Oil Pan gasket

[01Cummins24v]

So how much of a job is it to replace the oil pan gasket?

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1997 Regular Cab Long Bed 4x4, Auto, BHAF, #100 Plate, 6" Mitre Cut Stack, KDP Tabbed, 2.5" leveling kit, 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, 5spd swap in the works.

Ohio Coal Rollers

[Kevron]

Originally Posted by 01Cummins24v

So how much of a job is it to replace the oil pan gasket?

according to the dealer when they quoted me, they claimed they had to jack the engine up and in order to do that they had to take it off the mounts and stuff. and sometimes it wont go far enough up and they would have to take the cab off.

im not sure about that tho, seems like you could drop the pan a coupe inches and then slide a new one in there. iv just been dealing with a leaky one...

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01 24Valve 2500 QC LB, Silver, 2in lift, and DPPI 275RV Injectors, Power Pro Programmer.

[side2000]

it'd be hard to do without gettin pan out of way cuz you got the crank in the way. jack motor up as far as you can and if it wont clear take valve cover off to get an extra inch or 2. shouldnt be that bad.

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'02HO, SO pump, nv5600 behind 550 valair single, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 195k 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 315's. broke nv56- - -wanna sell me one pm me.

[ynots57]

Originally Posted by Kevron

seems like you could drop the pan a coupe inches and then slide a new one in there. iv just been dealing with a leaky one...

getting the old one off would be a piece of cake but getting the new one past the pickup tube would be challenging. i thought id read that someone here had done it

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05 - 2500, 4x4x6, 48re, aero, aem & other $tuff

"Many times a mans mouth broke his nose"

[side2000]

i think you could do it if you fiddled with it long enough-but theres no way youre gettin it past the pickup without gettin oil all over yer fresh gasket-"but you can just clean the gasket once you get it in place side2000"-it will leak sooner than later.

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'02HO, SO pump, nv5600 behind 550 valair single, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 195k 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 315's. broke nv56- - -wanna sell me one pm me.

[01Cummins24v]

Thats what I was afraid of, I really dont want to get into jacking the motor up but the pan is leaking and I cant stand that...

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1997 Regular Cab Long Bed 4x4, Auto, BHAF, #100 Plate, 6" Mitre Cut Stack, KDP Tabbed, 2.5" leveling kit, 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, 5spd swap in the works.

Ohio Coal Rollers

[Kevron]

yeah i forgot about the pickup tube...so yup, gonna have to jack the engine up.

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01 24Valve 2500 QC LB, Silver, 2in lift, and DPPI 275RV Injectors, Power Pro Programmer.

[totalloser]

Ok, first the way to deal with the pickup tube is to take it off with the pan. Second, the reason it's such a PAIN is that the (trying not to curse here...) engineers used studs on a couple of the fasteners on the pan. This means that to get it off, you have to pull it down far enough to clear those danged studs. Personally I would vise grip them out, and replace them with bolts. You still HAVE to jack up the engine though. There is simply not enough clearance otherwise.

Make sure the oil you see isn't coming from somewhere else, like the puke bottle (biggest culprit) or valve cover or something. Tracing an oil leak, go forward and up, as gravity and airflow make oil go down and back. It's enough of a pain you might try snugging your pan bolts first if you are sure it's the pan gasket.

It MAY not be the same on your truck as mine as you have a 2wd, but on mine the frame crossmember is maybe an inch off the pan. They coulda made it easier, pretty easily.

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01 24v 100hp tips, 4"ss BDbrake &steering brace PSCpump 1.5"dom steering tapped box 1.5"ram manual CAD switch dual carters 3.55's LSD, big shaft nv5600/241HD 6 35's inners pulled in (no spacer) Ugly black and thrashed!

[leatonl]

There is no studs for oil pan fasteners. There is a couple of bolts with studs on the end but they are still bolts. With a 2wd you still have to raise the engine but not that much. The motor mounts are slotted so all you have to do is take the nut out and push the bolt out a little. The pickup tube comes off with 4 10mm bolts that you can get to with the pan un bolted.

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2007.5 2500 QCSB 4x4 Auto XRT, S&B, 5" TBE, Carli Starter Kit with extras, 285/75 Terra Grapplers

[01Cummins24v]

I changed my oil pan gasket yesterday, I only have 80 bucks and 5 hours worth of wok in it. I took off the intake, valve cover, fan, and the driver side front tire. I jacked the motor up and with the suspension drooped I had plenty of room to pull the oil pan out and get it back on no problem. After the 5 hours of work I have new oil and oil pain gasket but still have my leak. I was almost sure the oil pan was the leak because its coming from the front but it is not wet above the oil pan and the over flow bottle is empty. So its going to my local diesel mechanic...

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1997 Regular Cab Long Bed 4x4, Auto, BHAF, #100 Plate, 6" Mitre Cut Stack, KDP Tabbed, 2.5" leveling kit, 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, 5spd swap in the works.

Ohio Coal Rollers

[Bandit]

If it's coming from the front it may be the timing cover seal. Or your oil pan may be a tad uneven on the front, only straightening that out will make the gasket seal properly.

[01Cummins24v]

well we used RTV on both sides of the gasket and let it dry for 2 hours before adding oil and my buddy who helped works for Warrior Racing out of Troy, Ohio and does that crap all the time so hopefully we got it done right.

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1997 Regular Cab Long Bed 4x4, Auto, BHAF, #100 Plate, 6" Mitre Cut Stack, KDP Tabbed, 2.5" leveling kit, 35" Dunlop Mud Rovers, 5spd swap in the works.

Ohio Coal Rollers