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i have done my front wheel bearings twice.. i bought what i thought were semi american made ones for $210 ea. Two days later grease slung all over so i took those back off and spent around $350 ea for american made ones. Timken bearings i think it said. got about 55k on them now. no problems. Chinese knockoffs had timkin bearings..lol bastards. i didn't read it close enough. I bought the socket for the front axle nut on Amazon.com. think it was $20. Used a 3/4" impact to take nut off.. it's a bugger. did brake discs while i was there since they are on the back of the hub. i use heavy duty pads but the ones with the least amount of metal in them. try to save the rotor.. pads are easy to swap.. rotors pain in the azz plus the petal pressure to operate them is less than the other ones.
I just ordered this timken for my 99 from fleabay. Close to $30 less than anyone else and free shipping. Feedback is very very good for this seller so I went with it. 150K miles on my truck and I suspect the old ones are original. I was getting a popping noise around turns I was trying to track down and then driving home heard a tick tick tick/click click click type noise and jacked it up and found a ton of play in the bearing/hub so it sits parked till the new one shows up.
I use SKF hubs and bearings. Use Spicer ball joints (affordable and durable)....I also use Spicer u-joints; Moog's wear out way faster. ALSO, pretty sure timken is SKF so you did well. Lots of good stuff here for your next purchase: RockAuto Parts Catalog
Good luck buddy
__________________ 2002 2500 Sport 534/1170 Sold 1991 RCLB Toyota 4x4, 5spd, BFGs, 22re 2005 Subaru Impreza STI
The Following User Says Thank You to BC-12Valve For This Useful Post:
I have a 2001 4x4 with what looks like stock bearings. They were rough when I did a brake job about 20k ago. I drilled the hub and pumped it up with synthetic bearing grease. It really does not need a ton. What ever bearing you get make sure you drill and grease them yourself. They advertise is as a sealed unit but that is so they control the amount of grease that is in it. They put just enough grease in so it starts making noise right after the warranty goes out. I have had no more noise and zero problems. I have started to do this to all the sealed unit bearing on all my vehicles. Unit bearings are made for speed of assembly and so the OEM can push the less maintenance of modern trucks. This cost you more in the long run. Give it a try with your current bearings. What do you have to loose. As long as the hub is not loose that is.
2001 Quad Cab Long bed, 24v Auto 4x4
FASS lift pump,Edge EZ
The Following User Says Thank You to mcyclonegt For This Useful Post:
the moog problem solver line is supposed to be of much better quality than their regular line. i just put a set of the problem solver ball joints in last weekend and i cant yet attest to their durability over time, they certainly looked like a quality product out of the box compared to the crap stockers i had on there.
2000 2500 QCSB. Kore Recon, Carli Control Arms, DT Tracbar. 35x12.5r17 Cepek FCII on 3rd gen wheels. Goerend Built Tranny, Banks Stinger Kit w/ hi ram elbow, afe stage 2 CAI, BD 100 Inj., Fass 150,. PSC Stage III Steering Kit, Rock Solid Ram Steering Fix
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