Front wheel bearing removal the easy way - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum
98.5-02 Repairs/Replacements This section is for helping you know what to do when something breaks. How to replace things, repair them, etc...

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post #1 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 01:56 PM Thread Starter
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Front wheel bearing removal the easy way

I don't know if this has been mentioned here yet but it's worth covering again. I am doing ball joints on my '99 and this truck has the rotors behind the hub. Not easy to remove. Unless you use this trick: back the four hub bolts out .5 inch, use a deep 1/2 drive 9/16 with a 1" extension, place the socket and extension on a hub bolt and start the truck and crank the wheel. The hub, rotor and everything falls right out. You may have to move from front to back once or twice but it sure beats breaking the old rotor off with a sledge hammer.(Don't ask me how I know)


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post #2 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 03:13 PM
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timing is of the essence! I'll be replacing that assembly tomorrow night!

thanks DieselDave!

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post #3 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 03:34 PM Thread Starter
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Headhunter your truck may have the rotors on the outside of the hub assembly, which is a little easier. However this trick worked like a charm. Good luck.

1999 2500 TST Competition, 275 Injectors. Mcloed Twin Disc, 3.54 LS. Silencer ring MIA, Jake since new, boost and pyro on the A pillar.
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post #4 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 03:37 PM
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ya know now that I think about it.... I think you are right!.... maybe... hell I don't remember> I'll let ya know after I'm done!.... if the trick won't work... we've got a sledge hammer or 2, a lil guy, and a man killer!

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post #5 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 08:07 PM
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You mean like this?
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Bill
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post #6 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 08:16 PM Thread Starter
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Yeah that should do it. I used a deep socket and 1" extension, about half the length of that setup, but whatever will fit seems to do it. I figured this wasn't new but is so valuable I didn't want to keep it a secret if it wasn't common knowledge. My socket hit on the casting on the end of the axle. This really takes the pain out of this job. I just wish that there was an easier way to do the ball joints. One side done, the other one I'll do tomorrow!

1999 2500 TST Competition, 275 Injectors. Mcloed Twin Disc, 3.54 LS. Silencer ring MIA, Jake since new, boost and pyro on the A pillar.
6 Speed Synchro-Muncher (NV5600) :fist:

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post #7 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-19-2006, 09:44 PM
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Excellent info Dave ..thanks for sharing :thumbsup
post #8 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-24-2006, 06:53 PM
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Man this would have been helpful a while back!!!!! took me 3 hours to beat my passanger side off, believe me it was a pain!!! 200,000 miles and the hub assembly/rotors had never been off the truck. Owners before me sucked!

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post #9 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-25-2006, 08:25 AM
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got 'er done in about an hour and a half.... had to go and get a 3/4 inch socket set from a buddy! other than that it was painless!

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post #10 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-29-2006, 08:19 AM
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Anyone Know What Size The Axle Nut Is ? So I Don't Have To Take All My Big Sockets Home From Work

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post #11 of 36 (permalink) Old 04-30-2006, 04:50 PM
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Thank's for the imfo. We tangled with one this weekend. The socket and ext. worked awsome. We used a slightly larger socket and a 1" ext. so we were able to push against the axle housing instead of the brackets, but the pic. helped get the idea across.THANK'S AGAIN!!!

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post #12 of 36 (permalink) Old 05-03-2006, 03:46 PM
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1 and three quarter inch

'01 ETH/MONSTER VP. 835/1698 and a valve seat visited cyl 4...build in progress.
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