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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > Technical Articles - Writeups - Guides Section > 98.5-02 Tech Articles > 98.5-02 Repairs/Replacements
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98.5-02 Repairs/Replacements This section is for helping you know what to do when something breaks. How to replace things, repair them, etc...

 
       


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Old 05-03-2006, 12:50 PM   #13 (permalink)
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did my right front friday...took a bit, but a HUGE chisel and a sledge to break the thing loose, and the new dropped in like butta...$360 later...but it saved me a hundred doing it myself, and 40 to get it from the driveline shop, versus the dealer (they got it from the dealer too) lol
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:02 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I knew I should have paid more attention when I researched the bearings going out on here!!!! Beat mine out with a chisel and a BFH even tried heating a little. When I go to change the gears though, this will help, and when I change the drivers bearing.
I got mine for $280 from my local dodge $tealer though.
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Old 08-28-2006, 09:06 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I had to use a chisel when I changed gears, couldnt break the bearings loose with the socket method, just bent a couple brackets on the axle.
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Old 08-28-2006, 09:11 PM   #16 (permalink)
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Don't forget the Anti-seize when you put it back together. Makes it a snap the next time you have to change rotors.
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Old 08-29-2006, 08:51 PM   #17 (permalink)
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Sorry you bent the brackets. For anyone else trying this, it is important to note that you have to push off of the U shaped forging that the upper and lower ball joints attach to. This will prevent bending, and will make this trick more successful.
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Old 08-31-2006, 03:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I just had a shop here in Indy do my entire front end yesterday. ALL NEW wheel bearings rotors upper and lower ball joints EVERY LINK that is up there. and steering stabalizer. over 3,500 bucks. Thank GOD for extended warranties. That is all I can say. Jason
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:46 AM   #19 (permalink)
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Yeah, what really sucked is that my buddy's 97, the bearings dropped right out when we changed the ball joints. and it's got almost 200K on it!!! All I did was smack the bolts with a hammer like twice and they fell on the floor. Made me so mad!!!!!
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Old 10-19-2006, 06:18 AM   #20 (permalink)
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Bringing this back up...I recently read where doing this with the power steering has cause issues with alignments...something is getting bent.

FWIW,
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Old 10-24-2006, 04:57 PM   #21 (permalink)
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to bad i didn't see this post befor.
i'm replacing axle seals, rotors, wheel bearings right now.

what a pain in the butt!
also insted of buying the whol hub assemble i pressed the hub apart to just replace the bearings. i should have just replaced the whole hubs
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Old 10-24-2006, 05:43 PM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bow2no1 View Post
to bad i didn't see this post befor.
i'm replacing axle seals, rotors, wheel bearings right now.

what a pain in the butt!
also insted of buying the whol hub assemble i pressed the hub apart to just replace the bearings. i should have just replaced the whole hubs
Can you explain how you replace both the race and the bearing when the race is a machined part of the hub?

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Old 10-24-2006, 07:40 PM   #23 (permalink)
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the race???

here's the hub assembly i pressed to apart it get the bearing off.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 50_2.jpg (6.2 KB, 103 views)
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:54 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Umm, I have had several of those apart...I'm not new at this...

Bearings and races are matched...putting a new bearing on a used race is a sure way to get premature bearing failure...and since the race is a machined surface within the assembly that isn't replaced without getting a new assembly, I can only assume you run a new bearing on an old race surface...

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