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Old 10-21-2012, 12:58 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Prime a fuel filter after a change

So........... I just changed my fuel filter and did not relize the the fuel pump would not "prime" the fuel filter housing by just cycling the ignition/key on and off multiple times (as you might do on a gas rig to prime with the tank fuel pump) SO.............. I tried starting it (only once) and drained the line from the filter housting to the manifold. She fired and then died.

NOW...... should I fill the fuel filter housing (correctly by filling it with fuel), then fill the line from the manifold by pouring fuel in it, then reconnect it to the filter housing. THEN try and start it again??????????????

Your help (if you have been in this situation) would be greatly appreciated.

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Old 10-21-2012, 01:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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You could bump your starter a few times, this will give you a "free" 25ish second run of the lift pump, that will fill the low side of the fuel system but you will need to manually bleed the high side of the fuel system by cracking a few injector lines.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:58 AM   #3 (permalink)
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you will need to manually bleed the high side of the fuel system by cracking a few injector lines.
To manully blead, jus pull them off, fill them up with fuel and install?????
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:04 AM   #4 (permalink)
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To manully blead, jus pull them off, fill them up with fuel and install?????
No no... It will require 2 people one to turn the truck over and the other to crack the injector. While one is turning the truck over the other will loosen the injector line that goes into the head with a 19mm wrench to let the air bubbles leak out and when you see fuel tighten it back up. I usually do it on 1 2 and 4 and by then it fires make sure you tighten them back up real tight or you will leak fuel out of them.
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Old 10-21-2012, 02:08 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Also be very careful as to not have any finger clothing or anything in the way of moving parts or you will loose them... Safety first not worth it of you loose a finger... My buddy messed up and was wearing a hoodie and the neck string got caught in the fan hit his head on the valve cover but was strong enough to keep his head out of the fan and ripped the string a nice gash on the forehead though... Just be careful.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:21 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Not to completely disagree, but I've never had to manually bleed the injectors after changing the fuel filter and/or draining the housing. It does take a while but it's always started.

I bump the ignition a couple times to fill the housing and then crank it. I never just sit there and crank it though, crank it some, then off, then crank it some, and it always starts. What works for me may not work for you of course.
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Old 10-21-2012, 11:34 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I did the same thing with mine, and the lift pump would not fill the filter. I had to take filter off again and fill with fuel, then cycle pump with line to VP44 loosened till I got fuel there then it started. Don't mean to hijack thread (sorry) but it seems like my fuel/lift pump is weak ?
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Old 10-21-2012, 12:22 PM   #8 (permalink)
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I did the same thing with mine, and the lift pump would not fill the filter. I had to take filter off again and fill with fuel, then cycle pump with line to VP44 loosened till I got fuel there then it started. Don't mean to hijack thread (sorry) but it seems like my fuel/lift pump is weak ?
Very much so. The same thing happened before I installed my Raptor lift pump. If you don't have a fuel pressure gauge, get one!! When I installed a fuel pressure gauge, I discovered I had no fuel pressure! The VP44 was doing all the heavy lifting. Not a good thing for the injector pump.

With my Raptor 100 one bump of the starter will fill the filter housing.
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Old 10-21-2012, 01:57 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Not to completely disagree, but I've never had to manually bleed the injectors after changing the fuel filter and/or draining the housing. It does take a while but it's always started.

I bump the ignition a couple times to fill the housing and then crank it. I never just sit there and crank it though, crank it some, then off, then crank it some, and it always starts. What works for me may not work for you of course.
This is all I've ever done too. I've never had to fiddle with an injector line because of changing a fuel filter.
And OP, by bump the ignition means turn the key on/off momentarily to turn the starter over but not start the truck, just in case there's confusion about what "bump" means.
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:12 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Here's a quick video of the "shadetree mechanic" method of priming the fuel system, also does a decent job of explaining why it's necessary on a VP44 rig. I've used this method, and though it's not exactly what the FSM calls for, it's quick and easy.
PS, excuse the lengthiness of the clip and the cameraman's accent. lol
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Old 10-21-2012, 09:26 PM   #11 (permalink)
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To change the fuel filter,
Place a catch pan under the filter housing drain line.
Open filter housing drain.
Loosen filter top and remove filter & o-ring.
Wipe out any junk, if any, at the bottom of the filter housing then close drain.
With a container of clean fuel, I fill filter housing 3/4 full.
Install new filter & o-ring and install top.
Turn the keyswitch just enough to "bump" the starter to get The Free 25 Second Lift Pump Run.
Start engine and test ride.
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Last edited by Clunk; 10-21-2012 at 09:29 PM.
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Old 10-25-2012, 12:40 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Glad I read this before trying to change my fuel filter on a day I have to get to work later!
Now I have a couple questions: First - Ive read several times that we should not manually put fuel into the housing when changing the filter due to the chance of introducing contaminants into the system. I guess if I'm super careful and use a clean container to put the fresh fuel in I can avoid contaminating it. SO should I put fuel in there or not?
Second - on my 2012 the truck automatically cranks the starter when you release the key, so you cant really "bump" the starter the way I'm used to. How can I get the lift pump to run without the starter or engine turning over? Should I let the starter engage momentarily and then turn the key off, or will the pump only run if the key is in the "run" position?
I was hoping this would be a 30 minute job but I don't want to disable the truck and have it turn into a big flail.
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