Starter Contact/Plunger Replacement on a 2nd Gen.

[lvin4jc]

My '01 kept blowing the "Starter Solenoid" fuse more and more often until it wouldn't start at all. I did some reading on here and found that it was probably the starter contacts since they are a known problem. So I ordered the starter rebuild kit from Geno's and I thought i'd share the details of the install with you in case you need to do it yourself someday.

What you will need;
8mm Wrench
10mm Socket or ratcheting wrench (must be 12pt)
15mm Wrench
17mm Wrench
Phillips Head Screwdriver


The starter is located on the rear driver's side of the engine block.



First, disconnect the battery cables.
Then remove the red cable from the starter with the 15mm wrench. Second, remove the starter wire with the 8mm wrench.
Now you are ready to take the starter off by removing the three 10mm bolts holding it on. Two of them are on the bottom and will be easy to remove. The third one, however, is on top and will be nearly impossible to access from under the truck. From under the hood you can climb on top of the engine and barely reach the top bolt. This is where the ratcheting 12pt 10mm tool comes in because with a regular wrench it could take quite a while. I recommend removing this top bolt first because if you remove the bottom two bolts first, the weight of the starter will be resting on the top bolt alone making it harder to remove.

Now the starter is free to come loose.



On the back side of the starter, you will find three phillips screws holding the cover for the plunger, remove these screws. There is also a blue wire connecting the two parts of the starter, the 17mm nut on this wire will need to be removed as well.

Once the plunger cover is removed and the plunger is pulled out by hand (BE CAREFUL NOT TO LOOSE THE SPRING OR SMALL BALL AS THESE WILL NEED TO BE REUSED). Your starter should look something like this;



You can see from the above picture that the copper contact on the left was the culprit in my case, it was worn quite badly.

Now that you can access the inside portion of the starter, loosen the two remaining 17mm nuts on either contact and take note of the way the pieces go together. Remove the contacts and insert the new ones, taking care that they are flat against the back. When you tighten the nut on the long bolt, it will seat onto the contact (this will make sense once you have it on the bench and open).

Here is a picture of my worn contacts next to the new ones;



Once you've replaced the contacts, put the old spring on the new plunger and replace it, making sure that the ball at the bottom stayed in there or that you put it back in before the plunger. Here is a picture of the new parts installed (the plunger should fit down lower in the hole, but was pulled up so that you could see everything in the picture);



After that, just replace the plunger cover, replace the blue wire connecting the two parts of the starter. Then bolt the starter back up to the engine and reconnect the red wire and the small starter wire. Reconnect your battery cables and the truck should start right up.

I hope this helps someone who wouldn't normally tackle the task reconsider, it really isn't hard.

Good luck and happy wrenching

-Joe-

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2001 4X4 Auto SLT Laramie - DANA 60/DANA 70, 3.55's - Isspro Gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost, Trans. Temp. - HBS Leveling Kit - Straight Pipe - Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 - Quad Mileage Max (For Sale $100) - 285/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's

[BBRam]

Great Article Joe, Thank You!

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03-3500, DRW, QC, 4x4, DTT Trans, Mag-Hytec, R700 BD Twins, BD IC Boots, BD Billet Flexplate, Lockup Switch, SMARTY TNT-R BETA/TS MP-8, Eliminator Fuel System, Floor It Stage 3 CP3 & Rail Cap, BIG Stix's by FTE, ARP Head Stud's, Springs, Fluidampr, ATS ARC-FLOW, AFE, Boost, Drive Pressure, Pyro, Fuel Pressure, Tran's Temp, Rail Pressure Gauge, GDP Ladder Bars, GrandRock 7" Miters. Old #'s (R/T .021, 60' 1.76, 1/4 ET 13.14 @ 100.45 mph)

[Graphic Man]

i did the same thing to my starter about 4 months ago,.....works better then new now

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2001 4X4 Q-cab Sport black, full billet DTT trans, billet F-plate Mach 7's, B1-B2 twins, Blue Chip Special X VP, Adrenaline, studded & O-ringed, BD-RAD,Flex-A-Lite electric fans, Autometer Gages, Egt, Boost,Fuel, Oil &,drive pressure, trans temp, RASP, Big line kit, Track bars 2" leveling kit, 271 T-case, DSS, 3rd gen trac bar 623 HP 1175tq with old set-up

[lvin4jc]

Originally Posted by BBRam

Great Article Joe, Thank You!

No problem, hopefully it'll make the job easier for someone else.

Originally Posted by Graphic Man

i did the same thing to my starter about 4 months ago,.....works better then new now

Oh yeah, it's amazing now!

__________________

2001 4X4 Auto SLT Laramie - DANA 60/DANA 70, 3.55's - Isspro Gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost, Trans. Temp. - HBS Leveling Kit - Straight Pipe - Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 - Quad Mileage Max (For Sale $100) - 285/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's

[calebs]

I just used this thread to help me put on my starter rebuild kit today. Works great. Thanks for the write-up

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98.5 2500 QC/SB 4x4 5SP 4:10s, FASS 95 HPFP, DiPricol OPTIX FP/Boost/EGT, AFE STAGE I PRO DRY, EDGE COMP, 150HP FBD Sticks, .093 Tubes, 5" TB to Single 7" MITRE

SPRING BUILD UP: SBC 3600 DD, FASS 150, 220HP Sticks, 110# Hamilton Valve Springs & Hamilton Billet Push rods, TRACK BARS
Next on the list: Studs and Air to support it

[lvin4jc]

Originally Posted by calebs

I just used this thread to help me put on my starter rebuild kit today. Works great. Thanks for the write-up

Anytime, this forum has given me so much, it's good to give back

__________________

2001 4X4 Auto SLT Laramie - DANA 60/DANA 70, 3.55's - Isspro Gauges, FP, Pyro, Boost, Trans. Temp. - HBS Leveling Kit - Straight Pipe - Amsoil Nanofiber 4510 - Quad Mileage Max (For Sale $100) - 285/75/16 Firestone Destination M/T's