Clutch master cylinder bleeding - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 04:15 PM Thread Starter
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Clutch master cylinder bleeding

Recently i had to replace my clutch master cylinder since the guy i bought it from jerry rigged it, i got one from advanced autoparts for my valair dual disk clutch and i cant seem to get this thing to bleed, can yall give me some direction? Thanks

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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 05:09 PM
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you have to remove both units. go to Mopar1973Man and find instructions on the PIA procedure. I recomend replace as complete pre bleed assy for this reason. Mopar1973Man can do the job behind his back however. We tease each about best procedure. My additional reasoning is the other part will probablly go bad in next 3 months.....

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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 05:13 PM
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Originally Posted by dozer12216 View Post
you have to remove both units. go to Mopar1973Man and find instructions on the PIA procedure. I recomend replace as complete pre bleed assy for this reason. Mopar1973Man can do the job behind his back however. We tease each about best procedure. My additional reasoning is the other part will probablly go bad in next 3 months.....
So this is MoparMan's write up have fun and good luck.

Mopar1973Man's Dodge Cummins Articles - Hydraulic Clutch Master And Slave Cylinders Replacement

01 2500 5.9 QCLB 4X4 5 Spd, Valair DD Organic, Power Puck, 289K miles ISSPRO Gauges FP, Pyro,& Boost. "A" Pillar, FASS DDRP-02, BIG Line Kit, 18 PSI, 3.55's, Kool Vue Tow mirrors, Bilstien 5100's, Pacbrake, Puke bottle deleted.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-28-2011, 06:20 PM
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Long before I knew Mopar Man and Cummins forum I did the same as you. Mine blew and I replace at work one afternoon. I spent a couple hours pumping the clutch pedal before I could get it in gear and spent the whole drive home pumping at every light and stop sign. It did get better every time but still took almost a week before it returned to normal. So you can do it on the truck but it is a pita. that was 2.5 years ago and it is still working fine. I have since replaced the slave, but it came with a bleeder screw.

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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 11:25 AM Thread Starter
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Well do u think itd be worth going out and buying a new slave? Its at the shop and there closed this week guess ill call monday and tell them about mopars write up or if yall think itd be worth getting a new slave

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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 11:37 AM
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My oe slave was still working when I changed my tranny 4 months ago. But i changed for peace of mind. You are going to have it off anyway and the slave is not that much more money.

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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 11:38 AM
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Well do u think itd be worth going out and buying a new slave? Its at the shop and there closed this week guess ill call monday and tell them about mopars write up or if yall think itd be worth getting a new slave

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If you are paying a shop, replace the entire sealed unit, labor is going to eat you up.

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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 12:19 PM Thread Starter
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I know the guy personally and he dont charge me much, he told me hed drop my fuel tank and fix my sending unit for 70 dollars with me buying parts of course and that definitley aint bad for labor lol, but anyways i called down to advanced about getting a slave cylinder with a bleeder valve and they disnt have any, any idea where to get one? He said best thing to do is take slave off and just keep pumping the clutch till all the air comes out but thatll take a long time

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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dozer12216 View Post
you have to remove both units. go to Mopar1973Man and find instructions on the PIA procedure. I recomend replace as complete pre bleed assy for this reason. Mopar1973Man can do the job behind his back however. We tease each about best procedure. My additional reasoning is the other part will probablly go bad in next 3 months.....
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Originally Posted by rhagfo View Post


Thanks guy... I'm going to have to agree with Dozer its best to replace both master and slave units together. As ofr buy a pre-bleed system you don't have too but if its cheaper go for it. But here local in Idaho they don't exist... So that why I'm a pro and seperate units and bleeding the system down.

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 12:36 PM
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Since you are going to have the system out you do not need a bleeder screw on the slave. I am pretty sure Mopars article covers it without the bleeder screw.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 12:52 PM Thread Starter
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About replacing both of them, its not that my master cylinder went bad, i yave to replace it becauae the guy i bought it from had it jerry rigged mounted on the firewall, and because of the force it requires to push my clutch in it finally broke his method if how it was attached to the firewall and the whole assembly moves, do i still need to replace the slave since mh master iant actually bad?

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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 12-30-2011, 02:28 PM
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It might last 2 weeks or 2 years it is hard to say. my slave was still working over 2 years after the master went out. i just changed mine because i had it off and it was almost 10years old.

2002 2500 QCLB HO 6 speed 4" exhaust turbo back banks e brake AD II 165 rv275 BHAF Edge Comp
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