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98.5-02 PowertrainDiscussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .
I presume you are not getting a check engine light, and have seen no fault codes.
The first step in a 24 valve that is experiencing the dead pedal syndrome is to do the APPS reset procedure. This teaches the fly-by-wire accelerator pedal position sensor to reset to a zero position and syncronize with the ECM.
1. Set your parking brake.
2. Disconnect negative battery cables on both batteries, then turn on the ignition key and turn on your lights to kill the charge in the air bag and charging system capacitors. As an alternative you can let the truck set with the batteries disconnected for 30 minutes, but is not necessary if you do the above.
3. Switch ignition to the off position, and turn off the light switch.
4. Reconnect both negative battery cables.
5. Turn ignition key to run position (not start) and depress accelerator pedal slowly all the way to the floor - take 5 seconds to do this, so go slow.
6 Return the accelerator to the off, or top, position very slowly - take another 5 seconds.
7. Turn ignition key to OFF
8. Release the parking brake, and the ECM has now relearned the zero and wide open positions of the accelerator pedal.
If this does not solve the problem, you will need to check your fuel supply pressure and make sure it is within the parameters.
Also, check the connectors for the MAP sensor and the IAT sensor.
If you are getting a check engine light and have fault codes, get the system scanned and read both the codes and any companion codes. Those codes are pretty good at pointing you in the right direction. Generally speaking, when the check engine light and fault codes are present the problem is usually either the transfer pump or the VP44 injection pump.
The Following 2 Users Say Thank You to Oregonpharmer For This Useful Post:
Yep, mine was doing that when the VP was dying. Drove from Louisiana to Wisconsin like that. It was amazing that the VP made it all those miles like that. It got worse and worse the whole trip.
Ended up being a dead lift pump causing the VP to die. Same old VP-44 story.
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I have a 2001 dodge 3/4 truck 4X4. and having the same problem. The first Dealer replaced the lift pump and cleaned the injectors, $1900 Next person replaced the vp and fuel filter, $2400. Next I replaced the APPS sensor $480and last person replaced the lift pump $800 in the tank per service bulletin and still the same. Should I reset the APPS sensor again, its only about a year old. It worked when I replaced it for around 8 months and now it happening again. Does the sensor go bad? I replaced one of the batteries around 8 months ago, so maybe that's the problem...........NEED HELP
Welcome huwizard. The first question that comes to mind is do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If so what are the readings? Do you have a check engine light? Try turning your key on/off three times and leave it in the on position. The odometer will give you most DTCs. Write them down (if there are any) and we can help you figure it out.
Tom
No pressure guage. But the last mechanic that replaced the lift pump in the tank which was replaced last week stated that he ran the truck with code reader and no codes came up while he was driving it but he did lose power/lack of fuel. He said he checked the fuel pressure and it was fine. I'm just tried of spinning my wheel and everybody is making alot of money of me, close to $5000...........
My truck 2002 5.9L Cummins is having intermittent loss of power problems on warm days after about 1hr of driving. Checked these forums and did the key trick and got P1693 & P0216 off the odometer. No check engine light, and power comes back if i let off the gas for a second or so and then hit it again. Also when it does my boost pressure drops to 5 psi and stays there, engine continues to run but without any power. Help please....
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