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The only "quick disconnect" fitting you should be using is at the tank inlet. And you dont bleed the VP either. You can crack open a few injector lines at the head while cranking the engine to purge any air faster. Just dont let it start until you re-tighten them back up. But really you should just be able to bump start your Airdog a few times to get it to start. Whats the issue you're having?
'01 2500 Sport 4x4 5spd w/Fastcoolers, Mag-Hytec, EZ, 4" w/o muffler, Steering brace, aFe intake, 2 lo kit, Isspro Boost, fuel pressure, and EGT all on pillar, Westach Trans/Diff temp gauge in dash pod, Raptor 100 w/ 1/2" line, Pac Brake, Rancho 9000, 285's
Just been reading the installation manual thoroughly before doing the install tomorrow. In the past, if I had to bleed the VP after a filter change, I would do it at the banjo on the VP inlet. The Airdog II (100) has quick connect fittings/hose ends on the pump, fuel module and VP inlet now. Will crack open a few injector lines at the head as you advised to purge air (if necessary).
Early 2001 Dodge 2500 4x4 Ext Cab Long Bed, AirDog II 100, 08.5 Steering, 4 inch Stan's Exhaust, US Gear D-celerator.
If you can bleed the low pressure side succesfully, you wont need to bleed the high pressure side. Bump the starter, then if you partially engage the quick-connect(not all the way in)it will be just enough to open the piercing valve inside the coupler.This will allow for the air to come out and then you will see the fuel immedeately, Then just push it all the way in and lock the quick-connect. Or just put a screwdiver in the quick-connect, watch your eyes!
2001 cummins automatic 2500 x-tended cab , airdog 150, edge juice/w/attitude , mbrp 4'' need more to keep going
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