09-24-2006, 08:53 PM	#37 (permalink)
cumminspower79 Newbie Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Imperial Valley Posts: 19 cumminspower79's Truck Pics	I have one, its not a big deal but I did it to my truck. The A/C evaporator drain exits the firewall has no hose on it so the condesation just drips all over everything when its humid out, it gets under that insulation on the firewall. I just got a piece of blck hose and slipped it over the outlet, now it hangs down by the suspesion arms and drips straight down to the ground. __________________ 2002 Quad Cab Short Bed 4x4 4.10 gears auto, AFE intake, 4inch turbo back exhaust, Hypertech Power programmer, isspro fuel pres. pyro trans temp, boost gauges.

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11-19-2006, 10:49 AM	#38 (permalink)
wyoranch Cummins Nut Join Date: Aug 2006 Posts: 430 wyoranch's Truck Pics	Heres one for ya, when changing out a VP44, after you take off the nut that holds the shaft through the timing gear, make sure you get off the lockwasher. If not, when you slip the VP44 out, the lockwasher will fall off into your timing cover. If this happens you will have to take off fan, shroud, timing cover, etc. This will take you most of the day to fix, from personal experience. I know it should be commoin sense to remove all washers, but you cannot see that washer when its on there so you dont know to remove it. __________________ '93 xcab dually 4x4 Stock so far. Gone but not forgotten: '01 qc sb 4x4 silver

11-20-2006, 09:37 AM	#39 (permalink)
Diesel-Dan Flip-Flop Extreme Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Marthasville, MO Posts: 902 Diesel-Dan's Truck Pics	Good point! For thoes of us that have done 30 or so of them.....its like DUAH!!! But we have to remember the 1st timer........that would be a rough first pump install......ALSO remember to get the key way at the 12 O'clock position on the shaft before you try to remove the pump...or you might be doing the same thing with something about 1/10th the size of the washer......not sure if that has been brought up or not yet..... __________________ Dan MacDonald Diesel Performance Products Head of Wnty/Trouble Shooting Please don't PM me. I have a Vendor section just for CF users to post questions. I would like to keep everything public as it might help others with similar issues. Thanks for your understanding.

11-24-2006, 10:00 AM	#41 (permalink)
Turbo Cummins Fan Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: North Texas Posts: 94 Turbo's Truck Pics	Please do a search about things before posting. This is a VERY common mod and a must do for just about anyone. But I would suggest replacing the stock pump with a better on taht holds higher psi all the time and swapping over to 1/2" hose while you are at it. Doesnt cost much and there are kits where you can get everything you need to do it. Check it out, do a search. __________________ Justin Harris 2000 2500 SLT Laramie QC LWB Straight Piped, BHAF, Gauges, Speakers and Amp PICTURES

12-20-2006, 05:29 PM	#43 (permalink)
cumminspwrd02 Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Valparaiso, Indiana Posts: 218 cumminspwrd02's Truck Pics	My tip is for the block heater plug. I got tired of it getting knocked around when hanging between the grill and bumper. I also hate digging for it when winter starts up. So, I took the cord and ran it down the AC condenser lines, zip tied it to the line, and let it hang out the large rectangular opening in the bumper. If you don't have fog lights you could use the smaller fog light hole too. Now when its not being used it can sit up on the hole out of the way. __________________ Matt"Locomotive Superhero" 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 4x4 Reg. Cab, Arrest Me Red SLT Laramie 24v Cummins AT w/ 4.10 LSD. Gauges, 4" Straight Pipe, Tonneau Cover, Tinted windows. IAMAW Local #498 "The Fightin' 498"

02-27-2007, 10:00 PM	#44 (permalink)
89ranger Newbie Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Montana Posts: 8 89ranger's Truck Pics	Another option for the block heater plug would be for you to go out and buy a marine plug and mount that in your bumper. I forget the name of the plugs but they look like a trailer plug in but just will the normal prongs like and extension cord. Easy to plug in and then the prongs don't get all corroded cause they are overed __________________ 1999 Dodge 2500 Quad Cab. Long Box, White, Auto, Straight Piped, Silencer ring is umm, uhh, Not sure but not on the Turbo.