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Go Back   Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum > 2nd Gen. Dodge Cummins 98.5-02 24V Forums > 98.5-02 Powertrain
98.5-02 Powertrain Discussion of components that are directly involved in the power production and all that is needed to get and keep the truck moving . Engine , Transmission Ect..NO ADVERTISING .

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Old 05-19-2011, 10:30 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Lift pump for 99 dodge

I know this topic has been talked about many times,but I'm still stuck. I have a ram 3500 flatbed with 410 gears and are looking to put some pep into it while maybe gaining a little mpg. I've looked into all the top rated lift pumps on this site and have found just as many horror stories as blessings. So what do I do? I'm not a pedal on the floor type of guy, really just looking to get a good performing diesel without shortening the life of the motor. The stacks are already installed and the intake is coming. I've read when adding a programmer it's wise to upgrade the lift pump. I've already replaced one lift pump luckily before the injector pump failed, so I'm try to avoid the dreaded injector pump death. Need your guidance>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
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Old 05-19-2011, 10:38 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Raptor 100, I love mine and I've never heard a bad word spoken about them.
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Old 05-20-2011, 02:52 AM   #3 (permalink)
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Relocate the lift pump to the frame rail just in front of your fuel tank. With a vulcan kit this will eliminate the banjo fittings. The pump will last longer since it is now pushing the fuel further than it has to draw it from the tank....and it no longer has to tolerate engine heat and vibration.
My parts store Airtex replacement pump runs 15+ lbs. at highway speed (my gauge only reads 16 lbs. and usually stays pegged). 14 lbs on long hills, and 9-10 psi WOT loaded. This is with a diablo power puck.
This same pump when mounted on the block would pull down to 4-5 psi WOT loaded. This relocation and increase in pressure/flow shows how hard the LP has to work to pull fuel from the engine compartment mounting location and the restriction of the banjo bolts.
When I first relocated my airtex pump I still had the banjo bolt on the output and it would pull down to 7 psi. I gained 2-3 psi by simply replacing the banjo bolt (which is 5/16") with the Adapter from Vulcan for the airtex pump converting to a JIC fitting with a 3/8" barb fittiing.
the factory line from the tank is a 3/8" feeding the pump, but it is a 5/16" between the pump and the filter housing through the quick connects and banjo bolts.
I see my advantage over the Raptor, air dog, fass, etc. on only a slightly modified truck in the fact that if it dies on the road I don't have to spend the night in the Bates motel while i wait on fedex to ship me a new pump. Every parts store in town carries the improved design Airtex fuel pumps.
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Old 05-20-2011, 04:10 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I second the relocation kit!!! Done my self also when I still had my stock pump. It made the stock pump last twice as long as normal (which was still just a couple of months). Since I've gotten the DDRP hooked there, we are good to go!!!

P.S. I never subscribe, so pm if you have follow up Q's
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Old 05-20-2011, 05:38 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trich27 View Post
I know this topic has been talked about many times,but I'm still stuck.

I've looked into all the top rated lift pumps on this site and have found just as many horror stories as blessings.

So what do I do?

Need your guidance>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Opinions are like elbows. You've read the posts so pick a pump. There's nothing new under the sun - especially regarding lift pumps on 10+ yr old trucks.
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Old 05-20-2011, 08:55 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Raptor 100
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Old 05-20-2011, 10:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Raptor or FASS, spend a little more now, save a lot (of money and headaches) later. The relocation is just a band aid IMHO.
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Old 05-21-2011, 08:15 PM   #8 (permalink)
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This is a pick your poison question, yes you will find a lot of threads at this LP or that LP has failed. They are mechanical devices, that is why no matter what you have for a Lift Pump you have a good Fuel Pressure gauge, so you know what your fuel system is doing.

My next step is to relocate my FASS DDRP-02 back to the fuel tank. Replaced it out side this winter in about 35 degree weather at night, didn't want to do the relocate right then.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:07 AM   #9 (permalink)
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I tried the relocation with the stock pump and that was a waste of time and money, 1 year later I was back to square one. I've had my Raptor 100 for 3 years now and haven't had the slightest problem, fuel pressure stays exactly where it's supposed to.
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Old 05-22-2011, 03:40 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Honestly even with a stock truck the dodge lift pump is not up to the task at hand. You need a good fuel pressure gauge and a good aftermarket pump. The best bang for the buck is the raptor 100. They will give you room to grow (up to about 400hp) and are a very strong little pump. I see other guys recommending a relocation kit and the fass ddrp. I am not trying to argue with anyone or hurt anyones feelings, but both are just a waste of money compared to the raptor. I dont know the cost of the relocation kit, but its not going to be a cost effective option in the long run. The fass ddrp pump is a complete waste of money imo. I think they go for somewhere around 300 bucks. For an extra 75 bucks you can get the raptor which is 5 times the pump and plus have all 1/2 inch fuel lines as well. If you read and search the site for a few minutes you will see people having nothing but problems with either of those options. Now yes I know this might just be my opinion, but 9 out of 10 people will agree with me on this one. Im just trying to save you your time, money, and the headache of doing and paying for all of this stuff twice. Keep in mind though that if you have the dealer installed in tank lift pump then you are going to have to install a drawstraw 5 with the raptor, but honestly it isnt that hard of a job. The drawstraw costs about 45 dollars extra and make your system a full 1/2. If you still have the block mounted lift pump then all you have to do with the raptor 100 is hook it right up to the stock fuel pickup. Any questions just ask bud we are all here to help. And since your going with a good reliable pump once the performance bug hits you, which it will if you so much as a power puck, then you have room to grow. These trucks really wake up and go with just a simple extra 50 hp.
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Old 05-29-2011, 11:32 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Thanks for the help, do any of you have any input on a programmer for this truck. this is a working truck not a go fast blow black smoke truck. I've gone with hypertech in all of my other trucks but in this dodge I'm not sure if that's the best way to go. Just looking to get a little more pep out of my old truck. When you have a 40ft trailer loaded with hay it's nice to know if you want it you got it.
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Old 05-30-2011, 01:08 AM   #12 (permalink)
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Best bang for your buck in my opinion (less than $200) is a Diablo Power Puck.
50 hp, 150 tq. A literal 5 minute install if you stop to open a beer during the install. It puts the power right where you want it to maintain speed when towing. A nice seat of the pants gain. A puff of black when you mash on it, then clears right up.
I would recommend a pyro but I've never seen over 1200 with 23 lbs boost and a 4" pipe. But know this. It only takes a few seconds for EGT's to climb 600 degrees and drop just as fast when you let out of it. If you tow alot of hills it's a good idea to pony up and install one, pre turbo.
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