Oil Pan gasket

***01Cummins24v*** · 10-28-2008, 06:17 PM

So how much of a job is it to replace the oil pan gasket?

__________________

Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com

2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains

Ohio Coal Rollers

Kevron · 10-28-2008, 06:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 01Cummins24v

So how much of a job is it to replace the oil pan gasket?

according to the dealer when they quoted me, they claimed they had to jack the engine up and in order to do that they had to take it off the mounts and stuff. and sometimes it wont go far enough up and they would have to take the cab off.

im not sure about that tho, seems like you could drop the pan a coupe inches and then slide a new one in there. iv just been dealing with a leaky one...

__________________
01 24Valve 2500 QC LB, Silver, 2in lift, and DPPI 275RV Injectors, Power Pro Programmer.

side2000 · 10-28-2008, 06:25 PM

it'd be hard to do without gettin pan out of way cuz you got the crank in the way. jack motor up as far as you can and if it wont clear take valve cover off to get an extra inch or 2. shouldnt be that bad.

__________________
'02HO, SO pump, nv5600, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 180,000mi. 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 285's.

- -briefly known as "Cummingsguy". . . .

ynots57 · 10-28-2008, 06:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Kevron

seems like you could drop the pan a coupe inches and then slide a new one in there. iv just been dealing with a leaky one...

getting the old one off would be a piece of cake but getting the new one past the pickup tube would be challenging. i thought id read that someone here had done it

__________________
05 - 2500, 4x4x6 srw, 48re, aero, aem & other stuff

side2000 · 10-28-2008, 06:36 PM

i think you could do it if you fiddled with it long enough-but theres no way youre gettin it past the pickup without gettin oil all over yer fresh gasket-"but you can just clean the gasket once you get it in place side2000"-it will leak sooner than later.

__________________
'02HO, SO pump, nv5600, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 180,000mi. 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 285's.

- -briefly known as "Cummingsguy". . . .

***01Cummins24v*** · 10-28-2008, 07:13 PM

Thats what I was afraid of, I really dont want to get into jacking the motor up but the pan is leaking and I cant stand that...

__________________

Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com

2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains

Ohio Coal Rollers

Kevron · 10-28-2008, 09:30 PM

yeah i forgot about the pickup tube...so yup, gonna have to jack the engine up.

__________________
01 24Valve 2500 QC LB, Silver, 2in lift, and DPPI 275RV Injectors, Power Pro Programmer.

totalloser · 10-28-2008, 10:25 PM

Ok, first the way to deal with the pickup tube is to take it off with the pan. Second, the reason it's such a PAIN is that the (trying not to curse here...) engineers used studs on a couple of the fasteners on the pan. This means that to get it off, you have to pull it down far enough to clear those danged studs. Personally I would vise grip them out, and replace them with bolts. You still HAVE to jack up the engine though. There is simply not enough clearance otherwise.

Make sure the oil you see isn't coming from somewhere else, like the puke bottle (biggest culprit) or valve cover or something. Tracing an oil leak, go forward and up, as gravity and airflow make oil go down and back. It's enough of a pain you might try snugging your pan bolts first if you are sure it's the pan gasket.

It MAY not be the same on your truck as mine as you have a 2wd, but on mine the frame crossmember is maybe an inch off the pan.

They coulda made it easier, pretty easily.

__________________
01 24v 100hp tips, 4"ss BDbrake &steering brace PSCpump 1.5"dom steering tapped box 1.5"ram manual CAD switch dual carters 3.55's LSD, big shaft nv5600/241HD 6 35's inners pulled in (no spacer) Ugly black and thrashed!

leatonl · 10-28-2008, 10:49 PM

There is no studs for oil pan fasteners. There is a couple of bolts with studs on the end but they are still bolts. With a 2wd you still have to raise the engine but not that much. The motor mounts are slotted so all you have to do is take the nut out and push the bolt out a little. The pickup tube comes off with 4 10mm bolts that you can get to with the pan un bolted.

__________________
2007.5 2500 4x4 Auto XRT, S&B, 5" TBE

***01Cummins24v*** · 11-02-2008, 01:36 PM

I changed my oil pan gasket yesterday, I only have 80 bucks and 5 hours worth of wok in it. I took off the intake, valve cover, fan, and the driver side front tire. I jacked the motor up and with the suspension drooped I had plenty of room to pull the oil pan out and get it back on no problem. After the 5 hours of work I have new oil and oil pain gasket but still have my leak. I was almost sure the oil pan was the leak because its coming from the front but it is not wet above the oil pan and the over flow bottle is empty. So its going to my local diesel mechanic...

__________________

Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com

2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains

Ohio Coal Rollers

Bandit · 11-02-2008, 01:38 PM

If it's coming from the front it may be the timing cover seal. Or your oil pan may be a tad uneven on the front, only straightening that out will make the gasket seal properly.

***01Cummins24v*** · 11-02-2008, 01:45 PM

well we used RTV on both sides of the gasket and let it dry for 2 hours before adding oil and my buddy who helped works for Warrior Racing out of Troy, Ohio and does that crap all the time so hopefully we got it done right.

__________________

Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com

2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains

Ohio Coal Rollers

10-28-2008, 06:17 PM	#1 (permalink)
*01Cummins24v* Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 668 01Cummins24v's Truck Pics	Oil Pan gasket So how much of a job is it to replace the oil pan gasket? __________________ Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com 2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains Ohio Coal Rollers

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

Remove Advertisements Sponsored Links
Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum Advertisement

10-28-2008, 06:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
side2000 Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MD Posts: 822 side2000's Truck Pics	it'd be hard to do without gettin pan out of way cuz you got the crank in the way. jack motor up as far as you can and if it wont clear take valve cover off to get an extra inch or 2. shouldnt be that bad. __________________ '02HO, SO pump, nv5600, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 180,000mi. 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 285's. - -briefly known as "Cummingsguy". . . .

10-28-2008, 06:36 PM	#5 (permalink)
side2000 Diesel Freak Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: MD Posts: 822 side2000's Truck Pics	i think you could do it if you fiddled with it long enough-but theres no way youre gettin it past the pickup without gettin oil all over yer fresh gasket-"but you can just clean the gasket once you get it in place side2000"-it will leak sooner than later. __________________ '02HO, SO pump, nv5600, FASS 150, Isspro: pyro, boost, fuel press. ddp 110's, stock turbo, 180,000mi. 'n countin fast, 5in. straight pipe, afe intake, edge drag comp, 285's. - -briefly known as "Cummingsguy". . . .

10-28-2008, 07:13 PM	#6 (permalink)
*01Cummins24v* Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 668 01Cummins24v's Truck Pics	Thats what I was afraid of, I really dont want to get into jacking the motor up but the pan is leaking and I cant stand that... __________________ Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com 2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains Ohio Coal Rollers

10-28-2008, 09:30 PM	#7 (permalink)
Kevron Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: Juneau, AK Posts: 230 Kevron's Truck Pics	yeah i forgot about the pickup tube...so yup, gonna have to jack the engine up. __________________ 01 24Valve 2500 QC LB, Silver, 2in lift, and DPPI 275RV Injectors, Power Pro Programmer.

10-28-2008, 10:25 PM	#8 (permalink)
totalloser Diesel Head Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Fort Bragg, CA Posts: 1,077 totalloser's Truck Pics	Ok, first the way to deal with the pickup tube is to take it off with the pan. Second, the reason it's such a PAIN is that the (trying not to curse here...) engineers used studs on a couple of the fasteners on the pan. This means that to get it off, you have to pull it down far enough to clear those danged studs. Personally I would vise grip them out, and replace them with bolts. You still HAVE to jack up the engine though. There is simply not enough clearance otherwise. Make sure the oil you see isn't coming from somewhere else, like the puke bottle (biggest culprit) or valve cover or something. Tracing an oil leak, go forward and up, as gravity and airflow make oil go down and back. It's enough of a pain you might try snugging your pan bolts first if you are sure it's the pan gasket. It MAY not be the same on your truck as mine as you have a 2wd, but on mine the frame crossmember is maybe an inch off the pan. They coulda made it easier, pretty easily. __________________ 01 24v 100hp tips, 4"ss BDbrake &steering brace PSCpump 1.5"dom steering tapped box 1.5"ram manual CAD switch dual carters 3.55's LSD, big shaft nv5600/241HD 6 35's inners pulled in (no spacer) Ugly black and thrashed!

10-28-2008, 10:49 PM	#9 (permalink)
leatonl Cummins Enthusiast Join Date: Mar 2008 Location: Westminster, CO Posts: 257 leatonl's Truck Pics	There is no studs for oil pan fasteners. There is a couple of bolts with studs on the end but they are still bolts. With a 2wd you still have to raise the engine but not that much. The motor mounts are slotted so all you have to do is take the nut out and push the bolt out a little. The pickup tube comes off with 4 10mm bolts that you can get to with the pan un bolted. __________________ 2007.5 2500 4x4 Auto XRT, S&B, 5" TBE

11-02-2008, 01:36 PM	#10 (permalink)
*01Cummins24v* Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 668 01Cummins24v's Truck Pics	I changed my oil pan gasket yesterday, I only have 80 bucks and 5 hours worth of wok in it. I took off the intake, valve cover, fan, and the driver side front tire. I jacked the motor up and with the suspension drooped I had plenty of room to pull the oil pan out and get it back on no problem. After the 5 hours of work I have new oil and oil pain gasket but still have my leak. I was almost sure the oil pan was the leak because its coming from the front but it is not wet above the oil pan and the over flow bottle is empty. So its going to my local diesel mechanic... __________________ Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com 2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains Ohio Coal Rollers

11-02-2008, 01:38 PM	#11 (permalink)
Bandit Banned Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: On the moon Posts: 1,324 Bandit's Truck Pics	If it's coming from the front it may be the timing cover seal. Or your oil pan may be a tad uneven on the front, only straightening that out will make the gasket seal properly.

11-02-2008, 01:45 PM	#12 (permalink)
*01Cummins24v* Cummins Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Dayton, Ohio Posts: 668 01Cummins24v's Truck Pics	well we used RTV on both sides of the gasket and let it dry for 2 hours before adding oil and my buddy who helped works for Warrior Racing out of Troy, Ohio and does that crap all the time so hopefully we got it done right. __________________ Powered By: Farmboysdiesel.com 2001.5 Quad Cab Short Bed, 4X4, Automatic, HTS "Race" Valve Body, HX35W Turbo, Boost Elbow, Edge EZ, Airdog 150, Smoke Switch, Straight Piped, Lukes Link'd Tracbar, and a HBS 2.5" Leveling kit, H2's with 315/70/17" BFG All-Terrains Ohio Coal Rollers