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98.5-02 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .
let me lay out exactly what has taken place. i have owned this 99 2500 4X4 for 2 months now. it was very lack luster in power and starting in 2nd gear so i pulled the transmission and had it rebuilt. i placed it back into the truck and it would not shift out of 3rd gear, it was stuck in limp mode. everything else worked but i was unable to shift it into 1st gear. my trans builder came by my house and we tested some things, he was unable to get information about the trans through his ODBII reader and we reseated some harnesses. we then tested the alternator and found it was making 11.8V. Then for the first time my check engine light came on and i started getting a 'no bus' in the dash odometer and a ECC error on the over head console, also all the gauges except the tach stoped working. i replaced the alternator and found it to also be putting out 11.8V so i suspected a possible wire issue. i replaced every power/ground in the truck, upgraded them all to 0 and 4 gauge. still no joy, what should my next step be?
ive already cleaned and reseated every single harness in the truck.
i have seen diag lists state that i should test all the voltages on the bus wires and un hook things. is this done by a volt meter on the ground and another lead into each of the individual 32 wire harnesses on the control unit that sits on the passenger firewall? i cant find a good wiring diagram online or in the 2001 service manual download that shows the damn harness with a break down of wire colors and what they go to and there voltages/ohms. with out that i dont know how i will diag this...
sounds like the ecm is going bad, no bus is the computer which has an internal voltage regulator hence why the alternator isnt doing its job very well
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technically is probably the PCM, under the cowl passenger side
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the dealer cant test the PCM out of the truck, they were unable to give me a price as i didnt have my vin in front of me. im sure that its going to be expensive so i doubt i would go that route. there are no PCM's for 100 miles in any junk yard, i just called every one i could find.
i am going to buy some testing tools and check every wire going in and out of the PCM/ECM. im going to make sure every single wire and sensor works before spending close to 800.00 an a part i might not need
Would the PCM off another auto truck work temporairaly before you drop those $$ on a new one.
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Tits and pistons burn money!!!
01 3500 Dually Q.CAB, Quad Adr.,pulse, 4" straight stainless exhaust, air dog FP 150 fuel preporator, half inch draw straw and fuel lines.Rancho 5000 shocks rear, 9 way adjustable up front, 3.55 rear end.DIY built DTT trans, triple disc low stall Goerand tc,billet flex plate and input shaft, DTT shift kit, Holset HX40W 60/65/16 turbo(stock turbo propping the door open)125hp DAP injectors pushing on the pistons, BHAF and more to come
You'll need seeing needles to make reading the pins easier and try to get a pin out from the dealer
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