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98.5-02 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .
Don't pull so hard? You must of had a Ford in your lifetime. lol just kidding. I go by what I have always done. If it acts different than it use to then something changed. I haven't had any cooling problems since I blew out the radiator with the pipe BTW. Even on the hardest pulls (7% grade or more) it never gets more than a sliver above half (A/C blastin on 100 degree days)
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99 QCLB Red 4x4 53 block,nv5600,213k miles.Edge,ATS Manifold,Head Studs,Pacbrake,SouthBend Clutch,Raptor 150,Transferflow tank,tows everyday Still original injection pump.
Have towed a bit in my life but new to towing with my wife's 1999 Dodge 4X4 2500 auto trans with no modifications and 105k miles. Pulling a 25ft Airstream (weight ~8700 lbs). First time the tuck has pulled any thing relatively heavy (has pulled may horse trailers previous with mild overheating). Had it overheat on a long pull in 3rd gear pulling at about 1500 rpm. Pegged the engine temp gauge and the light for the transmission came on. After I pulled off and stopped and placed in park and ran the engine at about 2000 rpm for 3-5 mins temp came down. Started up again and after hill trans would not go into overdrive (temp lockout). When it cooled down more the trans appeared to work fine.
NEVER PARK!!!!!!!!!!! NETURAL ONLY!!!!!!! You will fry that tranny that way
Stopped at car wash and cleaned out the radiator. Still got hot after that.
My thought is that on pulls it is the trans temp that is heating up the engine. I think this because I look closely at the cooling system and in my mind it is kind of a stupid design. I will explain. The trans fluid is pumped from the trans to a heat exchanger (trans fluid circulating through a unit with engine coolant in it on the passenger side of the engine). Then the trans fluid goes up to the aux trans cooler and then back to the trans. The part that appears stupid to me is that the heat exchanger take engine coolant directly from the engine block (so it is taking HOT engine coolant) and then circulating it with HOT trans fluid and then dumping the engine coolant directly back into the HOT engine making the engine even HOTTER.
Close, the fluid goes to a oil heater, and then to the radiator then back to the transmission.
My fix - another auxiliary trans cooler just behind the trans on the driver side. B&M Cooler with an temp activated integrated fan. Now the trans fluid runs from the trans to the new cooler then to the heat exchanger and then to the auxiliary trans cooler in the front of the radiator then back to the trans.
Have done moderate/heavy pulling for 20 mins straight since then and and engine temp maxs at just over 190.
We will see . . .
Answers in blue hopes it help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by totalloser
As the thermostat opens up at 190, it will allow the engine temps to climb a bit. This is normal up to a point. Checking the t-stat is simple. put it in a pot of water with a thermometer and bring it up to 190. It should open FULLY just past 190. If not, it may have leaked some of the wax from the pellet, and must be replaced. Brass pellet t-stats used to be available, but I haven't seen them in a while. Couldn't find one for mine. My t-stat failed OPEN. Didn't know that was even possible. Bought it that way, maybe it was fooled with.
Dropping it a gear will help quite a bit too. Causes a leaner fuel mix, which in a diesel, runs cooler. Works for me, but I only tow 5k usually.
Cummins T-Stat's fail OPEN
First, remove your radiator and inter cooler and then hit them with a power washer and clean them out, second check water pump, T-stat, and cut out the muffler on your exhaust train, what are your pyro's up to?
Its usually simple things that balloon to this.
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99 3500 Built DTT Auto, 600 lower TC, 3.55, 4x4, BHAF, 6" lift, ARP's, Danin Optix, Gauges, DAP 60hp sticks, FASS 95, 2LO kit, HIGH Idle, Silencer ring delete, 4" exhaust, SMARTY, 06 Dakota V6 Big Thanks to (FTE Diesel),(DAP),(DTT) They ROCK!
Last edited by pepsi71ocean; 11-28-2009 at 07:31 PM.
On a recent trip up to a mountaintop on a dirt road in 4X4, I found the truck ran a lot cooler in 4x4 Low. I need to pull the thermostat and replace it ant the serpentine. Maybe a good job for this weekend!
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1999 4x4 Quad Cab, auto trans, Superchips programmer, 3.55 gears, ART brakes, Ham Radio, antenna farm! Suncoast apps grounding mod
a few years back i was pulling a loaded trailer up the pass in lower Oregon going to sacramento for a race .near the top i hit very high temps.finished the trip coming back drove over that pass at 1 in the morning to avoid the very high temps outside.it did help.when i got home i changed my thermostat and it didn't help at all.i then relocated my breather tube,removed the radiator and hosed it down with a good degreaser.let it soak for about 2 hours the hosed it off.i have never had a over heating problem again.a good way to check to see if your radiator might be full of crap is to rub your hand on the inside of your fan shroud..if its full of crap it usually means it has pushed a ton of crap into the back of your radiator.
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01 2500 4x4,built tranny,fuel,pyro,transtemp,boost gauges,airdog100,B.H.A.F.,j-hook,edge ez,silencer ring removed and never going back on!!!other mods coming soon.
I have an 01 2500 with a 5 speed manual transmission 4" MBRP exhaust K&N Air intake. I have don all of the above. New stat ,belt ,cooling system flushed ,rad cleaned.The main difference with mine is that it overheats in ther summer and will not provide proper heat in the winter even though the temperature gauge reads a good temp. Could it possibly be the water pump.
I have an 01 2500 with a 5 speed manual transmission 4" MBRP exhaust K&N Air intake. I have don all of the above. New stat ,belt ,cooling system flushed ,rad cleaned.The main difference with mine is that it overheats in ther summer and will not provide proper heat in the winter even though the temperature gauge reads a good temp. Could it possibly be the water pump.
how many miles do you have through your engine, it could be the water pump it seems like there is not enough flow through the block /radiator, and assemblies.
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99 3500 Built DTT Auto, 600 lower TC, 3.55, 4x4, BHAF, 6" lift, ARP's, Danin Optix, Gauges, DAP 60hp sticks, FASS 95, 2LO kit, HIGH Idle, Silencer ring delete, 4" exhaust, SMARTY, 06 Dakota V6 Big Thanks to (FTE Diesel),(DAP),(DTT) They ROCK!
The Following User Says Thank You to pepsi71ocean For This Useful Post:
how many miles do you have through your engine, it could be the water pump it seems like there is not enough flow through the block /radiator, and assemblies.
thats kinda what i was thinking, the engine has about 190, 000 miles on it. (312,000 km)
I know this thread is old but people still come in here to educate themselves.
I had the over heating problem for years. I finally took it too my buddy mechanic and he found out that the breather bottle was knocked loose and the breather tube was just emptying out into my fans, radiator, tranny, ect.
He EXTENDED the tube and took the bottle off and threw it away. Then he had to spend hours cleaning all the fins with degreaser.
We could not see down far enough to know it was a problem with out tearing it apart. Now it never over heats.
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2000 Dodge DRW extended cab, AT 4x4, Superchip, Raptor 100 w/Drawstraw, 2-cycle diet, Fuel, boost, Pyro triple A-pillar.
2005 Dodge DRW Four door Auto 4x4, no adds Excessive blowby, need ring kit.
The Following User Says Thank You to Dieselnooby For This Useful Post:
I am having the same issue with over heating and I have replaced the radiator, thermostat, fan clutch, put on a breather canister, but it is still overheating while towing a 10,000lb trailer up the hills. I am doing about 55 MPH. My transmission temp is about 165 and exhaust gas temps are about 1300 max on the climb. I will check out the transmission cooler idea. Any other thoughts?
I have an 01 2500 with a 5 speed manual transmission 4" MBRP exhaust K&N Air intake. I have don all of the above. New stat ,belt ,cooling system flushed ,rad cleaned.The main difference with mine is that it overheats in ther summer and will not provide proper heat in the winter even though the temperature gauge reads a good temp. Could it possibly be the water pump.
Define "overheats". You say the gauge reads in the normal range? If it is running normal temp and don't have heat then you may have a stuck blend door or simply a stopped up heater core/cooling system. Cooling system stop leak will do this quick, fast, and in a hurry...
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02 2500, auto,4" turbo back,puck,Gauges....... E7153 Airtex LPbecause I refuse to conform...201k+ and counting on original trans.. It runs on oil so it tows stuff good.
Also just because you bought a new one doesn't mean it works.. the trend seems to be make money first then make things so they work. I replaced my thermostat but i checked it in a pot of boiling water to see what temp it opened up at. first one was over 10 degrees off to the high side. NOT! went thru 2 clutch fans b4 i went back to dodge one. aftermarket ones usually don't have feature where they lock up 100% at idle even when hot unless they are at lock up temp. They would not lock up untill the truck was almost into the red. The dodge one sounds like a dang airplane when it kicks in. You should hear that. You will not miss it, It's loud if it's working. I'm sure there is a couple aftermarket ones that work good.. i just didn't find any.. they were not cheap either over $120. Dodge one was around $160. Open your cap and let your truck warm up.. you should notice a big difference in the amount of water flowing from cold to hot.
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99 QCLB Red 4x4 53 block,nv5600,213k miles.Edge,ATS Manifold,Head Studs,Pacbrake,SouthBend Clutch,Raptor 150,Transferflow tank,tows everyday Still original injection pump.
If you have a cummins dealer nearby, I'd get the cummins tstat, vs getting the dodge one from the dealer...I think I paid about 45-50 for mine, on my 01, when I replaced it, as the old one had stuck open. For those of you with manual trannys, as long as your radiator isn't gunked up, when pulling those steep grades, just downshift, and let the RPM's run about 2500. That's what I did when I moved from California to Indiana, in the middle of the summer. Temps would start creeping up, especially around Denver, but I just downshifted to 4th, and ran the truck at 2500 RPM. Doing this, I could watch my temp guage drop, as I was still pulling strong uphill.
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96 4x4 DRW, Mahle .040 over pistons, Oringed, 12mm studs, Maxspool Stage 2 cam, 5kgsk, DDP 140, S300/HT3B, SB DD3600, EMS manual lockouts, PSC steering, ATS 3piece manifold, 4 in aluminum rear driveshaft, 3 in lift, 5 in ex turbo back, US Gear exhaust brake
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They ROCK!
. It runs on oil so it tows stuff good.
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