Front Disk Brake Pad Replacement's

Front Disk Brake Pad Replacement's
By:

Work Performed On : 2002 CTD

Estimated time of Completion : 2 Hrs

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Last edited by Andy : 03-24-2007 at 11:50 AM.

[illflem]

I'm glad the fellow that wrote this said to open the bleed screw while compressing the cylinder.
Many people don't and end up ruining an ABS unit or master cylinder.
Not only are the units not designed for back pressure you will force some of the dirtiest fluid in the system back into critical parts by forcing the cylinder down.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

[BigBlue]

I've been changing brakes pads since I was 6 (I'm almost 21 now) and I've never once opened the bleeder screw to compress the cylinder. Never had a problem. Got almost 100k on my truck doing it that way and no problems. Still on the original calipers and brake fluid (that'll change this summer hopefully). Now, I do usually pop the top on the reservoir just so there's not so much pressure on the system. But otherwise I leave the bleeder closed and don't worry about it.

__________________
2001 QC SB AT 4X4
Adrenaline+7x.010 injectors+HTT 62/71/13ss+Billet DTT=
14.6@96mph (pre billet)

Whenever I have changed pads I have always changed the fluid too, contaminants build up so ya gots to let it go

On my 01 I am still on OEM pads with over 50% left, truck has 85k on it, the Jacobs brake does most of the work

[dodgentwo]

Originally Posted by illflem

I'm glad the fellow that wrote this said to open the bleed screw while compressing the cylinder.
Many people don't and end up ruining an ABS unit or master cylinder.
Not only are the units not designed for back pressure you will force some of the dirtiest fluid in the system back into critical parts by forcing the cylinder down.

My dad is a retired mechanic and taught me to bleed it while compressing the cylinder as well, for the same reason as you explain.


The only thing I would add to his instructions would be to keep ur old fluid you bleed out in a mason jar, (or just dump a little from ur brake fluid bottle) run a hose from the bleeder valve into the mason jar and stick the hose/tube down in the fluid and when ur helper gets done pumping the brakes and holds it, you then break the bleeder valve and you will see the bubbles from the air in the line, blow bubbles in the fluid.

When you don't see anymore air bubbles coming from the hose/tube, while the hose/tube is down in the fluid in the jar, is when the trapped air should be all gone.

My dad also always told me to start bleeding the brakes from the point farthest away from the master cylinder and work ur way back towards the master cylinder to help insure you get most if not all of the trapped air out.

__________________
'97, 2500 Red 4x4, 5spd Reg. Cab, Kinda stock

'97, 2500 White/Gray 4x4, 5spd Club Cab, Hydraulic dump bed, kinda stock

[TimmyWilliams]

keep in mind that even if you habe never had a problem bleeding brakes this way, it doesn't mean it can't happen. if you do have anything nasty in the line, it can get stuck in the proportioning valve off the ABS. then you have to replace the whole unit. big money

[illflem]

Originally Posted by TimmyWilliams

keep in mind that even if you have never had a problem bleeding brakes this way, it doesn't mean it can't happen.

Same goes for welding on a rig without disconnecting the batteries.
I'd done it hundreds of times with no problems till one time welding on the tailgate of a Toyota when stray current fried the vehicle computer.
$900 out of my own pocket convinced me to disconnect from then on.

__________________
Bill
'95 2500 4wd auto
'95 3500 5 speed heavy hauler
Both far from stock

I'm glad the fellow that wrote this said to open the bleed screw while compressing the cylinder.

Thanks Bill

Also I welded on my truck and fried my ECM ...

Very True statements here

DM

[Kenbob]

Bleeding questions and answers were great guys! Do I start a new thread on Replacement of the pads as defined or not, I don't know?
The Dodge Brakes SUCK! As all Dodge truck owners know. I have had many trucks in my life and the Ford F-250 brakes sucked too, but are better than the stock crap Dodge gave me on my 98.5 2500 cummins. I went to slotted roters and high performance pads and it works noticably better, but I'm still not impressed. The anti lock system is as well below average in performance.
Just my opinion.

[Mopar1973Man]

As for the fluid...

Brake fluid will pull moisture from the air. This will cause the boiling point of the brake fluid to fall. So now when you need to stop hard and fast you brake fluid might start to boil and fail! Also the moisture will rust metal parts like calipers and wheel cylinders and cause them to leak!

So change your brake fluid every 30K or 3 Years... Even though my shoes are in great shape yet 76K+ and still looking new. I already changed my brake fluid twice in my ownership of this truck! I'm heading towards a third change at 90K miles.

Another example is the fire trucks we have up here. We found a small puddle under one of the rear tires and it was brake fluid. After looking it over the brake fluid was dark almost like used diesel oil. What happen was the water sinks to the bottom of the fluid and was rusting out the rear wheel cylinders and ther master cylinder while it sat in the bay.

__________________

Michael Nelson - 2002 Dodge Cummins

Some very valid point here

The brake fluid is prolly the most neglected fluid in the truck, change the fluid guys yer brakes will love ya for it

[LinemanTater]

I'm having the front brakes done next week, Whitmore do you know how much fluid I should buy to do the front brakes???

__________________
07,5.9, 4wd Mega Cab, 3500, Dually, Auto, Rhino Liner, SMARTY CR, (Thanks To Mr. Wagner!!) Quadzilla Commander, (Diesel Nut) ICEBOX Intake w/DPP Torque Tube, Fleetguard FS20000 Lubricity adding, 5 micron Fuel Filter setup. (W/Custom made Bracket)