Slush box question

[BlueBeast]

Before my original vp-44 died, I was running a Hypertech Max Energy on Level 3 (+50 hp) and my transmission wasn't slipping at all... even while towing fairly heavy loads.

My old vp-44 has been replaced by an Industrial Injection Remaned SO pump and now my slush box slips like crazy! I'm not running my Hypertech anymore for fear of damaging something and I'm worried about trying to tow anything bigger than a jet-ski.

Could there be something in the new pump's calibration that would mess with the ECM or the tranny?

The only other thing I can think of is that my old pump had been going bad for a long time and this is the kind of power the truck is really supposed to make!

(btw, the truck only has 156k miles on it.)

[irish power mad]

I would say that your trans is on the way out.Probably been way down on power with the old vp so it didn't show up.

[DSM909]

I just recently replaced my vp and I have yet to hook my adrenaline wire tap back up... with the ADR on Lvl 2 (60hp without wire tap) has the same power it did on Lvl 10 (180hp with wire tap.... allegedly 180 anyways..). So, yep. It just has the power it should now.

And btw, my trans has 135k on it and slips like crazy. But my slip is mostly the converter. A little on the clutches, but mostly converter.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using AutoGuide.Com Free

[BlueBeast]

Unfortunately I had to rob $1000 out of my built-transmission fund in order to replace my VP-44.

I'm pretty sure my slip is in the torque converter too as it shifts and holds gears just fine. Acceleration is where I get slip.

That's pretty sad for Chrysler when 156k miles after leaving the lot, the stock transmission can't hold the stock motor's power.

Does $2500 for a heavy duty rebuild sound about right? Basically everything except billet parts: Oversized kevlar clutch packs, shift kit, valve body, torque converter, new solenoids, labor, etc.

[DSM909]

Well, it sounds a little low if your including a torque converter and labor. I wouldn't worry about Kevlar clutches unless you are racing. Kevlar in my mind is kind of a fad... yeah, its tough but so is alot of cheaper stuff. Raybestos and borgwarner heavy duty clutches are all you will really need for a heavy duty unit. You wont need a valve body with a good shift kit. But if you go with a whole valve body, you wont need a shift kit. A good billet converter (single or triple depending on your needs) is a must.

I just bought everything DTT recommended and still need to get a billet input. Total bill with the core on the converter was 2300.

Sent from my DROID2 GLOBAL using AutoGuide.Com Free

[DannyMK2]

Originally Posted by BlueBeast

Unfortunately I had to rob $1000 out of my built-transmission fund in order to replace my VP-44.

I'm pretty sure my slip is in the torque converter too as it shifts and holds gears just fine. Acceleration is where I get slip.

That's pretty sad for Chrysler when 156k miles after leaving the lot, the stock transmission can't hold the stock motor's power.

Does $2500 for a heavy duty rebuild sound about right? Basically everything except billet parts: Oversized kevlar clutch packs, shift kit, valve body, torque converter, new solenoids, labor, etc.

$2500 sounds like a stock rebuild if its all inclusive. thats what i was quoted from aamco. honestly, if your truck has its original tranny and it made it to 156k, id say it held up damn well. most heavy duty trucks, not just dodge, that were worked dont have their transmissions last past 150k, and even thats alot.

[Jdufff25]

I don't know what kind of trucks you are driving or what you are doin to them but I've had a few trucks ford and dodge. That made it past 200k and kept going and they pulled a 25 ft enclosed or a 18 ft open loaded down with brick, bobcats, and mortar everyday of their life. In fact the ford diesel made it to around 420k before the trans finally let the ghost out. The one dodge which was a cummins made it to around 320k if I remember correctly. It's all a matter of how you take care of your vehicle. If you ride it hard and put it away wet without any maintenance then yes you are an idiot and you deserve to shell out thousands of dollars to repair your vehicle. Not trying to offend anyone here by the way just making a statement


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

[DannyMK2]

Originally Posted by Jdufff25

I don't know what kind of trucks you are driving or what you are doin to them but I've had a few trucks ford and dodge. That made it past 200k and kept going and they pulled a 25 ft enclosed or a 18 ft open loaded down with brick, bobcats, and mortar everyday of their life. In fact the ford diesel made it to around 420k before the trans finally let the ghost out. The one dodge which was a cummins made it to around 320k if I remember correctly. It's all a matter of how you take care of your vehicle. If you ride it hard and put it away wet without any maintenance then yes you are an idiot and you deserve to shell out thousands of dollars to repair your vehicle. Not trying to offend anyone here by the way just making a statement


Sent from my Autoguide iPhone app

you wont offend me. honestly, im constantly looking at trucks for sale on a daily basis and across all three brands youll see that past a certain mileage, they all seem to have rebuilt transmissions. sure, theres always exceptions to the rule. however, the 47re isnt known for longevity in stock form, and really shouldnt be a surprise to anyone when it blows up after 100k, lol. at least thats my take on it.

[SASdakota]

Wait a sec guys...

Bluebest, you are complaining about stock trans not holding stock power but that was after you hopped up the truck with tuning and exhaust. So it was damaged outside of stock power. Now that being said I think chrysler totally fumbled the stock setup on these trucks, the converter is garbage. High stall, low multiplier, and a sissy clutch, backed by a low pressure valvebody. All those add up to a terrible power transfer behind a steep torque curve.

DSMperformance, he said a trans rebuild WITHOUT things like billet shafts, labor, converter, etc...

Minor checks, adjustments, and a few key upgraded parts will go a LONNNNG way on an a518/618 (47rh, 47re, 48re)

A good low stall converter single if you dont tow much and are under 400hp. And a proper valvebody or shift kit. I recommend a vb if you aren't comfortable with doing a shift kit, don't have the tools, or if you suspect yours is worn.

Have you done a line pressure test? TV cable adjustment?


Get educated, don't just point fingers.

[BlueBeast]

I highly doubt that an exhaust, intake, and a 50hp tuner for the last 56k miles are what did my transmission in. I work my truck hard because it has to earn it's keep and even though I take good care of it, who knows what the previous owner really did with the truck for it's first 100k miles.
In any case, I think we are all in agreement that Chrysler's engineers kinda dropped the ball when they decided the 47re was a good choice for our trucks. Whatever the reason, my transmission is on it's way out the door... that much is obvious.

The original question for this thread was: "Could there be something in the new pump's calibration that would mess with the ECM or the tranny?"
So far the consensus seems to be that my old pump had been hanging on by a thread for quite some time. If someone has any other thoughts on this, please speak up!

I'm never going to exceed 400hp at the crank, but I do tow about 7,000-10,000 pounds through hilly terrain fairly regularly. So as far as the rebuild goes: a good converter, a good valve-body, new heavy duty clutches and an overhaul kit. I'm seeing "basic" and "master" kits... I'm assuming that if I'm going through it anyway I should just go with a master overhaul kit?

Sorry if some of these questions are a bit novice... I'm new to automatics.

[SASdakota]

Originally Posted by BlueBeast

I highly doubt that an exhaust, intake, and a 50hp tuner for the last 56k miles are what did my transmission in. I work my truck hard because it has to earn it's keep and even though I take good care of it, who knows what the previous owner really did with the truck for it's first 100k miles.
In any case, I think we are all in agreement that Chrysler's engineers kinda dropped the ball when they decided the 47re was a good choice for our trucks. Whatever the reason, my transmission is on it's way out the door... that much is obvious.

The original question for this thread was: "Could there be something in the new pump's calibration that would mess with the ECM or the tranny?"
So far the consensus seems to be that my old pump had been hanging on by a thread for quite some time. If someone has any other thoughts on this, please speak up!

I'm never going to exceed 400hp at the crank, but I do tow about 7,000-10,000 pounds through hilly terrain fairly regularly. So as far as the rebuild goes: a good converter, a good valve-body, new heavy duty clutches and an overhaul kit. I'm seeing "basic" and "master" kits... I'm assuming that if I'm going through it anyway I should just go with a master overhaul kit?

Sorry if some of these questions are a bit novice... I'm new to automatics.

There is nothing about the pump in any way shape or form that will change your pcm(trans). Tv cable at the trans is what to check, and length adjustment is up top at the throttle position sensor.

If you are looking for a one stop shop, goerends master kit looks fairly complete. They use raybestos/Borg clutches which are factory. Nothing wrong with them if they're backed by a proper line pressure.

A low stall single would be alright for 400crank and 7-10k. Discuss this with your vb builder so you are on the same page.

[irish power mad]

Defiantly get a master kit and whatever you do get a low stall converter, massive help getting going and big improvement in mpg's.A good single disc should do although a triple would be better.Also Raybestos and Borg Warner friction discs are better for dd and towing at least thats my opinion.