DIY 98.5-2002 Tips and Tricks...post em here - NC - Page 3

BSouth · 08-27-2006, 05:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mopar1973Man

CHANGING OIL FILTERS WITHOUT A MESS

Most people here know how to change oil on a vehicle. So I'm not going into to that at all. But when it comes time to spin the oil filter off it can be a mess. I know from experience that the oil filter is going to be hot and oilly. Which is going to make it diffucult to manuver out and hang on to it long enough to get it out...

Next time you change your filter crack it loose. Then grab a large zip-loc bag or two plastic grocery bag and place it over the filter. Now spin it off. Don't let go of the filter yet. Now the plastic bag will keep the oil from spilling all over your nice truck.

Now don't forget to oil up your new FLEETGUARD and spin it on!

WARNING!

- When priming you new filter remember that anything that gets inside the center hole will be pumped into the engine. Don't let any debris fall in this hole it will cause serious engine damage. Plugged oil cooling jets etc.

Thats the best tip yet! I worked at chrysler and have changed many cummins oil filters and everyone I was wishin there was a way not to spill the oil all over peoples rigs. But now I know.... But I dont work there ne more. lol

__________________
05 3500 Yellow 6 speed, Mega cab dually fenders, Rumble Bee Scoop, Edge Juice w/ A2, Striker 2, Valair 3600 DD, 5" Silverline exhaust, Icebox with torque tube, Rokkteck, Quad Rail Gauge, Brite Box w/ Fogzilla

***Mopar1973Man*** · 08-28-2006, 05:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 99cummins

Thats the best tip yet! I worked at chrysler and have changed many cummins oil filters and everyone I was wishin there was a way not to spill the oil all over peoples rigs. But now I know.... But I dont work there ne more. lol

I've got a web page with pics if you like to take a peek...
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man/oil_change.htm

__________________

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins

dctoner · 08-28-2006, 03:48 PM

Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes.

1. Block front wheels
2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands
3. Remove tire or tires
4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side.
5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck.

Both drums should be loose.

__________________
1995, 2500, CC, 5 Speed,
LWB, 4x4, 3.55 LSD, Jacobs Exhaust Brake,
Pyro and boost gauges, 235,000

**Diesel-Dan** · 08-28-2006, 04:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dctoner

Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes.

1. Block front wheels
2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands
3. Remove tire or tires
4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side.
5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck.

Both drums should be loose.

That is a good one.......wish i knew that before i lost half my hearing!

__________________
Dan MacDonald
www.FASSRide.com

2001 2500, 4x4, Con OFEed, TBK, AFE Stage II kit W/ prefilter and 4" cowl mod. , FASS 150/150, Mach 2's, Drag Comp,

Currently running on B-100
'02 Jetta TDI 5 Speed "Mini Me" 45-50 MPG

M_R_M · 09-11-2006, 06:58 PM

so nobody has any hints or tricks eng wise do they?

__________________
2001 cummins 2500 ext cab swb 4x4 K&n air filter, straight pipe, edge/juice attiude, walbro392 pump, big line kit, vp-44 big line kit, 35mic pre filter, level kit.

Turbo · 09-11-2006, 07:02 PM

Add a longer hose to drain the fuel filter so you dont leak the fuel all over your chassis. You can always tuck the extra length into one of the holes in the frame rail untill you need it. YOu can even use a catch can/pan now.

__________________
Justin Harris
Justin Tyme Autocraft
2000 2500 SLT Laramie Quad LWB - PICS

FireMed · 09-13-2006, 12:09 PM

I know that this question comes from my lack of tech. knowledge but what is the importance of putting them back in the same spot. Are they not all made the same size, lenghts. Valves i could see, tappets too.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bent valves

The shop manual warns to keep track of rockers and push rods so they can be placed back in the same spot they came from.

__________________
"01" red with red tint, I'd say stock

Turbo · 09-13-2006, 06:29 PM

Due to wear you want them to go back where they came from. AS things wear everything kind-of becomes a custom fit. Although I have put rockers and pushrods in different spots before and even into a totally different motor without any problems.

__________________
Justin Harris
Justin Tyme Autocraft
2000 2500 SLT Laramie Quad LWB - PICS

bent valves · 09-13-2006, 06:57 PM

I agree with Justin. I believe the reason to not mix up the push rods and tappets is because of wear. When all the parts are new, they can go anywhere. As mileage accumulates the push rod ends and tappets will wear in together to form a unique low friction fit. If you were to swap a push rod it will no longer have the same fit and will have to wear in again. I am guessing this will cause more wear and the need to readjust the valve clearance. So instead of adjusting the valve lash at 100K-mile intervals it may be down to 90K miles.

__________________
Dave
1998 24Valve, BD dual turbo, Mach 4, Smarty, APB, ARP studs, Rickson 19.5s, DPP 4" SS, CON OFE.

fight4yourrights · 09-19-2006, 10:10 PM

What is the advantage of the chevy parts in the rear drums?

__________________
2001 Ram 2500 CTD, 6" lift, 37x13.50x17" ProComp Xtreme Terrain AT's on MT Classic II, Edge EZ, Boost, FP & EGT gauges. Cummins Campaign pump, Vulcan big line kit & Draw Straw II

***Tom05*** · 09-20-2006, 04:23 PM

The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums.
Tom

__________________
www.midwestdieselconnection.com

**Diesel-Dan** · 09-20-2006, 05:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MnTom

The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums.
Tom

Unless you drive on a lot of gravel......the rear end gets lock up happy! haha......Really not that bad.....well worth the $20......

__________________
Dan MacDonald
www.FASSRide.com

2001 2500, 4x4, Con OFEed, TBK, AFE Stage II kit W/ prefilter and 4" cowl mod. , FASS 150/150, Mach 2's, Drag Comp,

Currently running on B-100
'02 Jetta TDI 5 Speed "Mini Me" 45-50 MPG

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08-28-2006, 03:48 PM	#27 (permalink)
dctoner Cummins Fan Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: TF, Idaho Posts: 44 dctoner's Truck Pics	Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes. 1. Block front wheels 2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands 3. Remove tire or tires 4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side. 5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck. Both drums should be loose. __________________ 1995, 2500, CC, 5 Speed, LWB, 4x4, 3.55 LSD, Jacobs Exhaust Brake, Pyro and boost gauges, 235,000

09-11-2006, 06:58 PM	#29 (permalink)
M_R_M Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Memphis,tn Posts: 134 M_R_M's Truck Pics	so nobody has any hints or tricks eng wise do they? __________________ 2001 cummins 2500 ext cab swb 4x4 K&n air filter, straight pipe, edge/juice attiude, walbro392 pump, big line kit, vp-44 big line kit, 35mic pre filter, level kit.

09-11-2006, 07:02 PM	#30 (permalink)
Turbo Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: North Texas Posts: 101 Turbo's Truck Pics	Add a longer hose to drain the fuel filter so you dont leak the fuel all over your chassis. You can always tuck the extra length into one of the holes in the frame rail untill you need it. YOu can even use a catch can/pan now. __________________ Justin Harris Justin Tyme Autocraft 2000 2500 SLT Laramie Quad LWB - PICS

09-13-2006, 06:29 PM	#32 (permalink)
Turbo Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: North Texas Posts: 101 Turbo's Truck Pics	Due to wear you want them to go back where they came from. AS things wear everything kind-of becomes a custom fit. Although I have put rockers and pushrods in different spots before and even into a totally different motor without any problems. __________________ Justin Harris Justin Tyme Autocraft 2000 2500 SLT Laramie Quad LWB - PICS

09-13-2006, 06:57 PM	#33 (permalink)
bent valves Cummins Fan Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: New England Posts: 52 bent valves's Truck Pics	I agree with Justin. I believe the reason to not mix up the push rods and tappets is because of wear. When all the parts are new, they can go anywhere. As mileage accumulates the push rod ends and tappets will wear in together to form a unique low friction fit. If you were to swap a push rod it will no longer have the same fit and will have to wear in again. I am guessing this will cause more wear and the need to readjust the valve clearance. So instead of adjusting the valve lash at 100K-mile intervals it may be down to 90K miles. __________________ Dave 1998 24Valve, BD dual turbo, Mach 4, Smarty, APB, ARP studs, Rickson 19.5s, DPP 4" SS, CON OFE.

09-19-2006, 10:10 PM	#34 (permalink)
fight4yourrights Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: York, PA Posts: 129 fight4yourrights's Truck Pics	What is the advantage of the chevy parts in the rear drums? __________________ 2001 Ram 2500 CTD, 6" lift, 37x13.50x17" ProComp Xtreme Terrain AT's on MT Classic II, Edge EZ, Boost, FP & EGT gauges. Cummins Campaign pump, Vulcan big line kit & Draw Straw II

09-20-2006, 04:23 PM	#35 (permalink)
*Tom05* Diesel Head Join Date: Dec 2005 Posts: 4,442 Tom05's Truck Pics	The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums. Tom __________________ www.midwestdieselconnection.com