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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > Technical Articles - Writeups - Guides Section > 98.5-02 Tech Articles > 98.5-02 Technical & Diagnostics
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98.5-02 Technical & Diagnostics What is it, what does it do... Pretty much the learning center for the 98.5-2002 Dodge Diesel's.

 


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Old 08-27-2006, 08:57 PM   #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man
CHANGING OIL FILTERS WITHOUT A MESS
Most people here know how to change oil on a vehicle. So I'm not going into to that at all. But when it comes time to spin the oil filter off it can be a mess. I know from experience that the oil filter is going to be hot and oilly. Which is going to make it diffucult to manuver out and hang on to it long enough to get it out...

Next time you change your filter crack it loose. Then grab a large zip-loc bag or two plastic grocery bag and place it over the filter. Now spin it off. Don't let go of the filter yet. Now the plastic bag will keep the oil from spilling all over your nice truck.

Now don't forget to oil up your new FLEETGUARD and spin it on!

WARNING! - When priming you new filter remember that anything that gets inside the center hole will be pumped into the engine. Don't let any debris fall in this hole it will cause serious engine damage. Plugged oil cooling jets etc.

Thats the best tip yet! I worked at chrysler and have changed many cummins oil filters and everyone I was wishin there was a way not to spill the oil all over peoples rigs. But now I know.... But I dont work there ne more. lol
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Old 08-28-2006, 08:43 AM   #26 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99cummins
Thats the best tip yet! I worked at chrysler and have changed many cummins oil filters and everyone I was wishin there was a way not to spill the oil all over peoples rigs. But now I know.... But I dont work there ne more. lol
I've got a web page with pics if you like to take a peek...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man/oil_change.htm
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Old 08-28-2006, 06:48 PM   #27 (permalink)
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Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes.

1. Block front wheels
2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands
3. Remove tire or tires
4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side.
5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck.

Both drums should be loose.
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Old 08-28-2006, 07:36 PM   #28 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dctoner
Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes.

1. Block front wheels
2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands
3. Remove tire or tires
4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side.
5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck.

Both drums should be loose.

That is a good one.......wish i knew that before i lost half my hearing!
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Old 09-11-2006, 09:58 PM   #29 (permalink)
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so nobody has any hints or tricks eng wise do they?
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:02 PM   #30 (permalink)
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Add a longer hose to drain the fuel filter so you dont leak the fuel all over your chassis. You can always tuck the extra length into one of the holes in the frame rail untill you need it. YOu can even use a catch can/pan now.
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Old 09-13-2006, 03:09 PM   #31 (permalink)
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I know that this question comes from my lack of tech. knowledge but what is the importance of putting them back in the same spot. Are they not all made the same size, lenghts. Valves i could see, tappets too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bent valves
The shop manual warns to keep track of rockers and push rods so they can be placed back in the same spot they came from.
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:29 PM   #32 (permalink)
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Due to wear you want them to go back where they came from. AS things wear everything kind-of becomes a custom fit. Although I have put rockers and pushrods in different spots before and even into a totally different motor without any problems.
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Old 09-13-2006, 09:57 PM   #33 (permalink)
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I agree with Justin. I believe the reason to not mix up the push rods and tappets is because of wear. When all the parts are new, they can go anywhere. As mileage accumulates the push rod ends and tappets will wear in together to form a unique low friction fit. If you were to swap a push rod it will no longer have the same fit and will have to wear in again. I am guessing this will cause more wear and the need to readjust the valve clearance. So instead of adjusting the valve lash at 100K-mile intervals it may be down to 90K miles.
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Old 09-20-2006, 01:10 AM   #34 (permalink)
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What is the advantage of the chevy parts in the rear drums?
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Old 09-20-2006, 07:23 PM   #35 (permalink)
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The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums.
Tom
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:10 PM   #36 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MnTom
The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums.
Tom

Unless you drive on a lot of gravel......the rear end gets lock up happy! haha......Really not that bad.....well worth the $20......
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