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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 24V Forums > 98.5-02 Powertrain
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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Old 11-26-2013, 09:00 PM   #13 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azelgin View Post
I too have found it far easier to criticize the advice of others, rather than add something new of my own. . . . but I try not to.
Many give incorrect or incomplete information. I directed him to all he needs. FSM tells where the leaks can be and how to remove pumps.

Peter has video with accurate reseal info. He also will walk anyone through the diagnosis. Cost is approximately $15 more than a bare bones kit. OP said he didn't know where to start. He now has access to all he needs.

You have a problem with that? Apparently.
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Old 11-26-2013, 09:07 PM   #14 (permalink)
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You both have helped me out so lets just all agree
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Old 11-27-2013, 04:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Junkman View Post

You have a problem with that? Apparently.
Junkman: I have no problem when the information is correct. You said he didn't need to replace the pump. How do you know, until it has been tested? I never said the pump needed to be replaced. I was quoting the service manual. There are repair kits available to replace the seals, but I haven't had to repair the vane and rotor portion of a pump, so, I never looked in to a kit for that part of the pump.
I agree that the FSM is a very valuable tool to have, but some things have changed in the time since it was written. For example: now you can buy a seal repair kit(but not from Dodge) and a rebuilt pump. Pumps used to be $1200, now, I've seen rebuilts for $250. When I offered my suggestions, I was just trying to condense the information I had read into a short and simple version. Believe me, I will not be making any more suggestions to owners on here, about how they should take care of their trucks. I'll leave that to you.
Here is what the 2001 FSM, Section 7-35, that you said has the information he needs, about pump replacement:

The vacuum pump is not a serviceable component.
If diagnosis indicates a pump malfunction, the pump
must be replaced as an assembly. Do not disassemble
or attempt to repair the pump.
The combined vacuum and steering pump assembly
must be removed for access to either pump. However,
the vacuum pump can be removed without
having to disassemble the power steering pump.
If the power steering pump requires service, simply
remove the assembly and separate the two pumps.
Refer to the pump removal and installation procedures
in this section.
OPERATION
Vacuum pump output is transmitted to the
HEVAC, speed control, systems through a supply
hose. The hose is connected to an outlet port on the
pump housing and uses an in-line check valve to
retain system vacuum when vehicle is not running.
Pump output ranges from a minimum of 8.5 to 25
inches vacuum.
The pump rotor and vanes are rotated by the pump
drive gear. The drive gear is operated by the camshaft
gear.
DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING—VACUUM PUMP
OUTPUT
The vacuum pump supplies necessary vacuum to
components in the following systems:
² HEVAC system
² Speed Control System
A quick check to determine if the vacuum pump is
the cause of the problem in any of these systems is to
road test the vehicle and verify that all of these systems
are fuctioning properly. If only one of these has
a vacuum related failure, then it is likely the vacuum
pump is not the cause.
A standard vacuum gauge can be used to check
pump output when necessary. Simply disconnect the
pump supply hose and connect a vacuum gauge to
the outlet port for testing purposes. With the engine
running, vacuum output should be a minimum of 25
inches, depending on engine speed.
DIAGNOSING LOW VACUUM OUTPUT CONDITION
If the vacuum pump is suspected of low vacuum
output, check the pump and vacuum harnesses as
follows:
(1) Visually inspect the vacuum harness for obvious
failures (i.e. disconnected, cracks, breaks etc.)
(2) Disconnect the vacuum supply hose at the vacuum
pump check valve. Connect vacuum gauge to
this valve and run engine at various throttle openings.
Output should be a minimum 25 inches of vacuum.
If vacuum is consistently below 25 inches, the
vacuum pump should be replaced.
If output is within
specified limits, the vacuum harness should be suspected
as the cause.
(3) Disconnect and isolate the vacuum supply harness.
Cap off open ends and apply roughly 15 inches
of vacuum to the harness. If the vacuum gauge does
not hold its reading, then there is an open in the harness
and it should be repaired or replaced.
(4) If the vacuum loss is still not detected at this
point, then the pump and harness are not the cause
of the low vacuum condition. Apply vacuum to the
related components of the vacuum supply system (i.e.
valves, servos, solenoids, etc.) to find the source of
the vacuum loss.
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Glad this site has an "Ignore" function
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:21 AM   #16 (permalink)
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azel:

His pump did not suddenly fail at the exact time he installed a VP. Peter will walk him through the whole thing. He also likely has parts and pumps around the shop. His bid shows how to dismantle the pump. One of the best resources out there for this particular issue.

I expect the FSM to have vac system. OP can go look.
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:34 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I feel like an idiot but what is FSM?
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Old 11-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #18 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99coalroller24V View Post
I feel like an idiot but what is FSM?
Factory Service Manual

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Old 11-27-2013, 04:49 PM   #19 (permalink)
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I second the gould pump repair kit. I did it 3 years ago and it hasn't leaked since. It even comes with extra seals and a DVD to show you how to do it.
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Old 11-28-2013, 12:13 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Its only about $12 from cummins
Cummins part# 4089742 vacuum pump seal kit
If there's no cummins certified dealer near you, I would call Mumau Diesel

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Old 11-29-2013, 02:02 AM   #21 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 99coalroller24V View Post
My vacuum pump is leaking oil and has the bottom of my engine is caked with oil. I also do not have cruise or 4wd. Since the vacuum pump is leaking oil, will this make the vacuum pump no create enough vacuum to control the 4wd and cruise control? Its been out a while and Ive asked on here but I really dont know where to start. It all happened after a Vp44 change and one hose coming off the Vacuum pump was off so I plugged it back in and nothing work still.
got my rebuild kit from genos works good and easy to do
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Old 11-29-2013, 07:20 AM   #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brennan81 View Post
I second the gould pump repair kit. I did it 3 years ago and it hasn't leaked since. It even comes with extra seals and a DVD to show you how to do it.
I agree, I got the Gould kit and put it in last year. It is well worth the money,
and the DVD gives you some great tips on the rebuild and installation. Gould also gives you his phone number, and you can contact him direct if you have a question or problem. I bought my kit from Geno's garage.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:54 AM   #23 (permalink)
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Geneos also has the vanes in stock when mine started leaking about a year ago I replaced everything vanes and all took less time to rebuild pump than it did to take it off the darn thing
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Old 11-29-2013, 04:08 PM   #24 (permalink)
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Gould has one kit for 29.99 and the other is for 59.99 the only difference is one has a DVD and plastic things to set tihe seals in and the other doesnt have them two things?
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