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| 98.5-02 Technical & Diagnostics What is it, what does it do... Pretty much the learning center for the 98.5-2002 Dodge Diesel's. |
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#25 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Head
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Joplin MO
Posts: 2,419
Thanks: 41
Thanked 24 Times in 24 Posts
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Quote:
Thats the best tip yet! I worked at chrysler and have changed many cummins oil filters and everyone I was wishin there was a way not to spill the oil all over peoples rigs. But now I know.... But I dont work there ne more. lol
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05 3500 Yellow 6 speed,Mega cab dually fenders,Rumble Bee Scoop,Edge Juice w/A2,Edge EZ,Smarty,CFM+,ATS Exhaust Mani,Silver 64,90's,Airdog 150,Valair 3600 DD,5" Silverline exhaust,8" tip,Icebox with torque tube,Quad Rail Gauge,Mag-Hytecs,Lorenz Level, 22.5's |
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#26 (permalink) | |
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www.Mopar1973Man.com
![]() Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: New Meadows, Idaho
Posts: 11,042
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Quote:
http://www.frontiernet.net/~mopar1973man/oil_change.htm
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Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins For Technical Assistance With Your 24V 2nd Generation Cummins - Click Here! Or Search CF.Com for an Answer Remember to smack the THANKS! button for those that helped you or you think that post is helpful to others!
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#27 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: TF, Idaho
Posts: 44
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Don't forget the the rear drum removal trick for those of us with out rear disc brakes. 1. Block front wheels 2. Jack up both sides of rear axle and secure with jack stands 3. Remove tire or tires 4. thread two lug nuts at least half way on. (if removing both drums make sure you have two lugs on each side. 5. start tuck, put in gear, hit the brakes, put in reverse, hit brakes, put in N or Park, and shut down the truck. Both drums should be loose.
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1995, 2500, CC, 5 Speed, LWB, 4x4, 3.55 LSD, Jacobs Exhaust Brake, Pyro and boost gauges, 235,000 |
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#28 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Head
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 1,173
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Quote:
That is a good one.......wish i knew that before i lost half my hearing!
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Dan MacDonald 2001 Dodge/2002 TDI Jetta Both on B-100 |
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#29 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Memphis,tn
Posts: 134
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so nobody has any hints or tricks eng wise do they?
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2001 cummins 2500 ext cab swb 4x4 K&n air filter, straight pipe, edge/juice attiude, walbro392 pump, big line kit, vp-44 big line kit, 35mic pre filter, level kit. |
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#30 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Texas
Posts: 121
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Add a longer hose to drain the fuel filter so you dont leak the fuel all over your chassis. You can always tuck the extra length into one of the holes in the frame rail untill you need it. YOu can even use a catch can/pan now.
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#31 (permalink) | |
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Cummins Nut
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Southeast IN
Posts: 346
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I know that this question comes from my lack of tech. knowledge but what is the importance of putting them back in the same spot. Are they not all made the same size, lenghts. Valves i could see, tappets too. Quote:
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"01" red with red tint, I'd say not quite stock |
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#32 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: North Texas
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Due to wear you want them to go back where they came from. AS things wear everything kind-of becomes a custom fit. Although I have put rockers and pushrods in different spots before and even into a totally different motor without any problems.
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#33 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fan
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: New England
Posts: 52
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I agree with Justin. I believe the reason to not mix up the push rods and tappets is because of wear. When all the parts are new, they can go anywhere. As mileage accumulates the push rod ends and tappets will wear in together to form a unique low friction fit. If you were to swap a push rod it will no longer have the same fit and will have to wear in again. I am guessing this will cause more wear and the need to readjust the valve clearance. So instead of adjusting the valve lash at 100K-mile intervals it may be down to 90K miles.
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Dave 1998 24Valve, BD dual turbo, Mach 4, Smarty, APB, ARP studs, Rickson 19.5s, DPP 4" SS, CON OFE. |
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#34 (permalink) |
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Cummins Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Charlotte, NC
Posts: 149
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What is the advantage of the chevy parts in the rear drums?
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2008 Piece of Crapola. Gets 2,000 miles per turbo. Does 23 mph at full throttle. Why did I trade in my 2001?
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#35 (permalink) |
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Diesel Head
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The only Chevy parts in the rear drums is just the wheel cylinders. They are a direct bolt in, no modification needed. They are a larger cylinder that allows more braking capacity in the rear wheels. Yes, it does work quite well. I did it and would recommend it to anyone that has a 2500 with drums. Tom
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#36 (permalink) | |
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Diesel Head
![]() Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Roanoke, TX
Posts: 1,173
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Quote:
Unless you drive on a lot of gravel......the rear end gets lock up happy! haha......Really not that bad.....well worth the $20......
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Dan MacDonald 2001 Dodge/2002 TDI Jetta Both on B-100 |
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